Question about 2004 Yamaha TDM 900

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Front brake lever spongy,not operating brake light.new ebs hh brake pads fitted.

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  • Yamaha Master
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Gravity bleed front brake. no lever pumping. Looden cap on master cylinder, front wheen straight ahead, open bleeder and watch for air being expelled. When only fluid is coming out, close bleeder. Expect the front pads totake a few miles to seat, They will improve as they wear in. Good Luck / be safe.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • John P Schwantes Jr Dec 26, 2010

    The best way to bleed any motorcycle break, is to install a hose that fits tightly on the bleeder bolt thats long enough tosubmerse in the fluild of the master cyclinder. pump the brake with the bleeder open untill the fluild pumps without any bubbles, ( you may have to add fluild as this happens). Why not change the fluild while your at it. if it has two calipers do one at a time and go back tot he first one. The break fluild should be changed once a year anyway. If you need to bleed it it may have a leak or the break pads are worn all the way down. The hoses all will expand some but as they get older they do it more. If the break seems to come on rigtht away but is still not frim after bleeding you may have to change the hoses. while [um[ing the break look at the caliper ( is it moveing?, bending to the side? rotor flexing ) the mountings of thest parts sometimes ( per design ) have sliders that can get stuck or melted. These parts may need to betaken apart and freed up and if ridin for awhile with a problem like this the brake pads may be wore on an angle and need to be replaced. Brake rotors can get out of shape too and push the brake pads away from the rotor making a delayed pumpup before the break comes on. This effect might not happen if the brake is worked without moving the bike. All of this is true for cars or anything that has a brake on it.

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Change front brake pads, 2002 FXD


For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brakepads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s).

May 13, 2014 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

XJR 1300 front brake spongy, no air in the system and new braided hoses fitted.


Hi, Anonymous I would try pressure bleeding before rebuilding the master cylinder for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/knowledge-base/brakes/Causes_of_a_low_brake_pedal
Bleeding Your Brakes Dr Dirt Wrenching Tips
Yamaha XJR1300 2007 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha XJR1300 Owner Manual

Nov 13, 2013 | 2002 Yamaha XJR 1300

2 Answers

Replaced front brake pads on my 2007 vtx1300r. now front lever is spongy. bled brakes quite a few times. still spongy. what went wrong. replaced the rear but had no issues.


The brakes must be trimmed to set closer as possible without the pads rubbing the caliper so that there is least movement of the piston when the hydraulics works.
So even if the system is bled and there is no air lock on the system , it is important to set the levers closer to the pads. So use the adjustment of the assembly so as to keep it closer to the pad.
Hence when the brakes are applied there will be immediate tightness to the lever as the pads close contact with the pads and hold on.
So I suggest that since you have overhauled the brakes and changed the pads this must be reset.

Feb 18, 2011 | 2004 Honda VTX 1300 Retro

1 Answer

Rear brake light not working


The brake light is turned on and off by either of two switches on your bike. The front brake lever has a switch located in the right handlebar switch housing. When you squeeze the lever, a pad on the lever moves forward allowing the switch button to move forward making contact which in turn switches the brake light on.

The rear brake lever operates a plunger inside the rear brake master cylinder that pressurizes the rear brake and rear brake hose and line. The rear brake line has a tee fitting in it along it's run with a pressure switch in the tee. Once the pressure on the line gets high enough, the switch turns on the brake light.

If your rear brake light switch is not working, check to make sure the wires are on the prongs of the switch. If they are, replace the switch. It simply screws out and a new one screws in. Most of the time you don't have to bleed the brakes as long as you don't move the rear brake pedal with the switch out. Check the rear brake for proper operation prior to riding the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 17, 2010 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

1 Answer

Suzuki GSX 600 F (1998) soft front brake, I have upgraded to braided hoses but brake lever still feels spongy, can I upgrade the master cylinder or do I have to accept them as they are?


you can renew the master cylinder seals, the calipar seals can also cause the lever to feel spongy, they grip the pistons and pull them too far back into the bores instead of letting them return just enough to realease the brake, in this condition when you apply the brake most of the lever travel is just pushing the calipar pistons out to reach the pads and the little travel that is left is pushing the pads on to the disc, hense the spongy feel

Jun 12, 2010 | 1998 Suzuki GSX 600 F (Katana)

1 Answer

Spongy Front brakes, braided hoses fitted direct to each caliper from master cylinder, also replaced brake master cylinder seals, bleed them to death, to remove air, pressure remains constant at brake...


try using a line locker close to master cyclinder ,lever should go rock hard if it has no air in system,work line locker down lines to see if lever stays hard.
also check the lever travel to make sure that lever is pushing on master cyclinder plunger as a lot of after market levers dont have correct casting and have to travel in a long way before brakes work even when system is bled. also check to make sure calliper carriers are not bent and pads not sitting square on rotors.
hope this helps

Apr 19, 2010 | 1990 kawasaki ZZR 1100

2 Answers

I changed the front pads on my 97 Sebring convertible. Also put on new rotors, and changed the calipers. My car bounces slightly, and if I apply the brakes hard, they become spongy. I have bled them off as...


Spongy means air present in the hydraulic system,I recommend check and recheck all of the brake system areas where air could enter(master cylinder,fittings,calipers,etc.)and bleed the entire system again.
Good luck !

Feb 02, 2010 | 1997 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Hard brake lever after new tyre fitted


have uchecked the pads are sitting properly and is itcable or hydrolic cable mght be bent

Oct 05, 2009 | 2006 Triumph Sprint ST

1 Answer

Front brake lever is very hard/solid when i


I am thinking that you need to change the fluid and replace the brake pads. Over time brake fluid attracts water and it states in the manual that brake fluid should be changed. I change fluid in mine every other year.

Oct 01, 2009 | 1982 Honda GL 400

1 Answer

Too much brake lever travel


Hi
I also have this on my 2003 SV1000S and have now overhauled the entire system changed all the caliper seals and fitted a new master cylinder kit and used new silkolene Dot 4 fluid. The brakes are very powerful now with no spongy feel on the lever but still to much movement to the bite point. Also the lever is too near the grip even on the max adjustment.
As everything is now perfect the only solution now is to pack the lever (3-positions)to reduce the movement and move it back from the grip when brakes applied (dont forget to pack the brake light switch). Care to be taken that there is enough retraction of the caliper pistons to allow the disc to run free and that the master piston seal retracts enough to allow the fluid to be pushed back into the reservoir. A very thin shim required.
Regards Bobdabiker

Apr 07, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki SV 1000

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