Question about 1994 Suzuki RF 600 R

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Rf has race can K&N and dyno jet fitted when i got it, but terrible flat spots all over the place. can you give me a clue what size of main jet to use

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No one can tell you what jet size to use unless they know exactly what exhaust and jets you have now. The best thing for you to do is go back to a known good configuration. If it has never run right since you had it, go back to stock (make sure it runs right with stock settings now!) and start your adjustments from there. Change one thing at a time and do performance testing between each change. Dyno runs are best, but timed runs might work too, depending on your application.

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Gtr 1000 losing power I have to keep changing down gears to get top end back up I have stage 3 jet kit and separate aftermarket air filters could this be a vacuum problem?


go back to basics with the carby/s
they are designed to give top performance at all rpms and torque settings for the engine
accordingly the jet sizing has been carefully set to give that performance
if you alter that sizing believing that bigger jets means more power , then you are altering the air/fuel ratio
it is all well and good if you have fitted a real lumpy cam as that gets extra air for the bigger jets
if you want better power at top end then spend a dollar in a bike shop that has a dyno so that the jets sizes can be selected and tested in a running engine under load

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Hi , I fitted a race exhaust on my x8r-s , and wanted to put a bigger main jet on it ... the problem is : I'm not sure which number it is right now , cause it looks like a 68 one way , but also 88 if you...


dont Change the you need to Change your afr air fuel mix to work with the new pipe changing the main will be to much of a change but first see how it rides but if your doing it for more power or speed the best size main jet is the right one ether the one from the dealer if in your area or u need to find the right one for your area

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I have a stock 1989 600xr. I have noticed tha it has a flat spot in the carberation from off idle to full throttle. If I put the choke on this goes away. Temp is around 80 and alltitude is 4000 feet. I...


They often had a flat spot from new, once the restricters were removed.
and there was a performance jet kit at the time.
Stock would mean it has a very restrictive end cap in the muffler, it may not still be there after 20 years, most were removed in the first few days.

you could try raising the needle a notch or two, then maybe a larger main jet.

Make sure it has a good air cleaner first.
Take notes about changes made and improvements.
adjust one thing at a time
dyno jet will have a kit I imagine.

Jun 27, 2010 | 1989 Honda XR 600 R

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We have changed a few bikes from standard pipes to drag pipes. Their is a few considerations here, sea level or at what altitude, how much back pressure. so my suggestion rather take it before fitting the pipes to someone with a dyno, run and record the test, then have the pipes fitted, and let the same shop to the test again on there dyno, they will then know what to do with the jetting, because you should achieve better results with your new pipes.

Jun 15, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha XVS 1100 Dragstar Classic

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No problem, I have a question


THE number should be stamped on the jet if not you can have it sized by contacting summit racing and give them your carb number and they can tell you what was in it from new.

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Fouling plugs


This can be caused by all sorts of things.There is no real order of probability so I'll just list them.Your oil/fuel ratio could be rich depending on what oil you use,your powervalve could be stuck closed(pop off the plastic cover over the actuator located at the front of the clutch cover,its held in place by 3 screws attached to the barrel,start the bike and give it a big blat on the throttle and see if the lever moves)it could have a blown crank seal(the symptom displayed by this fault is that you will be using gearbox oil),the expansion chamber could be carboned up,or the piston and/or rings could be worn.If all these things check out ok I suggest either raising the clip on the needle(which drops the needle causing the mixture to run slightly leaner) If this does not have enough effect go down one size in the main jet.Adjusting the main jet size will require you initally to very frequently remove the spark plug to check that you haven't gone too lean. The plug should not be wet and oily,the perfect colour is a tan colour and not wet.I must stress that jetting a 2 stroke if you lack experience can be tricky in that if you go too lean you can seize the engine so if you do reduce the size of your main jet frequent initall inspections of the plug is highly recommended.As a final note,if you are using a standard plug and not a racing plug(ie gold paladnium or irridium)thay are inherently more susseptable to fouling & changing to a "racing plug" may help to reduce your plug fouling.Hope this was helpfull

Nov 22, 2009 | Yamaha YZ 125 Motorcycles

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Carburation for road racing


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Oct 29, 2009 | 1993 Honda CBR 250 RR

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you dont need more gas through the valve. unless all out racing, that shouldn't be a problem. you definately need rejetting. the proper jet size can only be determined by trial and era. you need a dyno to tune properly. but of the head I would say start with 10 sizes over what you had. say if they were #120's, go with #130's. this should get you in the right direction.

Oct 20, 2009 | 1989 Suzuki GSX-R 750 K

1 Answer

Cabrurettor


1. Install a larger main jet to your standard fxr150 cabrurettor. We suggest fitting a 117.5 main jet, also remove the airbox and replace with an appropriate pod type airfilter. you will notice a gain in power and also a cool induction noise! 2. Fit a new aftermarket carb like a Keihin PE28 this is a chrome round slide carb which has the advantage over the stock carb that while still being 28mm there is no butterfly and shaft obstructing the airflow. 3. Another easy option is a GN250 carb, it’s a CV type of about 33mm, you can fit this with stock GN jetting and the engine will run GREAT and give quite a noticeable gain in power all over the rev range. 4. Try a flatslide carb from a DR200 if you can find one that is! I have one fitted to my race bike (see projects section) and i'm now looking for the best jetting options, but for now with the jetting i have made it looks to be a very promising carb for the fxr150, check back soon! 5. Honda XL250 carb, this so far has worked by far the best with my race engine and also very good with the std engine, but i did have to make a new throttle cable. For my standard road engine i used a 140mains jet, for my race engine with cams i had to drop the size and use a 130 main jet.

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