Question about 1995 Honda XR 250 R

1 Answer

Gear shifter has too much play

I pulled out the bolt by the chain sprocket(which is a 30t bolt), and was wondering if there was a spring on the end of that bolt.

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No spring on a bolt that I can see.

gear shifter has too much play - f98b18e.gif
The shift mechanism has three springs

d1f25c2.gif

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Timing jeep cherockee


double posted but this time the CAM pops up.
why not read the FSM first. ? linked below.
or alldata.com . log in and read.

here ill do a paste from JUST install PART chapter.
you are doing ALL THAT book free, REALLY?
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
  2. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
  3. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  4. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). CAUTION The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  5. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  6. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  7. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
  8. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
  9. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
  10. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
  11. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil. NOTE The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
  12. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly . After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully . Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm). NOTE It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  13. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
  14. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  15. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  16. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  17. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). NOTE Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  18. Remove all locking pins from tensioners. CAUTION After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
  19. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left and right . camshaft sprocket bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).
  20. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: ² primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock ² primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock ² secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock ² counter balancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot.
  21. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
  22. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must be within mm 0.004-0.010 inches (0.10-0.25). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  23. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper.
  24. Install cylinder head covers. NOTE Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  25. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
  26. Install the oil fill housing.
  27. Install access plug in left cylinder head.
  28. Install power steering pump.
  29. Fill cooling system.
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.

Dec 07, 2014 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

Tip

Drive Hub, Spring Pulley & Chain Replacement for Steppers


Video about the Drive Hub Replacement Procedure for Stairmaster Steppers

  • This videocovers replacing the spring pulley, the step chain and the drive hub assembly on the Stairmaster steppers
  • Tools needed:
    • Snap Ring Pliers
    • Tip Kit for Snap Ring Pliers
    • Socket Wrench
    • 7/16" Socket
    • 7/16" Wrench
    • Needle Nose or Standard Pliers
    • Safety Goggles
  • Begin by disconnecting the spring
  • Do this by pulling up on the spring and unhooking the spring from the frame post
  • Next, using the snap ring pliers and proper tips, remove the snap ring from the spring pulley shaft
    **Important: Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with snap rings**
  • Remove and inspect the spring pulley for any flat spots replacing the pulley if necessary
    • Flat spots develop over time and can result in roughness in the pedals
  • On the side that the pulley was just removed, slowly press the pedal down
  • Remove the step chain retainer brackets (if equipped) using the 7/16" wrench, 7/16" socket and socket wrench
  • Once the retainer bracket is removed, the spring can be lifted up over the drive sprocket and disconnected from the chain
    • The spring is opened at one end to allow for maneuvering over the link
  • Using the standard or needle nose pliers, remove the master link attaching the step chain to the pedal arm
    • Place one jaw of the pliers against the open end of the clip (if installed correctly, the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of chain travel) and the other jaw of the pliers against the far side of the nearest rivet coming through the keeper link; and squeeze pliers together
    • This should pop the clip free allowing you to remove it from the master link
    • Next remove the link bar
    • Finally remove the master link disconnecting the chain from the pedal arm
  • Inspect the new step chain making sure all the chain links flex
    • Manufacturer recommends lubricating the step chain with 30W motor oil using a clean rag to remove any excess
  • Attach the new step chain to the pedal arm reversing the steps taken to disconnect the chain
  • Relieve tension on the opposite spring by lifting up on the spring and unhooking it from the frame post
  • Slowly press the pedal down
  • Feed the spring around the pulley and lift the chain up over the sprocket to move it out of the way
  • Disconnect the remaining two bolts from the drive hub assembly
  • Lift the drive chain over the sprocket and pull the drive hub from the frame
    • As the drive hub assembly starts to develop problems, you may feel clicking, hear some grinding sounds, or a pedal may stick in one position (which usually happens on one side); All of which are indicators of a worn drive hub assembly
    • The drive hub can be replaced as a complete unit
      • The drive hub consists of (3) sprockets
        • Two one way clutch sprockets that drive in one direction and slip in the opposite direction which are for the step chains
        • A larger sprocket that spins either direction and is for the drive chain
    • An inspection of the drive hub can help determine need for replacement
          • If either of the one way clutch sprockets slip in both directions, they need replaced
          • If there is a catch in any of the sprockets in any position, then it likely needs replaced
  • Reinstall the drive hub the same way it was removed
  • Slip the drive chain over the drive sprocket before mounting the hub assembly to the frame
    • The drive hub assembly on the SC916 stepper only has 4 bolt positions. The drive hub assembly on the 4400 and 4600 steppers has bolt holes all around the hub allowing the hub to be rotated for chain tension adjustment. The SC916 stepper has a preset tension and the adjustment is no longer necessary
  • Once the drive hub is bolted to the frame, reinstall the step chains on each side
  • Place the free end of the step chain (opposite the pedal arm connection) up over the step chain sprocket
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull down on the step chain
  • Place a hand on the sprocket keeping the step chain from feeding back and allowing the pedal to drop
  • Grab the spring with your opposite hand and join the spring to the step chain
  • Once the spring is attached to the chain, press the pedal down again
  • Reinstall the spring pulley and the snap ring onto the pulley shaft
  • Lift up on the pedal and pull the spring to route through the pulley, hooking the spring onto its frame post
  • Repeat these steps to attach the step chain and spring on the opposite side
  • Reinstall the step chain brackets (if equipped) making sure all bolts face the same direction
  • This concludes the video demonstration of replacing the drive hub, spring pulley and chains on the Stairmaster steppers

Spring Pulley Chain Drive Hub Replacement Video for Stairmaster Stepper...

on Feb 25, 2015 | Stairmaster Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

73 sporty won't shift


The old Ironhead Sportster were notorious for breaking the shifter shaft. It's got a ball on the end of a lever like piece and it's bad about breaking. But, there are other things that could be wrong. You could have a broken shifter pawl spring as well. In this case, it usually shifts all the way one way then won't go the other way. You'll just have to pull the transmission out to find out for sure. To get the transmission out, you must take the engine sprocket, primary chain, and clutch assembly off. Then remove the front final drive chain sprocket. Take the four bolts out of the transmission "trapdoor" and pry it off. The transmission comes out with the door. This a not a real difficult job but I would suggest the purchase of a service manual for the bike. There is a lot of information that you'll need, much too much for me to type in here. Also, the old saying "A picture is worth a thousand words" applies in this case.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 09, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLS 1000 Motorcycles

2 Answers

2001 chev cavalier timming chain diagram


Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned 91113p63.jpg
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2) 91113p58.jpg
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt 91113p59.jpg
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . . 91113p60.jpg
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly 91113p61.jpg
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position 91113p62.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the front cover as previously detailed.
  3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke so that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (see illustration).
  4. Loosen the timing chain tensioner nut as far as possible without actually removing it.
  5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and remove the sprocket and chain together. If the sprocket does not slide from the camshaft easily, a light blow with a soft mallet at the lower edge of the sprocket will dislodge it.
  6. Using a suitable gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket. To install:
  7. Press the crankshaft sprocket back onto the crankshaft.
  8. Install the timing chain over the camshaft sprocket and then around the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that the marks on the two sprockets are in alignment (see illustration). Lubricate the thrust surface with Molykote® or its equivalent.
  9. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the sprocket and then install the sprocket onto the camshaft. Use the mounting bolts to draw the sprocket onto the camshaft and then tighten to 66-68 ft. lbs. (91-95 Nm).
  10. Lubricate the timing chain with clean engine oil. Tighten the chain tensioner.
  11. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine 87953107.gif

Nov 11, 2010 | Chevrolet Cavalier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I had to take off the rear weel of my falcon apache mountain bike to get it in my car o travel from my grandparens home to mine but i cant get the back weel gear arm back on. how do i do this??


By the "gear arm" I assume you mean that part of the rear derailer that the chain zig-zags through. This arm moves in two ways. It moves in and out (toward the wheel and away) as you move the shift lever - which is how it changes gears, by moving the chain onto different sprockets (gears). It also moves forward and back (toward the front and back of the bike) under spring pressure. This forward and back motion is necessary to take up the slack in the chain when you are using the smaller sprockets (the smaller the sprocket, the "higher" the gear). When the wheel has been removed, this arm moves forward (under spring pressure) as far as it can to take up all of the slack in the chain. All you have to do is grasp this lever and pull it toward the back of the bike, allowing the lever and the chain to pass behind the sprockets (gears) as you pull the wheel back into it's position. You can safely pull this arm forward and back at any time without doing any damage. One more tip-- I find it a little easier if you first put the shift lever in a "middle" gear position. Then when you pull the wheel into place, you should aim to put the chain on a middle sprocket. You don't have to hit the exact correct sprocket as you can simply lift the rear wheel and turn the pedals forward (after installing the wheel) and the chain will move to the correct sprocket corresponding to the setting on the shift lever.
Good luck! Please vote if you found this helpful. Al K

Oct 14, 2010 | Falcon Cycling

1 Answer

Where should timing gears aline on a 1998 pontiac sunfire need pictuure


Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned 91113p63.jpg
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2) 91113p58.jpg
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt 91113p59.jpg
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . . 91113p60.jpg
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly 91113p61.jpg
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position 91113p62.jpg
  1. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine 87953107.gif
2.3L and 2.4L Engines .
  1. Fig. 8: The chain must be in the "timed'' position - 2.3L and 2.4L engines 87953108.gif
    Fig. 9: Remove the timing chain guides 87953109.gif

  2. .
  3. Fig. 10: Timing chain assembly retaining bolts - 2.3L and 2.4L engines 87953111.gif

  4. .
    1. Fig. 11: Reloading the tensioner to its "ZERO'' position, then install to the chain housing 87953110.gif

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Oct 08, 2010 | 1998 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

What is the position for the timing chain gears.


Timing Chain and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.3L and 2.4L Engines The following tools will be required to perform this procedure:
  • Camshaft sprocket timing alignment pins - J 36008 or equivalent
  • Camshaft sprocket wrench - J 39579 or equivalent
  1. Fig. 1: View of the DOHC engine "timed position'' - 2.3L and 2.4L engines 86883175.gif
    Fig. 2: View of the SOHC engine "timed position'' - 2.3L engine 86883176.gif
  2. Remove the timing chain guides. There are usually three.
  3. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle.
  4. Make sure all of the slack is above the tensioner. Gently pry off timing chain tensioner spring retainer, then remove the spring. NOTE: On the 2.3L engine two styles of tensioners are used. Early production engines will have a spring post and late production ones will not. Both styles are identical in operation and are interchangeable.
  5. Remove the timing chain tensioner shoe retainer.
  6. Make sure all the slack in the timing chain is above the tensioner assembly; remove the chain tensioner shoe. The timing chain must be disengaged from the wear grooves in the tensioner shoe in order to remove the shoe. Slide a suitable small prybar under the timing chain while pulling shoe outward.
  7. If difficulty is encountered while removing chain tensioner shoe, proceed as follows:
    1. Lower the vehicle.
    2. Hold the intake camshaft sprocket with a camshaft sprocket wrench - J 39579 or equivalent holding tool and remove the sprocket bolt and washer.
    3. Remove the washer from the bolt and re-thread the bolt back into the camshaft by hand. The bolt provides a surface to push against.
    4. Remove intake camshaft sprocket using a 3-jaw puller in the 3 relief holes in the sprocket. NOTE: Do NOT try to pry the sprocket off the camshaft or damage to the sprocket or chain housing could occur.
  8. Unfasten the tensioner assembly attaching bolts, then remove the tensioner. CAUTION
    The tensioner piston is spring loaded and could fly out causing personal injury. Use care when removing.
  9. Matchmark the timing chain outer surface for reassembly purposes.
  10. If equipped, remove the chain housing to block stud, which is actually the timing chain tensioner shoe pivot.
  11. Remove the timing chain.
  12. Inspect the parts for wear, then replace if necessary. Some scoring of the timing chain shoe and guides is normal. Clean the old sealant off of the bolt with a wire brush. Clean the threaded hole in the camshaft with a round nylon bristle brush. To install: WARNING
    Failure to following installation procedures can result in severe engine damage.
  13. Install the intake camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft with the marked surface showing. Install the sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Use an adhesive compound 12345493 or equivalent on the bolt. Tighten the bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm), while holding the sprocket with tool J-36013, J 39579 or equivalent, if removed.
  14. Install tool J 36800 or equivalent, through hole(s) in the camshaft sprocket(s) into the holes in the timing chain housing. This positions the camshafts for correct timing. Fig. 3: Placing the camshaft sprockets onto the marked surface of the camshaft 91063g30.gif
  15. If the camshafts are out of position and must be rotated more than 1?8 turn in order to install the alignment dowel pins:
    1. The crankshaft must be rotated 90°clockwise off of TDC in order to give the valves adequate clearance to open.
    2. Once the camshafts are in position and the dowels installed, rotate the crankshaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE back to TDC. NOTE: Do NOT rotate the crankshaft clockwise to TDC, or valve and piston damage could occur. WARNING
      The side of the timing chain that was marked must be facing outward when installed.
  16. For DOHC engines only, install the timing chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket, around the idler sprocket and around the crankshaft sprocket.
  17. Remove the alignment dowel pin from the intake (DOHC only) camshaft. Using dowel pin remover tool J 39579 or equivalent, rotate the intake (DOHC only) camshaft sprocket counterclockwise enough to slide the timing chain over the intake (DOHC only) camshaft sprocket. Release the camshaft sprocket wrench. The length of chain between the two camshaft sprockets will tighten. If properly timed, the intake camshaft alignment dowel pin should slide in easily. If the dowel pin does not fully index, the camshafts are not timed correctly and the procedure must be repeated. Fig. 4: Place the timing chain over the exhaust camshaft and around the idler sprocket and around the crankshaft sprocketDOHC engines 91063g31.gif
  18. Leave the alignment dowel pins installed.
  19. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  20. With slack removed from chain between intake camshaft sprocket (camshaft sprocket for SOHC engines) and crankshaft sprocket, the timing marks on the crankshaft and the cylinder block should be aligned. If marks are not aligned, move the chain one tooth forward or rearward, remove the slack and recheck the marks.
  21. If equipped, tighten the chain housing to block stud. The stud is installed under the timing chain. Tighten to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  22. For vehicles through 1991, reload timing chain tensioner assembly to its "zero'' position as follows:
    1. Assemble restraint cylinder, spring and nylon plug into plunger. Index slot in restraint cylinder with peg in plunger. While rotating the restraint cylinder clockwise, push the restraint cylinder into the plunger until it bottoms. Keep rotating the restraint cylinder clockwise but allow the spring to push it out of the plunger. The pin in the plunger will lock the restraint in the loaded position.
    2. Install tool J-36589 or equivalent, onto plunger assembly.
    3. Install plunger assembly into tensioner body with the long end toward the crankshaft when installed.
  23. For 1992-98 vehicles, reload timing chain tensioner assembly to its "zero'' position as follows:
    1. Form a keeper from a piece of heavy gauge wire. See the accompanying figure.
    2. Apply slight force on the tensioner blade to compress the plunger.
    3. Insert a small prybar into the reset access hole, then pry the racket pawl away from the ratchet teeth while forcing the plunger completely in the hole.
    4. Install the keeper between the access hole and the blade. Fig. 5: View of reloading the timing chain tensioner assembly to its "zero'' position - 1992-98 vehicles 86883177.gif
  24. Install the tensioner assembly to the chain housing. Recheck the plunger assembly installation. It is correctly installed when the long end is toward the crankshaft.
  25. Install and tighten timing chain tensioner bolts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  26. Install the tensioner shoe and tensioner shoe retainer. Remove the special tool J-36589, then squeeze the plunger assembly into the tensioner body to unload the plunger assembly.
  27. Lower vehicle enough to reach and remove the alignment dowel pins.
  28. Rotate crankshaft clockwise (normal rotation) two full rotations. Align the crankshaft keyway with the mark on the cylinder block, then reinstall the alignment dowel pins. The pins will slide in easily if the engine is timed correctly. WARNING
    If the engine is not correctly timed, severe engine damage could occur.
  29. Install the timing chain guides and, if equipped, the crankshaft oil slinger.
  30. Install the timing chain front cover. For details, please refer to the procedure located in this section.
  31. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Oct 07, 2010 | 1998 Buick Skylark

1 Answer

How do you set the timing chain for a 2000 cavalier?


Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2.2L Engine Fig. 1: The timing marks on the sprockets should be in alignment. If not, turn the crankshaft until the marks are aligned 91113p63.jpg
Fig. 2: The timing chain tensioner is retained by a Torx head bolt (1) and a regular hex head bolt (2) 91113p58.jpg
Fig. 3: Unfasten the camshaft sprocket bolt 91113p59.jpg
Fig. 4: Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain at the same time . . . 91113p60.jpg
Fig. 5: . . . then remove the tensioner assembly 91113p61.jpg
Fig. 6: Compress the tensioner spring and insert a cotter pin or nail in the hole provided to hold the tensioner in position 91113p62.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the front cover as previously detailed.
  3. Place the No. 1 piston at TDC of the compression stroke so that the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (see illustration).
  4. Loosen the timing chain tensioner nut as far as possible without actually removing it.
  5. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and remove the sprocket and chain together. If the sprocket does not slide from the camshaft easily, a light blow with a soft mallet at the lower edge of the sprocket will dislodge it.
  6. Using a suitable gear puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket. To install:
  7. Press the crankshaft sprocket back onto the crankshaft.
  8. Install the timing chain over the camshaft sprocket and then around the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure that the marks on the two sprockets are in alignment (see illustration). Lubricate the thrust surface with Molykote® or its equivalent.
  9. Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the sprocket and then install the sprocket onto the camshaft. Use the mounting bolts to draw the sprocket onto the camshaft and then tighten to 66-68 ft. lbs. (91-95 Nm).
  10. Lubricate the timing chain with clean engine oil. Tighten the chain tensioner.
  11. Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the timing chain and sprockets - 2.2L OHV engine 87953107.gif
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Oct 03, 2010 | Mr Gasket Timing Cover Chevrolet El Camino...

1 Answer

HANGS BETWEEN GEARS, MANIPULATE THE SHIFTER UP AND


Sounds like you have some shifter pawl problems. If you remove your outer primary cover, you can see the shifter pawl just behind your clutch assembly. The problem could be the shifter pawls, the springs, or the carrier. You'll just have to go in there to find out exactly what it is.

To get the outer cover off, first loosen the primary chain tensioner beneath the primary cover. Then remove the large round cover from the outer primary cover. Beneath the cover is a spring with a locknut over the clutch adjuster. Drain the oil out of the primary and remove all the bolts around the primary including the left side foot rest and the nut at the front. Slide the outer primary cover off as you turn the clutch adjuster clockwise.

With cover off, you may can see the problem with the shifter pawl but I'm afraid that you're going to have to pull the engine drive sprocket and the clutch assembly off to repair it. To do this, you need an air wrench to remove the front sprocket nut and the clutch assembly nut. The clutch assembly nut is left handed threads. Take the snap ring out of the center of the clutch assembly and remove the clutch adjuster plate.

When reassembling the primary, torque the engine nut to 150-165 Foot pounds, the clutch nut torque is 70-80 foot pounds left handed, adjust the primary chain to 3/8 to 1/2" up and down with the engine cold. Check the primary chain adjustment thorough the upper inspection hole on the outer primary cover. I highly suggest you purchase a service manual to refer to if you decide to do this job. If you do it yourself, the book will pay for itself with this one job. Otherwise, this is a pretty advanced job and you might be better off taking to an experience mechanic.

Apr 01, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...

2 Answers

Timing on 4.7 help


INSTALLATION
  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin (Resetting Secondary Chain Tensioners).
  2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.). NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  5. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.).
  6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
  7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8515 to hold chains in place for installation (Installing Secondary Timing Chains on Idler Sprocket).
  8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket (Timing Chain System).
  9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
  10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly (Installing Idler Gear, Primary and Secondary Timing Chains). After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  11. Align left camshaft sprocket “L” dot to plated link on chain.
  12. Align right camshaft sprocket “R” dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  13. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the “V8” marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position (Timing Chain System). CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  16. Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).
  17. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
  18. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left (Tightening Left Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt) and right (Tightening Right Side Camshaft Sprocket Bolt). camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N·m (90 ft. lbs.).
  19. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations:
  20. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
  21. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked (Measuring Idler Gear End Play). The end play must be within 0.10–0.25 mm (0.004–0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  22. Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION) and crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION).
  23. Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  24. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  25. Install the oil fill housing.
  26. Install access plug in left cylinder head (Cylinder Head Access Plug Location).
  27. Install power steering pump (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION).
  28. Install radiator fan shroud.
  29. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.

Jul 08, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

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