Question about 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

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What ohms should the throttle positioner sensor read at original setting?

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  • branch_four Jun 29, 2009

    yes very helpfull didn't have to leave home



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To check it, you need to test the voltage on the yellow wire with the bike idling, it needs to be within .58-.78V
The resistance is variable with the throttle position.

CLICK HERE for a $48 Shop/Service manual that will have information you need.

Thanks for using FixYa!!

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

  • blueextc3221
    blueextc3221 Jun 29, 2009

    CLICK HERE for a different service manual.

    same price.

    Has all the info on your bike.



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Yamaha v star 650. With the tps sensor off the carb and not connected to anything. How many ohms should the tps sensor put out?

Hi Daniel the following information is courtesy of Road Star Clinic and written by Steve Graham
  • With the TPS cable disconnected from the bike's harness, you'll see that the wires from the TPS are Blue, Yellow, and Black. Using an Ohmmeter (the digital type is best), measure the resistance between the terminals for the Blue and Black wires. It should be between 4k ~ 6k Ohm at 68-degrees F. Temperature "IS" a factor, so you'll find it will vary some with different temps. Throttle position is NOT a factor in this measurement.
  • Measure the resistance between the Yellow and Black terminals, with the throttle closed. If it does not fall within the desired range, then by loosening the M4 screws holding the TPS to the bracket, you can rotate the TPS until it shows the correct reading on the Ohmmeter. With the right setting established, retighten the screws. So far, I've found that every TPS I've installed has needed a setting of 650 to 675-Ohm. If you measure the resistance between the Yellow and Black terminals while opening the throttle from idle to fully open, you should see a progressive change from the set point to a maximum between 4k ~ 6k-Ohm.
Not all digital ohmmeters are setup the same. Some have a multiplier on the LCD for each scale (X10, X100, X1K, and X10K), but yours may have range limits that just indicate the highest limit of each setting on the dial. With that type of ohmmeter, you'd use the 10-K or 20-K scale (whichever it comes with) while reading the blue & black wires (which just means that 10,000 or 20,000 Ohms is that scale's greatest resolution). The reading taken from the blue & black wires is the maximum resistance of the TPS and isn't effected by throttle position. When you measure the resistance between the blue and black wires you should get something in the neighborhood of 5,000 Ohms (give or take about 500). Multiply that number times the standard of .13 to .15 (I just use .14) and the result is the resistance to set the TPS position to while reading the yellow and black wires. With ohmmeters that have range limits, you'd use the 1K or 2K scale (whichever it has) to set it while connected to the yellow and black wires. The yellow and black wires show the variable resistance of the TPS depending on throttle position and what you're doing is setting the nominal resistances at idle.
Once it's set, if you open the throttle you'll see the resistance across those wires climb between 4,000 to 6,000 Ohms. When you drop the throttle back to idle, it should return to the previously set reading (plus or minus 25 Ohms). It'll vary some, so don't sweat it if it doesn't return to exactly what you set it to.
Good luck and have a nice day.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Aug 19, 2016 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer


Did you do a fuel pressure test with a fuel pressure gauge ? The throttle positioner ? ? ? ? It's TPS - throttle position sensor. I suggest you take it to a ASE certified repair shop . Or go to youtube an check out some basic diagnostic trouble shooting videos . What year , make , model vehicle do you have ? You should have a factory scan tool or at lest a professional grade one hooked up an have engine sensor data parameters looked at . If you don't know what these are , I strongly suggest you take it to a repair shop.

Dec 07, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2003 f450 v10 6.8l wont start after sitting overnight

The difficulty factor of not being there coupled with the absence of a trouble code is high...One possible cause is a defective coolant temperature sensor which is falsely telling the PCM that the temperature is too high...See diagram below location of CTS (coolant temperature sensor) disconnect connector...set ohm meter on X10 scale (you are looking to read 6000 ohms) probes on sensor leads not connector...At outdoor temp of 70-80 degrees meter must read about 5400 ohms...If it reads 1100 ohms or less sensor is defective...test two; measure from top of negative battery terminal, with meter set the same, place other lead first on bare metal of fender;READ...Then on bare metal of engine; READ...Both readings must be less than 50 ohms...If meter reads high (1000-2000) ohms you have found the fault...Install braided ground straps from - batt to chassis and block...Let me know the results of these two basic tests...

  1. Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT).
  1. Intake manifold air control valve assembly.
  1. Camshaft position sensor (CMP).



I’m happy to help further over the phone at

Jun 23, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 00 crown vic p71 is having tranny prblem, i need help asap

Wow, this is a broad question and I side with your mechanic on this one. I think a sensor is shot. There are a couple of sensors involved with your car's performance. They, in turn, interact with other sensors so that everything operates in unison. In others words, if this sensor, you can call it the kick-down sensor, if you want to, isn't reading the proper positional information from your throttle -- starting about 1998 Ford was using a great many electronic circuits and sensors for performance, rather than just mechanical systems -- then it isn't telling the ECU (electronic control unit or the vehicles "brain") the proper information. In turn, the ECU can't order other systems to fire or work in the proper sequence.

Given all of this, it is little wonder that your Crown Vic isn't performing well.

I would suggest having this range of sensors looked at, the Mass Air Sensor, the Idle Air Bypass Sensor, the Throttle Positioner Sensors and the like. Granted, some of these sensors (Mass Air and Idle Bypass) are more for idle and low-speed performance, but you just can't tell when one or more of them may fail and interact with other sensors in the change. I think the most likely candidate of the bunch is the Throttle Positioner. If the ECU isn't reading throttle position correctly then performance will suffer.

One other possibility -- and this is a thought -- is to have the EVP sensor checked as well, though this one is more involved with emissions than other things. Still, it could affect your Crown Vic's performance.

Feb 22, 2015 | 2000 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

Where is the throttle pedal sensor located on a 2002 cheverolet silverado

There is a throttle valve positioner sensor located at the end of the throttle valve shaft on the right hand end of the shaft, the sensor then bolts to the throttle body as you face the engine from the front. A defective sensor will set the check engine light and give hesitation during acceleration.

Jun 29, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

Replacing oven sensor on GE Range JGSP31GER1WG

You can try the new thermostat and if the temp is still off, then you you will need to replace the control.

Dec 29, 2011 | Whirlpool Stove Oven Sensor 8053344

1 Answer

Where does the cam position sencer located at

It's officially called a CMP Syncronizer.
There are stern warnings on the page associated with this.
CMP sensor is located on rear of engine, behind intake manifold. Before removing, note position of electrical connector on CMP sensor. Remove upper intake manifold. See UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD . Disconnect CMP sensor. Remove CMP sensor screws and CMP sensor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure CMP sensor electrical connector is pointing in original direction. Tighten CMP sensor to specification.
2 . Failure to use synchro positioner during installation will cause fuel injection to be out of time and may cause engine damage.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate crankshaft when Synchro Positioner (T95T-12200-A) is positioned on CMP synchronizer. Armature tab will be damaged and synchronizer timing may be shifted. Removal
1. Position crankshaft to TDC of cylinder No. 1, on compression stroke. Note position of electrical connector on CMP sensor. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Unplug harness connector from CMP sensor. Remove CMP sensor screws and CMP sensor from positioner. Remove synchronizer hold-down bolt and CMP synchronizer.
Fig. 2: Exploded View Of CMP Synchronizer Assembly (Typical) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate crankshaft while synchronizer is removed from engine. Installation
1. Install Synchro Positioner (T95T-12200-A) on synchronizer housing. See Fig. 3 . Rotate synchronizer shaft until vane on shaft aligns with slot on synchro positioner. Rotate synchro positioner until engaged into notch in housing. Dip drive gear in engine oil.
Fig. 3: Installing Synchro Positioner On Synchronizer Assembly (Typical) Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Fig. 4: Positioning Synchronizer For Installation Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO. 2. Rotate sychronizer assembly so that synchro positioner is 60 degrees counterclockwise of crankshaft centerline before inserting synchronizer assembly into engine. See Fig. 4 . 3. As synchronizer is inserted into engine, synchronizer will rotate. When seated, synchronizer electrical connector should be located in original position.
CAUTION: If CMP sensor electrical connector is not positioned correctly, DO NOT reposition connector by rotating synchronizer. This may cause fuel system to be out of time with the engine, causing possible engine damage or an engine misfire. Remove synchronizer and reinstall. See step 3 . 4. Install hold-down clamp and tighten bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install CMP sensor to synchronizer and tighten to specification. Ensure CMP sensor electrical connector is in original position. Reconnect wiring to CMP sensor. Connect negative battery cable.

May 03, 2011 | 1995 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Tests for throttle position sensor

You can test the sensor with an ohm meter . Unplug the conecter from the sensor . There are three connecter pins . The top being one and the bottom three.

With the meter leads accross terminals 1 and 2 and the pedal at idle position the meter should read 20 ohms .
At wide open position it should read 6000 ohms .

Then put leads accross terminals 2 and 3 .
At idle position meter shouls read 0
at wide open should read 4600 ohm,

Dec 25, 2010 | 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2 Answers

After reading the trouble code I changed the throttle positioning sensor and now it gets too much fuel floods and will not start.

You have to zero out the postion sensor with an ohm meter. disconnect the plug for the TPS then with an ohm meter turn it to where ohm meter reads 0 ohms with throttle closed, next tighten screws then with ohm meter still connected open the throttle plate it should read 0 ohms till the plate opens and then should increase as it is put in wide open throttle postion, if it goes stratigh over to full postion then the swich is defective remove and take back to autoparts store. then restet the new switch, it is common to get a bad TPS every once and a while.

Jun 24, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Check engine light comes on after approx. one minute. My code reader gives me a 214 in continuous memory ( cylinder ID circuit failure). I clear the code and it comes back. What is giving me this code?...

look 214 is not a valid code for a 1995 escort, this is an OBD1 system. here is a list of trouble codes for this year of ford no matter the model.

You should find the diagnostic connector under your hood normally by the fender on the battery side. By just using your test light and a jumper wire, it will tell you what kind of problem you got.

Model years 1984-1995 all models of Ford
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine). Read the codes.

How to do it?

Example code 23: your test light should flash 2 long consecutive flashes followed by 3 short pulses.

Ford's common codes for OBD1 (vehicles made before 1995)

11 system pass
12 idle control fault
13 dc motor did not move
14 engine rpm signal fault or PIP circuit failure
15 eec processor or power to KAM interrupted
16 rpm to low to check oxygen sensor test or fuel control error
17 cfi fuel control system fault or rich/lean condition indicated
18 ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) circuit failure
19 cylinder identification (CID) sensor input failure
21 engine coolant temperature (ECT) out of self-test range
22 manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor circuit out of range
23 throttle positioner sensor out of self-test range
24 air charge temperature (ACT) sensor out of self-test range
25 knock not sensed during dynamic response test
26 transmission fluid temperature out of self-test range
28 loss of primary tach, right side
29 insufficient input from vehicle speed sensor
31 egr positioner sensor below minimum voltage
32 egr positioner sensor below closed limit
33 throttle positioner sensor noisy/harsh on line
34 egr valve circuit out of self-test range
35 egr valve circuit above maximum voltage
38 idle track switch circuit open
39 axod torque converter or bypass clutch not applying properly
41 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always lean
42 oxygen sensor circuit indicates system always rich
43 oxygen sensor out of self-test range
44 air injection control system failure
45 coil 1 primary circuit failure
46 coil primary circuit failure
47 4X4 switch is closed or oxygen sensor failure
48 coil primary circuit failure
49 electronic transmission shift error
51 engine coolant temperature sensor circuit open
52 power steering pressure switch circuit open
53 throttle position circuit above maximum voltage
54 air charge temperature circuit open
55 key power input to processor open circuit
56 mass air flow circuit above maximum voltage
57 axod circuit failure
58 idle tracking switch circuit fault
59 automatic transmission shift error
61 engine coolant temperature circuit grounded
62 converter clutch error
63 throttle positioner circuit below minimum voltage
64 air charge temperature circuit grounded
65 charging system over voltage
66 mass air flow sensor circuit below minimum voltage
67 neutral/drive switch circuit open
68 transmission fluid temperature over temperature range
69 transmission shift error
70 data circuit communication link circuit failure
71 message center circuit circuit failure
72 insufficient manifold absolute pressure (MAP) change during dynamic response test
73 insufficient throttle positioner (TPS) change during dynamic response test
74 brake on/off (BOO) circuit open
75 brake on/off (BOO) circuit closed
76 insufficient air flow output change during test
77 brief wide open throttle not sensed during test
78 power interrupt detected
79 a/c on/defrost on during self test
81 map has not changed normally
82 super charger bypass circuit failure
83 OIC-low speed fuel pump relay circuit failure
84 egr vacuum regulator (EVR) circuit failure
85 canister purge circuit failure
86 shift solenoid circuit failure
87 fuel pump circuit failure
88 electro drive fan circuit failure
89 transmission solenoid circuit failure
91 no oxygen sensor switching detected
92 shift solenoid circuit failure
93 throttle positioner sensor input low
94 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit failure
95 fuel pump secondary circuit failure
96 fuel pump secondary circuit failure
97 transmission indicator circuit failure
98 electronic pressure control circuit failure
99 eec has not learned to control idle

Jan 14, 2010 | 1995 Ford Escort

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