Question about 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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Is the clutch pack on the right side of the engine and do you need to drop the exhaust? If so how in the world do you get the bolts out with out breaking them?

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Most modern motorbikes has the clutch to the right and to confirm that follow the clutch to the engine where you will figure out where it's located.Some bikes do require that you remove the exhaust but some do not.If the bolt are seized then the only way to get them out is to use a hammer and a small chisel, be careful not to know the engine as else you will crack it.This should solve your problem according to my experience and please rate this comment.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I need to remove the exhaust manifold on the right side of a 94 4.9l engine in a cadillac deville. It has a broken bolt in the exhaust. What is involved in removing the manifold?


I suggest you use all new exhaust manifold hardware and torque new bolts to 20 Ft Lbs.
4.5L and 4.9L Engines
RIGHT
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Disconnect the oxygen and coolant temperature sensors. Remove the catalytic converter-to-AIR pipe clip bolt. Remove the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the converter air pipe bracket from the stud and remove the converter-to-manifold exhaust pipe. Support the engine cradle with screw jacks and remove the rear cradle bolts. Loosen the front cradle bolts and slightly lower the Engine cradle. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, the AIR pipe, and the manifold. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces.
To install:
Install the exhaust manifold and replace the AIR pipe. Tighten the manifold mounting bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (21-24 Nm). Install the manifold-to-converter exhaust pipe and replace the converter air pipe bracket to the stud. Raise the Engine cradle and install the rear cradle bolts. Tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Lower the vehicle. Replace the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Replace the converter air pipe to AIR pipe clip bolt. Connect the coolant temperature and oxygen sensor connectors. Replace the exhaust crossover pipe. Replace the air cleaner and connect the negative battery cable. Start the Engine and check for leaks.

Mar 28, 2017 | Cadillac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove a oil pan from a 1988 Cadillac sedan deville


Have to remove the bolt from the motor mount on right side and loosen the bolts on the left side motor mount, jack engine up on right side until you get enough clearance to slide pan out, hopefully your exhaust system will not get in the way to where you have to remove that also.

Oct 27, 2015 | Cadillac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Suzuki Baleno waggon clutch removing instructions


wow, no year stated ! a 12 year run.
1995-2002 (Japan)
1999-2007 (India)

the manual transmission clutch (not A/T TC or A/T internal clutches)
M/T stick clutch.
NO year stated, and not sold in USA (we are USA) hear, but is sold
here as an Esteem.
our car , has 2 engines, the G16 or the J18.
so servicing any clutch on any engine can vary by, engine, type.
but ill post the steps for your car.

alldata.com
or suzuki pit stop plus, both have FSM on Esteems.

out side USA they have these engines.
1.3 L G13B I4
1.5 L G15A I4
1.6 L G16B I4
1.8 L J18A I4
1.8 L BP-ZE I4
1.9 L XUD9 diesel I4
now the steps ,based on our car.

Ill spin the wheel of fortune, 1998
first is obvious, trans mission removal to reach said stick clutch

phase 1:
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Drain the transaxle oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Battery cables (remove car battery first or NEG lug)
    • Battery and tray
    • Clutch cable adjusting nut, joint pin from the cable and cable from the bracket
    • All the wiring harness clamps and connectors involved with the transaxle removal, tag if necessary for location to aid during installation
    • Speedometer cable boot, case clip and cable from the case
    • Radiator outlet pipe from the transmission side cover, on Swift models
    • Transaxle retaining bolts
    • Starter
    • Fender apron extension on the left side
    • Bolts connecting the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold and disconnect the joint
  4. On Esteem models, with the engine supported, remove the vehicle center mounting member by removing the 7 nuts and 4 bolts.
    • Gearshift control shaft nut and bolt
    • Control shaft from the gearshift control shaft
    • Extension rod nut and washers
    • Clutch housing lower plate
    • Sway bar
    • Left and right front wheels
    • Left and right ball joints
    • Left and right halfshafts
    • Transaxle stiffener
    • Transmission to engine bolt and nut
    • Engine rear mounting bracket bolts
  5. Install an engine support.
  6. Support the transaxle with a suitable jack.
  7. Remove the left engine mounting bracket and stiffener.
  8. Lower the transaxle with the engine attached. Pull the transaxle straight out toward the left side.
  9. Lower and remove the transaxle.
phase 2: the clutch.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Hold the flywheel stationary.
  4. Matchmark the pressure plate and flywheel for installation reference.
  5. Loosen the pressure plate attaching bolts 1 turn at a time (evenly) until the spring pressure is released.
  6. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate.

does this help.?

Feb 18, 2015 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Changed manual clutch in a 2000 dodge ram 1500 2wd v6 truck got it back together now it turns over but won't crank


Do you mean that the engine will not fire or run? If that is what you mean, When you replaced the clutch you may have damaged the Crank shaft position sensor. It is located on the passengers side of the engine. where the Bell housing and engine block are bolted together, Just above where the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe meet. It is bolted to the engine block with 2 bolts. If you do not know it is there and even if you do it is easy to damage.

Jan 26, 2012 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

1 Answer

I have started to fit mushrooms. Put one side in fine. Removed engine bolt other side but engine has dropped slightly so unable to get new bolt in!


dude your engine should have about five or six main bolts holding it in place unless you know what your upto would take it to a dealer without driving it to far but as an extreme temporary solution put a jack under the engine and slowly lift it up place the jack under the weaker side ie side the engine dropped also if ya get the engine up to put the bolt back in run the engine for a bit to make sure nothing else has been affected by the drop and smell for exhaust fumes coming from header pipes best of luck mate but do take to a dealer for a check if it is second hand

Feb 27, 2011 | kawasaki Z750 Motorcycles

2 Answers

2004 ford escape exhaust manifold torque specs?


2b507d0.jpg

Fig. Left side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine


22ac5ae.jpg

Fig. Right side exhaust manifold bolt torque sequence-3.0L engine

Both cases, exhaust manifold and new gasket, torque the bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

Good luck (remember to rate this answer).

Oct 22, 2010 | 2004 Ford Escape

2 Answers

Need torque specs for 83 chevy 350 cylinder head bolts.


Hello there
Torque Specs
These specs may not be correct for your application.
Verify your engine specs with a service manual for your year and model.
always torque bolts in three equal increments
Bolts or Parts Lube or Sealer Torque to: 7/16 Main Caps (2 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Inner Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 70 ft-lbs. 7/16 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. 3/8 Outer Main Caps (4 bolt) Engine Oil 40 ft-lbs. Warning!!! If you are using ARP bolts, you MUST use
their specs. Click Here! 3/8 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. 11/32 Connecting Rod Bolt Engine Oil 45 ft-lbs. Cylinder Heads
Engine oil
(blind hole)
Sealer
(water jacket)
65 ft-lbs.
Rocker Studs (screw-in) Engine Oil 50 ft-lbs. Oil Pump Engine Oil 65 ft-lbs. Oil Pan Engine Oil 12 ft-lbs. Cam Sprocket (upper gear) Thread Locker 20 ft-lbs. Timing Cover Engine Oil 6 ft-lbs. Intake Manifold
(Cast Iron Heads)
Non- Hardening Sealer 30 ft-lbs. Valve Cover Engine Oil 3 ft-lbs. Exhaust Manifold Anti-Seize Lubricant 25 ft-lbs. Spark Plugs No Lube or Sealer 20 ft-lbs. Flexplate (Automatic)
Flywheel (Clutch)
Thread Locker 60 ft-lbs. Clutch Pressure Plate Thread Locker 35 ft-lbs. Centerbolt
(Harmonic Damper)
Engine Oil 60 ft-lbs. Bellhousing
(Transmission to Block)
Engine Oil 25 ft-lbs. Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
sbchvy_head_seq.gif

Apr 16, 2010 | 1983 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

,,i have a 97 civic needs a new clutch, what else besides the obviuos do i have to look out for in order to remove trans or should i go a another route, to replace clutch. i removed the spindle/ cv joint...


you have to unbolt the exhaust header and the two bolts under that, pull the radiator out so there is room to pull the exhaust header of the head,and let it drop down to get the two bolts out your talking about

Feb 18, 2010 | 1997 Honda Civic

3 Answers

How long will it take to repair a 87 suzuki samurai clutch, 4x4


Remove the shifter from inside, two connectors to the sensorson the trans at the firewall, remove 4 bolts holding front driveshaft to the front diff, slide rear section of front driveshaft out of the splines, remove 4 bolts holding rear driveshaft to transfer case and slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tailshaft, remove the two starter bolts ( hardest part of the job), leave the starter in the engine bay with the wires still attached, remove the clutch ARM from the transmission, remove the rear transmission mount (4 12mm bolts) support the transmission on a jack, put another jack in from of the engine to pitch the engine so the rear is sagging down slightly (this is so you have enough clearance to remove the transmission), remove the four 14 mm bellhousing bolts (remember the longer one goes onto the passenger side top) tip the tailshaft up to the floor of the Sammy and slide it to the rear as far as possible, let the front come down slowly ( it will barley rub the pressure plate but not enough to hurt anything) presto its out, replace the clutch assembly and grease throwout and transmission splines the reverse these steps. I have done 3 of these and accomplished my last one in 4 hours total. No need to remove the exhaust, transfer case or engine as others have stated on numerous write ups. You will need two 12mm combo wrenches, one 14mm combo wrench, one 3/8 drive ratchet with 12mm shortwell socket, a couple extensions for said ratchet, one small pair of pliers (to hold the clutch cable while adjusting) and a hammer to gently tap the clutch arm onto the splines.

Apr 28, 2009 | 1987 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

Where is the crank sensor located at so i can replace it


Tools needed 5/16" Socket, ratchet, small flathead and a jack... Get the car up, look behind engine (trunk side) right under the exhaust, there is one bolt, real easy... Remove bolt, use screwdriver to press out red clip, remove plug, twist and pull on sensor until it comes free, press back in, re-install bolt, plug.. drop car and drive away... easiest and fastest way to make wife happy !! :) Good luck...

Jul 20, 2008 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

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