No, it would still start and run for just a brief minute or two, before too much back pressure killed the engine.
Have you checked for spark on a spark plug wire? Another test is to spray some starting fluid into the throttle body intake and try starting. If it coughs and tries to run for a few seconds, you know that gas is not getting into the cylinders-either a bad fuel pump or an injector circuit problem. If nothing with the starting fluid, it must be an ignition problem, so start by checking for spark. If no spark, possibly the ignition coil, the ignition control module (but this may be in your new distributor), the crank position sensor, or rarely a bad pcm- the engine computer.
Yes it is possible for a plugged up cat to prevent any car from running. Before you replaced all those parts you should have done some troubleshooting first. Are you getting spark at the right time on each cylinder? It is also possible the timing chain/belt has slipped of broken and this would not only cause the timing to be off but your car would not run. when you replaced your distributor and wires did you make absolutely sure it went back together exactly as before? If the above is all or mostly greek to you, you need to find someone who can quickly troubleshoot for you. First have them check engine codes. Second check the timing. Third have them check for proper timing and spark. Next have them check for fuel delivery at the fuel injectors. Then if all the above checks out ok, checked for a plugged exhaust system.
No codes showing
No codes showing. pulses to injectors good . Haven't checked compression timing belt isn't broke
Based on the fact that it will run briefly and no codes (no check engine light) then try disconnecting the exhaust just ahead of the cat and see if it will run. another sign the cat is bad is if it gets real hot - but it probably can't run long enough to do this right now. preceding this not running would be poor power through entire engine rpm band and poor milage.
oh ya when trying to start if I put my foot on gas lead it seems to want to start but I don't want to crank it to long. then when I stop cranking it sometimes makes a glug glug sound like when you ld hear ummm like when you crank a dirtbike motor. that compression sound., tried starting fluid ,nothin
Yes, sounds like a clogged cat, though a muffler can corrode and plug up as well. try disconnecting the exhaust ahead of the cat first. if it starts and runs that is your problem. if so replace your O2 sensor at the same time as the cat because it will have run too rich to be effective. if after disconnecting the exhaust it doesn't want to runmake sure you are getting enough pressure out the exhaust pipe. if not you need to check between your exhaust manifold and the end of the pipe ahead of the cat.
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If the distributor is installed properly and fuel system is good it would still start but have little power and get hot fast!
If it is firing and getting fuel the timing may be off.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: my 94 geo prizm sputters and jerks during
for that cost you could have taken it to a mechanic and had the compretion tested, that is what needs to be done. at least 90psi and all cyliders sould be within 15% to that.
SOURCE: 1993 Geo Storm starts shuts
I have one too, almost same problems. I had to change the control module. Try that cuz I went through the whole list with no luck. Control module made it work
SOURCE: 96 geo prizm 1.6l.
I would definitely try the distributer cap and rotor button. It's about a 15 minute job and might solve your problem. As the car warms up the electrical components of course heat up too. As the heat goes up, resistance also increases in electrical connections, wires, etc. You could be getting enough current to pass between the rotor and the poles at low temps but, as they heat up, sufficient current for a good spark is not being passed along.
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