Question about 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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Will not turnover

Driving home the other night and my positive cable sparked against my battery box,now it won.t turn over. my headlight works but my horn and signals won.t work. 1987 883 xlh sportster

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Check your fuzes

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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You probably need a new battery. There is not enough capacity to turn the starter (which draws a lot of current); low current-drawing accessories (lights, radio, horn) will still work until the battery is flat out dead.

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first check to see if you get spark with key in on position check for spark if you have spark and your saying your explorer won't turnover ( crank ) then first see if headlights work if no check the battery with a testor. if battery is good check the fuel pump fuse be sure its not burnt out and is in tight. if fuse is good turn key to on position and at the same time listen for the electric fuel pump to hum if you hear no short hum your pump may be dead , be sure to check fuel relay switch to be sure. if its the pump its about a $400.00 job using a ford pump stay away from store brands.

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Why won t my car turnover


  • Okay, a clicking sound is the solenoid engaging the starter drive gear but the starting motor is not turning over. First possible is low battery. Second is bad or dirty connection, usually battery terminal. Good enough to energize solenoid but not enough amps to spin starter. Third is a bad starter motor, usually a brush corroded, worn or stuck.
  • Lift the hood and look at the battery terminals. if they are clean and tight, check the battery for charge. I usually hook a booster on and try cranking the engine over. ZIf it works, charge or replace the battery.
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Hi Robert, when checking for spark the CKP needs to measure the compression bump in order to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM so always check for spark with either a third plug grounded or lift the end of the plug boot 1/2 " off one of spark plugs that are in the head. and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
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2005 Altima won't start, hear clicking sound coming from fuse box,key stuck in ingintion,won;t turn over,tried to jump start.


the clicking that you hear is coming from the starter relay. sounds like your ignition starter switch or ignition lock cylinder is bad.

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I have a 1998 Harley ultra classic found blown fuse for headlight replace with new on the way home turn singals stoped working headlight was on stoped at home turned off tried to restart but would not...


Hi Anonymous, when checking for spark the CKP needs to measure the compression bump in order to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM so always check for spark with either a third plug grounded or lift the end of the plug boot 1/2 " off one of spark plugs that are in the head. and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty
2. Fuel supply valve turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over use of enrichner.
5. Fuel valve or filter clogged.
6. Vacuum hose to automatic fuel supply valve disconnected, leaking, or pinched.
7. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery connections.
8. Loose wire connection at coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, spark plug cable connections loose,
or cables connected to wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition coil, ignition module, or sensors " Manifold Absolute Pressure" "Camshaft Position Sensor" "Crank Position Sensor" "Brake Apply Sensor
11. Engine lubricant to heavy ( winter operation )
12. Sticking or damaged valves or push rod wrong length.
13. Primary cam sproket spline sheared or missing spacer.
14. Security alarm system not disarming.
For a primary suspect please visit the website below: Good luck
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My 1995 Mazda Protege 1.5L was running fine. We were driving home and the car cutoff, will turnover but will not crank. I can take the oil cap off and see one of the CAM's turning and turning freely


if you can see the cam shaft turning then the timing belt is ok
run the fault codes and check for crank position or cam shaft position sensor failures
one or the other or both are candidates for your problem

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Headlights don`t work


Sounds like a bum relay in the main underhood fuse box. My complete illustrated tutorial for repairing this $80.00 part is here: http://www.customsaab.com/Custom_Saab_NG900_OG9-3_Performance_Articles/p2_articleid/24

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Hi,if the engine won`t turn over may be is stock(demage).Try to turn engine by hand fiting a tool on a cranckshaft polley.If is very hard to turn or don`t at all,the engine must be repaired.

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