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Re: fork oil quantity
I have a 1982 CB750C the manual says the quantity is the same for all bike before 1982 it says 6 ounces for the air assist fork models. this is from a clymer manual i recently bought. Highly recommend getting one
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Well, yes. The fork seals are located at the top of the fork slider un the "slide tube cap". This makes me wonder exactly what did you replace when you say that you just replaced the "fork seals". To get to these oil seals, you have to disassemble the forks tubes. Remove the front wheel and fenders. Down where you took the axle out, look up into the end of the slider and you'll see a socket head bolt, 6mm. Loosen this bolt before you take the tube out of the triple tree. Remove and repair one tube at the time. When you get the slider off the top tube, you will see a retainer ring in the top of the slider. The seal is under this ring. The new oil seals must be replace squarely in the tube. When you reassemble the tube and put it back in the triple tree, there is a specific amount of fork oil that must be added to each tube to properly refill it. You must use the "dry" quantity when refilling the fork tube because you disassembled and completely drained the tube. I'm sorry but I don't have this quantity of fork oil for this late of a model bike. I work on the earlier model bikes only.
G'day. A couple of suggestions- Damage to the fork slider-chips or dings. Too much oil in the fork on re-assembly can cause the seal to go. Worn or loose fork bushes will flog the seal prematurely. When you transport the bike-if you don't use a seal saver can pop the seals.
So let me help with these.
Be sure that the fork slider is not scored,dinged or damaged on th surface.
A good double check of the oil quantity is to ensure that when you have re-filled the tube with oil & primed it(worked the air out of it), the oil level should be 100 to 110 mm from the top of the leg to the oil with the fork fully compressed. If the level is less than this-drop it to 100mm.
To check the fork bushes-try pull on the front forks front to back(wobble) & feel for looseness in the bushes.
And finally-When you transport the bike-put a chock(I use an empty 5ltr oil container-but you can buy propper chocks from the bike shop) in-between the forks at top of the front wheel . Now when you pull the front end down it will stop on the chock & stop the front forks being under excessive compression for extended periods-so it saves the fork springs from sacking out too. I hope this proves helpfull. Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
First off, make sure you or whoever is doing the work is installing the correct seal in the proper direction. A seal put in backwards will leak like crazy. Also, make sure you're putting the correct amount of fork oil in once you get finished. There are usually two different quantities of oil listed. One is a "WET" quantity that you add when you simply drain the tubes and refill them. The other is a "DRY" quantity that you put in whenever you disassemble the tubes. I usually use 30 wt. fork oil. You shouldn't be having a problem unless you have something really bad wrong. The fork tube must be sized to fit the bushings inside the lower fork tube (slider) so the seals should work.
Probably the reason the fork seal is blown is too much air pressure. Definitely fix the seal and put in the correct amount of oil. You do not have to put air in to the front forks if you do not want to. To properly set up your suspension, set your rear shocks first, hard for two, soft for one, etc. Now load the bike, you or you and the passenger. With the front forks set to near max pressure (only 12 to 14 pounds air pressure do not go over max recommended pressure) bounce on the motorcycle seat and bleed off the pressure in the front forks till the front and back of the bike drop together. This is the correct way to set up your suspension. A bicycle foot pump with a pressure gauge works best works best. You will be near max pressure in one small hand squeeze of the foot pump. You will find it only takes 7-8 pounds of pressure to set up your bike. Just remember, You do not have to put air pressure in to your front forks, they will work just fine. You just wont benefit from the adjustable design.
what do you want to do, can you do it yourselves the changing process and do you have the required fork seals, oil and tools to remove fork seals? Do you know how to take and release the forks from your bike?
a trace is normal, to much is not. that probable is due to dryed out fork seal, as they ere not getting lubed due to inactivity. the air fittings are for ajustable damping. if you ride 2 up or yourself being heavy or you just want a firmer fork suspension. i don;t know the range for your bike. try asking the dealer.or just put in 5 lbs. and try. if the presure doesn't last then you have leaky seals......
Angela, do you have a Clymer, Hayne, or service manual for the bike? If not you should get one, there is a lot of valuable information in there even if you don't do all the work yourself.
Replacing the fork seal requires putting the front end in the air, disconnecting everything from the front wheel (brake lines, speedometer cable if there is one), and dropping the wheel and fork tubes CAREFULLY to separate the two pieces of the fork tubes. Then grab the old seal and replace it with the new seal.
This short description is a VERY abbreviated and simplified version. It's not hard once you have done it a couple times but be very careful not to bend anything in your forks. They have springs inside them too. Change the oil while you are in there. Usually 10 or 15 weight fork oil but look in your manual. If you can't find a manual post again with your bike's year and we will see what we can come up with.