I was driving with normal city speed when I realised that the front brakes were jammed. I´d tried to drain out some brakefluid ( I thought that it was over filled) but it only helped for a while. My bike is -03 Scarver with ABS. The handlebar seem to function properly and when opening the brake fluid chamber you see actually the fluid draining in and out from that needle hole in the bottom of the chamber while pressing and loosing the handlebar. So there should not be any extra particels blocking the needle hole. The rear brakes seem to work properly. Where should I start to screen the problem and how?? Appreciate any help :))
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: Front brakes jammed
If you were unwise enough to think that draining brake fluid from your front brake was anywhere near to a sensible solution to a braking problem, please take your bike to the nearest repair centre and get it fixed properly before you kill yourself or someone else, or both.
That has to be the most bone-headed solution to a braking problem I have ever heard.
YOU CANNOT HAVE TOO MUCH BRAKE FLUID - BUT NOW YOU HAVE TOO LITTLE!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Could be that the callipers are jamming or the wheel is running tight. Check for wheel spin with the front wheels off the ground, they should spin with minimum effort. Could also be something wrong with the master cylinder. It may not be releasing properly and slowly building pressure to lock the brakes. After sitting for a while, it returns to normal position and releases the brakes. Mt Ford had a dud wheel bearing which would intermittently start to seize. When this happened, the anti lock braking system thought that the wheel was about to lock and would throw the brakes on and off without warning... Check your wheel bearings too.
If the light is still on, some scanners can tell you what the problem is. Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys do free scans. They need to have the better scanner with more capabilities to perform this function.
If a connection has failed the scanner will report it. For now, check your Brakefluid level and be aware of the fill line. A large drop in beakefluid level means a problem.
Hi Sdill, That must have been scarry! I suggest looking at the following:- Make sure there has been no separation of the brake linings from the mountings. Make sure that the rear brake assembly locators and retaining mounts have not come adrift. Check the front calipers and brake pads. Check the pedal movement and determine the normal movement with the engine running (car stationary) and the engine off and let me know the travel distance. Check for any signs of leakage of brake fluid on the inside of any of the wheels. Check for signs of leakage from the brake master cylinder. Check the flexible brake hoses for swelling or breakage. Check for broken or loose fitting of the hose to the brake booster and the one way valve operation of booster valve. When the failure occurs is there any braking effect at all? or does the pedal go to the floor with nothing happening? I'll be waiting for your reply. Regards John
When you drive the brake pads wear down as a normal part of driving. When they get about half worn the amount of fluid in the master cylinder will be low because it takes more to fill the wheel cyliinders. Low brake fluid causes the light to come on. This is all normal.
you are right when you mastercylinder related,as you have a very small port (compesating)inside the cylinder and should a small partical enter and block this port the brakefluid cannot push back when releasing the brakes causing the brakes to bind.the cylinder should be removed and cleaned.
loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck