1984 318i conks out when first starting,then again...but she warms up all is fine! Fuel pump/filter? Also some times brake pedal goes to floor.Bleed them

If YOU DON'T HAVE AN AUTOMATIC BLEEDER GET SOMEONE TO HELP YOU. MAKE SURE THERE IS FLUID IN THE RESOVOIR. HAVE YOUR HELPER 'PUMP' THE BRAKE PEDAL NUMEROUS TIMES THEN HOLD THE PEDAL DOWN. STARTING FROM THE FURTHEST WHEEL AWAY FROM THE RESEVOIR OPEN THE BLEED SCREW SLIGHTLY TO LET OUT ALL AIR. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND PUMP UP THE LINE AGAIN HOLDING THE PEDAL DOWN OPEN THE BLEED SCREW AGAIN UNTIL PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND REPEAT UNTIL NO AIR COMES OUT. MOVE TO NEXT WHEEL AND REPEAT. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE RESEVOIR FULL.

bleed the brakes again starting at the longest line at the rear and work forward . The indication is still air in the lines.

Because when you start it the brake booster will start working, start bleed on wheel farthest from master cylinder and work closer, one at a time pump up and bleed each line at least once after you don't see air anymore...

well if you didnt squeeze the calipers in using a tool or c-clamp then there is a bleeder screw on the back of the caliper youll need 2 people for this operation.

1 start car
2 pump brakes till as tight as they will go and hold it to the floor
3 second person undoes the bleeder screw after all fliud or air is gone retightens it(the preson in the car still has brake depressed until vavle is closed)
4 repeat till small amount of pedal travel.

When bleeding you start at the rt rear to left rear to rt front to left front always checking to make sure master stays with fluid, also start by removing one bleeder at a time and make sure the hole is clean and free of dirt brake clean should flow through, do this to all 4, then have someone pump pedal 3 times and hold then open bleeder when you close bleeder tell them pump again three times, do this all around until you have a good pedal, also check for leaks after bleeding, may have bad rusted line or bad master but bleed each wheel good first.dont worry about pedal going to floor everytime, just make sure fluid flows out of all bleeders when bleeding. hope this helps.

Start with brake in the rear that is the farthest away from the master cylinder ( if your master cylinder is on drivers side start with passenger rear,pump up brake pedal until hard have someone else open bleeder valve until air or fluid squirts out,while holding brake pressure even if goes to the floor dont release pedal until bleeder valve is tightened or you will **** air back into the line,do this several times making sure you get a full stream of brake fluid and no air,continue to other rear wheel and then proceed to front wheel furthest from master cylinderand then final wheel. if you still don't have brakes change master cylinder and bleed all brakes again.

You will have to bleed the whole system, front and back, start with the right rear, get somebody to pump the pedal, put a hose on the lock nut, catch the oil in a can, pump up the pedal, it won't get hard till a few times doing this, crack the bleeder, tighten it back up before the pedal is released, pump again, crack,tighten, pump, repeat, go all the way around the car, keep checking the reservoir, it will pump up soon enough. You might have to go around 2 or 3 times, Now,,,, the part about the pedal going to the floor and getting hard after car is shut off, sound like you didn't hook up the vacuum line to the booster. It has an atmospheric thing going on there. Check the big hose going into the booster, which is that big round thing behind the fluid reservoir. Hope this helps.

Not bench bleeding is a big mistake. You have to bench bleed. I know you dont want to hear this but your gonna have to take that master cylinder back off and bench bleed it. I hope you dont have a.b.s. cause if you do you just pumped it full of air. If that is the case you are going to have to pressure bleed it at a repair shop. after you bench bleed use this process to bleed your brakes start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder have someone pump the brake pedal slowly about seven times then hold it to the floor. then you open the brake bleeder and air and fluid will come out. then close the bleeder make sure your assistant holds the pedal down to the floor the whole time until the bleeder is closed then have them pump the pedal again another seven times and hold it to the floor open the bleeder then close it again. keep doing this process until you see a clear stream of brake fluid coming out without it spitting air you will be able to tell the difference when the air is gone. then proceed to the next wheel farthest away from the master cylinder. make sure you keep the master cylinder full of fluid while you are bleeding dont let it go dry.

If you don't have any brake lines leaking, change the master cylinder, bench bleed the new one then bleed the blakes, starting with the right rear, left rear, right front, then left front. If the booster was gone, you would hear air leaking out of it when you pressed the pedal down.

There Has To Be Air Getting In The Line Somewhere Keep Depressing it And Adding Brake Fluid. Make Sure That When You Bleed The Brakes You Have 2 People 1 Pushing The Brake 1,2,3 Hold And The Other Is By The Bleed Off. Heres The Job For The Second Person They Should Have A Clear Jar Half Full With Brake Fluid And A Hose Comming From The Bleed Valve And The Ither End Should Be Sitting In The Jar In The Brake Fluid. Before The Person Holding The Brakes Releases Tighten The Valve And Then Release The Brakes. Pump, 1,2,3, Then Open The Valve Again To See If Any Air Bubbles Are Visible Coming From The End Of The Hose In The Brake Fluid If So Much As 1 Is Visible Repeat Again. Once Finished Move On To The Other Side. You May Have To Do All 4 Valves One On Every Brake.