Question about 1992 kawasaki GT 750

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There has been some sort of sealant between the top and bottom end of the engine block on a GT750 I bought, there is very little oil seeping out, is it safe to run it or would I need to replace it and what would be involved, Thanks.

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  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    rebuilt top end,bored cylinders.bike has been to Canada and Oklahoma with no trouble.now its seeping all of a sudden

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  • Master
  • 948 Answers

What do you mean by "safe to run"? All engines will eventually fail. Without knowing what the sealant is and why it is there no one can tell you for sure. Most likely there was an oil leak and a previous owner attempted to plug the leak from the outside instead of taking the engine apart and fixing it properly.

But again, without more information than what you have given no one can say for sure.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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1 Answer

Does the stop leak work by swelling the rubber seals or by detecting air and stopping up the leak?


It depends what sort of stop leak you're talking about. There's different types.

Something for a leaking windshield rubber works by filling a gap and then becomes hard, similar to how bathroom sealant works.

An oil stop-leak works by penetrating and 'refurbishing' -swelling- dried gaskets and then hardening when it contacts the air on the outside of the engine block.

Some types of coolant sealant work by allowing particles to congregate/collect around a small hole in a radiator, blocking the hole. The particles harden due to the air/heat to form a plug. This type of sealant can also block your heater matrix, and they do not repair rubber hoses (hoses must be replaced if leaking).

A cylinder head sealant works by either depositing particles in a small crack in the head or gasket, or in the case of a modern head sealant, it uses polymers.

If you have a slight oil leak - slight - on an engine or auto box, try a sealant. If it's anything more than a slight weep, then gasket/seal replacement is the best option.

Aug 03, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Leaking oil on right side of motor.


The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.

The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.

The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.

While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.

Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.



Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.

You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.



Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.

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1 Answer

Can you tell me how to chech tramission fuild where it is located


I know they made some changes in 95, but I am not sure about the tranny dipstick. The 94 had the dipstick on the passenger side of the engine, towards the rear, the oil stick sits right in front of it. You check the fluid hot, while running, in park. and you fill it right there too, with along neck funnel. Now, if you don't have the dipstick, then they changed that year, there are 2 plugs on the right side of the tranny, crawl under there and find one up, one down, the bottom one is level and the top is fill. Pull the bottom one out, while cold, not running. if oil seeps out, it is full, if no oil seeps out, pull the top plug and fill with the right fluid till it seeps out the bottom hole, I use 90 weight gear oil top on the tranny fluid bottle and squeeze right in there, then plug them back up. Hope this helps.

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2 Answers

How do i remove the oil pan


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - Oil Pan

CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used. (except 2.5 Premier engine)


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Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the lubrication system for all 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines

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Fig. Fig. 7: Apply sealant to the ends of the new oil pan end seals at the junction of the cylinder block pan rail gasket-1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L except Premier engines

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Fig. 8: Clean the gasket mating surface of the oil pan of all old gasket material, dirt, grease or other grime-2.6L engine
  1. Apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, then raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Drain the engine oil. This would also be a good time to change the oil filter.
  3. Remove the engine-to-transaxle struts, if so equipped. These struts prohibit access to the oil pan mounting bolts.
  4. Remove the torque converter or clutch inspection cover.
  5. Support the oil pan and remove the mounting bolts.
  6. Lower the pan and remove the old gasket, if so equipped.
To install:
  1. Clean all gasket surfaces thoroughly.
  2. For 2.6L engines, position a new gasket on the oil pan using a sealer to hold it in place.
1981-87 2.2 and 2.5 Liter engine uses a liquid form-in-place type gasket. Chrysler Part Number 4205918, or equivalent RTV gasket material must be used.
  1. For 1981-87 2.2 and 2.5L engines, install new end seals and apply the form-in-place gasket sealant. The RTV gasket material should be applied in a continuous bead approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) in diameter. All mounting holes must be circled. Uncured RTV may be removed with a rag. The oil pan should be tightened in place while the RTV is still wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a locating dowel is recommended during assembly to prevent smearing of the material off location. Make sure to apply sealer where the end seals meet the block.
1988-95 2.2L and 2.5L engines utilize end seals and side gaskets, not liquid gasket as with 1981-87 models.
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Hope helps (remember rated this).

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1 Answer

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Make sure you work in a very clean area when exposing the engine internals such as you will be doing. 

First drain the oil and remove the oil filter. This should be an obvious starting point, but it is still worth mentioning. 

Under the car, you should have a small black metal structural collar that connects the oil pan to the transmission bell housing. Remove the four bolts that mount this, and remove it. Then remove the 10+ small bolts around the edge of the pan. The pan may be stuck very tightly to the engine block. Be careful of the mating surface where the pan contacts the bottom of the engine block. Do not use a metal crow bar or screw driver in an attempt to separate the oil pan from the block. Wiggling the pan back and forth or prying with a hard plastic or composite prying device should separate the pan with minimal effort. 

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Apply a thin bead of the sealant on the flat mating edge and position the gasket on the pan. Press the gasket straight onto the bead of sealant and wipe off any excess. 

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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3 Answers

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2 Answers

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Hi Toyota Ed
The silver plate seems to be a blank as there are no oil pipes running into.
The leak seems to be weeping along a secondary sump if that makes sense.
If looking from the bottom you have a black sump that bolts onto a silver alloy cast that then seems to be bolted to the lower engine block this seems to have a flexi seal of sealant ( can feel it where it has seeped out) this is were i think the leak is comming from.
Especially when you stop the motor you can see it seeping out around here, but as you know oil sometimes can travel in weird ways and i will check again around the blank plate that you mentioned.
Would i be able to repair it if it is the main sump/ gasket and do you have to remove the motor?

Nov 07, 2008 | 1994 Toyota Camry

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