Question about 2006 Triumph Daytona 955i

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Daytona 955i (02) ran rough display went blank management light

Out on a ride and noticed poor midrange when overtaking, about 20 miles from home and display went completely blank, engine management light came on. Managed to limp about 15 miles with no power then died, 30 amp fuses kept on blowing without ignition on RAC puzzled, trailered home. Checked battery 10v output only but brand new heavy (Lucas) duty, recharged and bike started fine in garage but no charge volts to battery 12.5v no load, engine running 11.8v no increase with revs

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When there is no charging system operational, the bike will run wih battery in total loss mode. When it gets to a certain point of discharge, the first indication is indeed as you saw, the intruments go blank. There is little power left at this point and need to get home asap! 

Either the R/R (rectifier/regulator) and/or the stator is bad - both are unfortunately quite common failures on these bikes. 

You can find a diagnosis guide that I personally authored at this site: 
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

Follow those guidelines and you will be able to determine which or both is failed.
Also is a recommendation for a retrofit/upgrade to a better component if you do need to replace the R/R. 

Posted on Aug 15, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have just purchased a 2003 daytona 955i and when i got it home the engine management light came on and is still on after doing a further 40miles careful riding. when i first went to view the bike the...


Hi, Keith_jones1 it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
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Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
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Charlie

Charlie

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13. Faulty fuel pump.
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sounds like the regulator rectifier has gone bad, but the first thing I would do is get my hands on a manual for quick reference d see if its something simple that you could do yourself like replacing the regulator.

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