Question about 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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How to remove idle jet? I need to check the size of my idle jet and if necessary change it as bike stalls when rolling on throttle from idle, adjusted idle speed and idle mix but stalling and carb spit back remains, so I presume I need a larger idle jet. Stage 1, SEII slash cut and Thunder main jet fitted by dealer from new. How do I get to the idle jet on the standard CV carb?

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The idle jet is located in the bottom of the car. it's the recessed one in the bottom of the body. Remove your air cleaner assembly. remove the four screws. Be careful because it will be full of gas. ( well vented area.) You'll have one jet sticking out. That's your main. right next to it is a recessed jet . That is your idle. you'll have to use a small flathead screw driver to get it out. Make sure you have god pressure on the jet to break it loose. The jet itself is brass, and you don't want to mess it up. You should probably have a 45 jet with your combo. if you've been messing with the mixture screw it should be set around 1 & 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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1999 honda vfr 800. Had a full service done on bike all fluids filters plugs etc. Bike starts ok but as soon as i turn the throttle bike dies no fault codes standing on bike


Hi, Walter you have fuel delivery issues probably carbs I hear your gas tank is begging for a can of Sea Foam if your bike has been sitting idle for months or years and you did not do any pre-storage maintenance I feel your pain it will probably have a dead and not want to start or if it starts it will idle and run poorly then stall, here are the following steps necessary to complete in order to get your bike back to an acceptable running condition.
1. If your battery was 2-3 years old when you last had the bike running you should replace it.
2. If you believe your battery might still be serviceable remove it from the bike and put it on a 1 or 2 amp trickle charger for 24 hours. If it is the old lead acid type with visible cells and acid levels fill each cell to the top line with distilled water and replace the caps, run the vent tube into a plastic or styrofoam cup, any cells that are cloudy/milky replace the battery.
3. After charging remove the leads and let the battery sit for a couple of hours then check the battery voltage with a volt meter, you should have 12.5 volts or better, any readings in the 11 volt range you need to do a proper load test on the battery and replace as necessary, any readings in the 10 volt range you have a dead cell and the battery needs to be replaced.
4. Drain and flush fuel tank, google " how to clean a motorcycle gas tank" find a couple forums to view the different options available.
5. Remove and inspect your air cleaner paper elements that are not oil soaked can be cleaned with a soft brush and low pressure compressed air, oil soaked elements must be replaced. Gause mesh and foam elements can be cleaned by soaking them in a container big enough to completely cover them with a solution of 1 gallon of water and 1 oz. of Dawn dishwashing liquid for small and medium size elements, for monster size double the formula and let soak for at least one hour then rinse with warm water shake off excess and let air dry, "WARNING" do not use compressed air as this will embed micro-sized dirt and road grime and destroy the mesh pattern and stretch foam elements out of shape just squeeze it like a sponge and let air dry, use a fan if you're in a hurry. When completely dry spray a very fine mist of air filter oil evenly around the whole element.
6. Remove the carburetors, disassemble and decontaminate with a carb dip or if you have EFI remove injectors and clean with carb spray and compressed air
7. Remove fuel valve and filter disassemble and clean as necessary, remove, clean, and inspect fuel and vacuum lines and replace as necessary.
8. Replace spark plugs with new ones and check for spark.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Bike idles perfect but dies when given the slightest amount of throttle 93...
Starts choke but dies with little throttle
1998 2001 Honda VFR800FI Service Manual VFR800 Moto Data Project
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VFR800 Owner Manual

Sep 09, 2016 | 1999 Honda VFR 800

1 Answer

Bike will idle but stalls if I touch the throttle


Check fuel flow to carb, if getting free flow to carb the main jet is most likely blocked or the float is stuck. Either one will require removing the carb and cleaning, not difficult but you need to be careful. The hardware is usually soft and will strip easily. You MAY be able to remove the float bowl with the carb still on the bike by loosening the air filter duct clamp and clamps or bolts on the head side, then turning the carb to access the float bowel screws.

Jan 10, 2014 | 2009 Yamaha V Star 250

1 Answer

My 2004 Vulcan Classic 1500 won't idle.


is the carb jetted? if so check to make sure it has the right size jets. too small of jets starve the engine of fuel, and too large flood it. also there should be 2 jets one main jet which controls the amount of fuel when at 1/4 throttle to fuel throttle and then there should be a second which would be the pilot jet that controls idle mixture (1/4 throttle and less) it's longer and thinner than the main jet with multiple holes for mixing air and fuel for idle. have them to make sure the jetting is correct. Also IF the engine had been bored you will need to use larger jets for the added volume in the cylinder chamber from the boring. aftermarket exhausts will also cause the engine to be rejetted but usually the sellers will have charts telling you what jets to run with the exhaust.

Nov 07, 2013 | 2004 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

2002 WR250F from a rolling idle, rap the throtle once pretty good and it just bogs out. from a rolling idle gradual throtle runs fine. Idles fine now that we've cleaned the carb and got the slide plate...


G'day,
Your symptom screams out that the accelerator pump isn't working.
The carbies on these bikes have an accellerator pump set-up that squirts fuel down the center of the carby throat as you hit the accelerator & your symptom is exactly what hapens when it's not working.

To test this - remove the carby & re-connet it to the fuel line(& turn the fuel on) while holding it upright next to the bikes tank(to supply fuel to the carby).
Now opperate the throttle cam(or also re-connect the cables & use the throttle).
As you go from no throttle to full throttle fuel should squrt out the front of the carby.
If it dosn't then the pump is not working & is the cause of the problem.
Rectify this & the bike will scream again.

I hope this is helpfull- check the pump & if it's working good then let me know & I'll see what I can suggest
Regards Andrew Porrelli

May 12, 2011 | Yamaha FourTrax Foreman Rubicon...

2 Answers

Bike has been sitting for only 2 months. Will start with choke on, running around 3500-4500 rpms. Once I take the choke off, it immediately dies. Also when it is running with the choke on, a slight roll...


This is probably a blocked idle jet in the carb, caused by standing and fuel gumming the jets up. The jet that the choke uses will allow it to run, but go to normal running and the idle jet is failing. You MIGHT get away with emptying the tank and getting some (expensive) fuel antifreeze (This is ethol alchohol they use in race cars) run through the bike. It might just melt the gumk and clean things out. If it doesn't, then its probably carb off and strip time :-(

Feb 09, 2011 | 2002 Suzuki GS 500 E

1 Answer

1982 Yamaha XJ750 Maxim will not idle


Hi, Davehougen6 if you have changed your fuel delivery system, air filter size or flow rate, mufflers or exhaust system or a significant change in altitude your carburetors need re-tuning and if your fuel system (gas tank, filters, fuel valve and carburetor) is contaminated with ethanol sludge, varnish, rust, dirt, water etc. or your bike has been sitting for months or years without running these components must be "PROPERLY" cleaned and reassembled "CORRECTLY" before any adjustments can be made. Tuning your carburetor is fairly simple once you understand the basic principals. You engine is a simple airbox sucking air in and blowing it out, it is finely tuned at the factory for maximum performance once you upset that delicate balance by changing air filters, camshafts or exhaust systems your performance may go down the and the engine may run poorly, you need to compensate the air-fuel mixture in the carburetor in order for the engine to run smoothly and at peak performance. If you are running multi carburetors you need to sync them first and make sure your air cleaner element is clean and dry for paper elements or lightly oiled for foam and meshed elements and properly installed. Here is how and where you compensate trouble: "TIP" if your engine "BOGS" your not getting enough fuel.
1. Closed to 1/8 throttle is managed by the air screw and pilot/slow jet.
2. 1/8 to 1/4 throttle is managed by the air-screw, pilot/slow jet, and throttle slide.
3. 1/4 to 1/2 throttle is managed by the throttle slide and jet needle.
4. 1/2 to 3/4 throttle is managed by the jet needle, needle jet, main jet, and air jet.
5. 3/4 to wide open throttle is managed by the main jet and air jet.
6. Wide open throttle is managed by the main jet.
If you are running lean, spark plug electrode color is white, engine runs hot and feels like it is starving for fuel you need to go up on the jet size or move the c-clip down one notch. If you are running rich, spark plug color is black or dark gray, the engine runs cool, and bogs down when accelerating you need to go down on jet size or move the c-clip up one notch. When your carburetor is properly tuned for maximum performance your spark plug electrode will be a light tan color like coffee with cream. If you prefer fuel economy over performance you can go down on main jet sizes until a satisfactory level of lower performance is acceptable versus MPH, your spark plug color will be whiter and your engine will run warmer. These tuning adjustments will only make improvements if your intake and exhaust system have no air leaks or sealing issues and the entire electrical system is in proper working order and you have no mechanical issues.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Life On 2 Wheels
Carburator Theory and Tuning
Yamaha XJ750 Owner Manual Typo actually a service manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-xj-owners-manuals

Jan 29, 2011 | Yamaha Motorcycles

1 Answer

I cant get my bike to idle...when i throttle it ...it backfires.


Pilot jet is plugged. You will have to remove it and clean it. You should be able to loosen carb and roll it far enough to remove the float bowl. Pilot jet will be the long jet next to the main. Once cleaned you shouldn't have to readjust settings.

Oct 31, 2010 | 2005 Yamaha WR 450 F

1 Answer

Engine stalls when throttled


clean air filter fuel filter and fuel tank and lines. Then the varb needs to have the bowl removed to allow the float to be removed,(carefull to not loose fuel needlle or retaining spring.)The jet and orfaces should be cleaned (when the jet is removed be sure the seat for jet goes back the same way....the seat and jet have a rounded shape that fits closely together, not round and flat together.)Ok so be sure not to adjust anything, just clean it and put it back together.Using carb cleaner is the best, you should have mot of the can leftover.Dont let it get on anything (except the carburetor) it will ruin paint and the finish on your engine if you let it!

Apr 28, 2010 | 2000 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

1 Answer

Carbs cleaned but bike will not idle properly


The pilot jet controls the idle. Check your service manual for the jet location. Chances are the jet is plugged up by varnish. Count the number of turns as you turn the adjuster screw INWARD until it LIGHTLY seats. Now remove the adjuster screw. Clean the jet and then put the adjuster screw in and LIGHTLY seat it. Turn the adjuster out the same number of turns as originally counted. Don't seat the screw too tight because you can screw up the jet if you do. Remove the actual jet only if you must.

Please rate this answer. Thanks Shawn! Good descriptions :)

May 02, 2009 | 2001 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

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