Have you tried checking the start button? I had mine overheat, and the button lost contact and mine wouldn't start. (Which can kill the light and ability to start)
SOURCE: bad wire connection problem somewhere..
Strangely enough, the starter switch (at your right hand) controls both headlights and starter. When you press the switch, the headlight goes off to provide more power for the starter. If something happened to that switch, it could possibly cause your problem.
If you have a wiring diagram, you can test the switch with a ohmmeter or test light.
If it's not the switch, some of the related wiring may be the problem.
SOURCE: 84 honda shadow 700 vt lights are unpredictable
There seems to be some short in the circuit of the high beam, you will have to follow the high beam wiring, best would be to get the color of the high beam wire frm the head light bulb socket and trace it along you will sure find somwhere the along it the short.
Check the light switch and the blinker switch too.
Hope this helps!
SOURCE: Were are the fuses located at on the 2005 Honda VT
Found fuse box, had blown fuse, replaced, blew again, going to mechanic to trace down electrical problem
SOURCE: 2002 Honda Shadow DC750 Spirit - Ingition switch won't engage
Check the wiring connections inside the headlamp shell. They tend to pull apart from vibration and corrode from water entry into the shell. If the start button is indeed frozen (will not move at all)--replace it. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: 2007 Honda VFR800 The fuse that
Try bit high amp fuse and see if its blowing or not.If its 10 amp fuse then try 15 amp or 20amp fuse then see.If it still blows then, The turn signal switch or the wiring that goes to horn/stop switch housing.There is short in any of this wires.Most probably its a weak turn signal relay/switch .As you mentioned that " With just the ignition turned on the signals and horn work, when started button is pushed it blows the fuse". The turn signal relay/switch is very expensive and cannot be returned (most
store policies do not allow returns on electrical parts) if it is not what you
need.
You can eliminate the turn signal relay/switch from circuit by
disconnecting it, and shorting the black/brown and grey wires with a
jumper...which should make your winker circuits work as normal.If that fixes
your fuse blowing, the problem must be the relay. But if still fuse is blowing then,its short in wires,because relay is by passed. ----------
The black/brown supplies battery voltage directly from the fuse
box to the relay, as well as all other items on that fuse, such as horn, brake light. If that wire were shorted, your fuse would blow whether your turn relay
was plugged in or not. So...If after eliminating the relay, the fuse still
blows...it would almost HAVE to be the grey wire between the relay and the turn
signal switch on the left handle bar that is shorted. The wires are close to
the bar where they go through the housing, look closely there. ------------ The brake the horn and turn signal switch are all on one circuit. It won't be the actual switch, it will be one of the two wires is shorting out against the metal object right at the switch, pull the two wires off of the front brake switch and see if the fuse blows now. Chances are very good it will not blow now. Take a good look at the wire that was closest to the metal part there. pull the wires off the front brake light switch and see if that clears the short. The left hand controller is harder. You need to pull the front fairing off to disconnect the wires. -------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
This indicates its switch problem and not a short in wire.Because if there is a short then it will not work with ignition turned on.So check the relay/switch,but short is wires cannot be ignored if switch is checked good or if relay/switch is overheating.
I would suggest turning on the turn signal and
jiggling the wires to see if the short engages/does not. That sometimes will
show you where the short is located.
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