My clutch doesnt work

Hey Michelle,,
This is something that will have to be looked into.. Sounds like the clutch may not be working.. it won't engage/disengage..(the clutch plates are stuck together - a common thing when older bikes sit for a while!!).. this will require the right side cover to be removed, the clutch cover plate removed, the clutch plates(fiber and metal) to be removed, then cleaned, oiled and everything re-installed in reverse order..with a new side cover gasket..

You MIGHT be able to put the bike in gear.. then try to push it (engine not running) with the clutch lever pulled in and get the clutch plates to break loose (seen this work a couple times)..
You SHOULD be able to push the bike(engine not running) in gear with the clutch lever pulled in!!!

Please rate as helpful.. thanks!

Suzuki RM50 RM60 RM80 RM100 RM125 RM250 RM370 RM400 Repair Manual 1975 1981

Sounds like the clutch plates may be stuck together. Happened to me after a long trip in the rain and bike sat for a few weeks after that. Had to take the cluch discs out and clean them

The Clutch on some bikes will disengage the starter motor. Yamaha will not allow you to engage gear when the side stand is down. Hope this gives you some idea

that could be a bad cable or your trani needs to be rebuilt.

There is a very very good chance the clutch plates have fused together.When they sit around and not move they can bond together.If you have the tools and gear,you can pull the clutch apart,separate all the plates,give them a clean and put it back together.In EXACTLY the same order as they came apart.Not flipped.Not turned around,but in exactly the same order.
Now.If you take it to a bike shop,they WILL charge the hell out of you.Good chance they will hit you up for new clutch plates etc.If you can walk in and know what job you want done,and the REASON you want the job done,you are miles ahead.Don't get caught out!!! most will try and rip you off.It is an easy fix!
Before you go there.Will the bike shift into gear,if is not running?If so,what I said above stands.If not,Come back to me.
When trying to put it into gear with the motor NOT running,rock the bike back and forth.Just to see if it does go into gear
Hope this helps

If the bike has not been ridden for a while,some of the clutch plates can fuse together.The not starting part has nothing to do with this BUT.To fix the clutch part,the clutch needs to be pulled apart,cleaned and put back together in exactly!!!!!!!! the same order and way it was taken apart.Plates all in order and not flipped around etc..This is a common problem.If you do this a lot of the clutch probs will be gone.Hope this helps

first make sure your oil level is good, then try to adjust the clutch cable, if it still doesnt disengage properly you need to adjust the actual clutch plate mechanism

Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx

Look at the clutch diagram on the Babbit's site. Chances are that the "E" ring #14 was not put on the clutch rack #13 that the pinion shaft #16 engages to pull the pressure plate #8 outward, disengaging the clutch. Without the E-ring the rack can fall inside the clutch and is unable to pull the clutch plates apart. This is likely to be where the problem is. By the way, look at the sequence all the parts are to be installed in. Does your clutch assembly match that sequence? Let me know what you find.

I don't get paid for my answers. I am only trying to help. I do take pride in them. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks

hope that you put the bearing in correctly and bleed the clutch correctly.. i just got done doing all of that.. definately wasnt much fun... if you remove the rubber flap on the tranny you should be able to see what it looks like.. i also have a slight noise of rubbing coming from mine but i think its because its a new clutch.. hope it works out for ya

where it doesnt fully engage but I am having the opposite problem where I can not get my clutch to disengage. I have the top cable adjuster-adjusted so there is about a nickels (few mm) worth of play where i can pull the clutch lever that much before the cable really starts pulling. With it on the stand when i start it and put it in gear the wheel spins (enough that it is hard to stop the wheel and if i do the bike stalls) even with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and when riding it, the clutch doesnt actually seem to engage until the lever is almost all the way out. I adjusted the cable adjuster and unscrewed it as far as it can unscrew which was considerably further out then it is with the nickels worth of play and it changed nothing aside from the tightness of the lever/cable. On the stand the wheel still spins and stalls if i put enough force on it to stop the wheel and when riding the clutch still seems to engage and the same point (where the lever is almost all the way out). I think when I am on it and put it in gear, it doesnt stall becuase i keep the Rs up and my weight keeps the back tire from turning and slips the clutch?? Any comments, ideas, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ,well , the most obvious is a worn out clutch..BUT it can also be from the plates sticking together, or the springs are beyond their service limit. you can check and change all this at once.... 1) drain the oil 2) take off the clutch cover 3) loosen the screws that hold the pressure plate 4) check the springs (they should be a specific length , over time the length decreases) 5) take out pressure plate 6) check every plate , you can check thickness with a good caliper.( if the pads on the thick discs look worn or are not there the clutch is worn and you need a new set of plates) if they discs are still in good condition try cleaning them with a solvent like alcohol etc...but be carefull you do not use a aggressive solvent as the pads are made from cork and some solvents will damage the cork . If you change the pads the best thing to do is change the metal and the friction pads aswell as the springs. there's a trick to use a clutch that's worn down alot and that is to add another metal plate to the outside so your total stack height becomes higher , however this will only help you 1 or 2 heats after that the clutch is toast either way. hope thats FIXYA.,,,