Sometimes she sparks, most of the time nothing .

i still think u have a ground or stater problem it sounds like its been sitting and buildin up so when you tried it it sparked they will do that.... buy a stator if it doesnt work you can sell it on ebay for what u got in it before you do it check all your ground all of them frame electrical coils battery everthing but my money is still on the stator

i still think u have a ground or stater problem it sounds like its been sitting and buildin up so when you tried it it sparked they will do that.... buy a stator if it doesnt work you can sell it on ebay for what u got in it before you do it check all your ground all of them frame electrical coils battery everthing but my money is still on the stator

tHE MORE THOUGHT i GIVE THIS. tHE HEAVIER i PONDER AND LEAN TOWARDS A BAD GROUND,OOPSsoryy bout that. Ok, No doubt your battery is grounded to your frame, correct? and the engine is grounded to the frame? The intensity of a spark is based on sipply and demand. The store up energy within the coil makes every effort to fuuly discharge on command across the spark plug gap. In order for the apark to have a solid assurance to jump that gap, the grounding of tha park plug has to be good, The wider the gap the harder the spark has to jump. If the coil hasn't the energy to discharge that much energy, it either not try or find another way. So, back to the ground.. The engine is suspended on vibration isolators and those make poor grds. The engine has to ground in a round about way, pedals gears, shafts, etc. Which in reality a poor grd. Try grounding your engine directlt to the battery, You can test the spark by a test wire from the spar plug to the battery negative. Plug out and in plug wire and test lead from the base of the spark plug tang away from the center electrode so it has to leap the gap. If your spark is hotter, The ground is the problem. Good luck. Ned tHE MORE THOUGHT i GIVE THIS. tHE HEAVIER i PONDER AND LEAN TOWARDS A BAD GROUND,OOPSsoryy bout that. Ok, No doubt your battery is grounded to your frame, correct? and the engine is grounded to the frame? The intensity of a spark is based on sipply and demand. The store up energy within the coil makes every effort to fuuly discharge on command across the spark plug gap. In order for the apark to have a solid assurance to jump that gap, the grounding of tha park plug has to be good, The wider the gap the harder the spark has to jump. If the coil hasn't the energy to discharge that much energy, it either not try or find another way. So, back to the ground.. The engine is suspended on vibration isolators and those make poor grds. The engine has to ground in a round about way, pedals gears, shafts, etc. Which in reality a poor grd. Try grounding your engine directlt to the battery, You can test the spark by a test wire from the spar plug to the battery negative. Plug out and in plug wire and test lead from the base of the spark plug tang away from the center electrode so it has to leap the gap. If your spark is hotter, The ground is the problem. Good luck. Ned

when you tap on the componant, are you causing a grounding or breaking a ground? Those units are usually sealed snd unless it was overheated, should not have any kiise or movable parts. Will it still spark if the unit is held away ftom the bike?? try to insulat it s mouting in case its leaking underneath. when you tap on the componant, are you causing a grounding or breaking a ground? Those units are usually sealed snd unless it was overheated, should not have any kiise or movable parts. Will it still spark if the unit is held away ftom the bike?? try to insulat it s mouting in case its leaking underneath.