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FIRST DO NOT SMOKE while working with gasoline I can not express this enough! There are two filters on my 2000 VS 1400 GLP there both located in the inlet on the carb sink needle. You'll need a repair manual they can be found on ebay about $20 + shipping. The seat has to be removed to get to the gas tank bolts (10mm socket) rear seat first then the front then the gas tank bolts. Lift the gas tank you will see the two fuel line's and the petcock turn the petcock flat screw like till its horizontal then remove the fuel lines at the gas tank they can be left in place but do drain them. Air box to carburetor boot's are next. The side cover's need to be removed too. You'l have to remove the carbs one at a time. Before you do this count the number of threads left on the throttle cable where it connects to the throttle. This is critical for carburetor synchronization. Remove the choke cables. Front choke cable is held in place by a phillips head screw remove it the choke assembly should lift off the plunger that feeds extra fuel in the intake stream. The rear threads into the body this is plastic be careful they damage easly. Remove the float bowel drain screw prepare for fuel draining there should be a drain tube on the bottom of the float bowel place the tube into a used soda bottle if it's clean you could drain whats in the bottle into the gas tank. Counter clock wise turn the drain screw out but do not remove it when you see gas in the soda bottle & it stops move on. Once there drain'd turn over the carb remove the 4 phillips head screws you will see the floats they will have to be removed by removing the pin going thew the float towers be very carefull these carb bodys are made from pot metal very brittle & break easily. Once there out of the way you will see the sink needle assembly held in place by another phillips screw remove it the sink needle needs to removed can be done with needle nose pliers then the filter can be seen remove it very carefully either replace or spray it carb cleaner any auto part's store sell it. in the opposite direction of flow that should clean it. Reverse assembly. I hope this helps you fix your own bike a few more suggestion use a big old bathroom towel to work on your carb, parts don't roll away into never never land. Take your time and pictures for reference's if needed.
To change the choke cable, you must take the carb off the engine. Remove the air filter and backing plate. Take the nut off the backside of the choke cable and let the cable come out of the bracket that holds it. Make sure the petcock is turned off and disconnect the fuel hose at the carb. Loosen the throttle and idle cable at the handlebar throttle assembly. Pull the carb out of the intake manifold seal. Work the throttle and idle cables out of their positions in the carb. Bring the carb with the choke cable out and away from the engine. Take the choke cable out of the carb with a 14mm open end wrench. Take the plunger and spring off the old cable and swap it to the new cable and reinstall the choke cable. Put the throttle and idle cables back onto the carb, put a new intake manifold seal on the intake manifold and push the carburetor back into the new seal. Put the choke cable in it's bracket and secure the nut. Be careful and do not over tighten the nut as the plastic cable housing will break. Reconnect the fuel line, the vacuum line, and anything else that was taken off. Replace the air filter backing plate and the air cleaner. Readjust the throttle and idle cables making sure that the throttle operates freely and returns when let go on it's own. Never put any kind of lubricant on the choke cable. There is a knurled wheel that you can use to tighten the cable so that it stays where you put it.
In order to replace the choke cable, you must take the carburetor off. Start by taking the air filter assembly off the engine, including the backing plate. Then, disconnect the fuel line, drop the choke cable from it's bracket on the left side of the bike, and loosen and disconnect the throttle cables. There is a vacuum line that plugs onto either the back of the carburetor or the intake manifold. Once all this is loose, pull the carb out of the intake seal and guide the choke cable out of with the carb.
Now, that you have the carb out, using a 14mm wrench, unscrew the choke cable where it goes into the carb. You'll have to take the plunger and spring off the old cable and put it on the new cable. The screw it back into the carb.
Reconnect the throttle cables and vacuum lines and install the carb back into the intake using a new intake manifold seal. If you don't replace this seal, you may wind up with a vacuum leak and have running problems. Reinstall the fuel line and air cleaner assembly. Adjust the throttle cables and make sure the carb works correctly. Never lubricate the choke cable. If you do, it will not stay out when you pull it out. There is knurled tension wheel behind the knob when you pull the knob out. Tighten or loosen the tension on the cable with this. Do not over-tighten the big nut on the backside or the cable housing will break,, cheap plastic stuff.
Hi- I've had huge problems with choke cables jamming on my XV250 Virago and finally got fed-up with paying dudes to put on lousy cables at $80 per job- only to have 'em jam again in weeks! The problem is that the plastic inner liner eventually melts at the carb end and jams the cable tight. I've had a cable custom made without the plastic liner at the cablemakers advice. They're going to guarantee it to last too!
Undo the Phillips head screw under your choke lever and retrieve the wave washer and other bits therein. The cable, with a large trunnion swaged here will come away from the lever.
The Carby end is more difficult,
You can opt to remove the fuel tank, pump, cable bellcrank bracket (screwed to the top of the carb) for better access. If your fingers are small enough you might try without so nuch removal but your objective is to unscrew a hexagonal 'nipple' that holds the cable/spring and choke plunger in the carb.
Pull back the dustboot over the cable and you'll see it.
You should be able to use an open end wrench (about 11mm?) to loosen it then use fingetips to unscrew it (if loose enough!) take care when removing the whole lot from the carb- the spring and choke plunger sit on the end of the cable held only by a small 3mm swage. remove these parts from the cable and pull the cable out through its guides along the frame. Assembly is the reverse. I hope this helps some.
Steve
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