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A manual choke utilizes a lever and cable assembly to open and close the choke plate. If your mower has the manual set up check the adjustment by pushing the lever to the stop in one direction. The choke plate should be either all the way open or all the way closed. If not check the cable hold down clamp, there is a retaining screw that holds a small clamp over the cable to hold the cable housing in place. Now if the choke is not adjusted properly then watch to see which way is not going full motion.Then loosen the retaining screw and slide the housing one way or the other to achieve either full open or full close and retighten the retaining screw. Now remove the spark plug and look at the electrode end and see what color the porcelain is, if it is black then it needs to be replaced or cleaned. If it is white then there is not enough fuel and the engine requires more choke to draw more fuel when the engine is cold, remember that after the engine starts and warms up to open the choke so it does not flood the engine - you will see black exhaust qnd the engine will not run smooth,
Hi, when you say you cleaned the carb, did you strip it down and blow all the jets out with compressed air? If so, check that you have fuel flowing into the carb. If all this is ok check the valve clearances. Regards Phil.
The choke is connected to the back of the carb, it closes off the air supply to produce an overly rich fuel mixture to aid starting, if it has a choke ( not all engines do ) there will be a mechanical arm clearly marked on the side of the carb, lawn mowers will normally have the choke operation on the throttle lever, if there is no choke decak on the throttle lever the engine may well have a reb primer button on the carb, or an automatic choke if not.
If it's a butterfly style choke with a plate on the back of the carb, remove the boot that goes to the air cleaner and you'll be able to see the choke plate. If you can't get your head in there to see, stick a finger in there and operate the lever. When it's blocking the throat, it's on.
If the lever is in the front of the carb, it's not really a choke. It's an enrichening valve, that controls a brass valve that opens a port to allow extra fuel into the carb. Whatever direction of the lever pulls it up, that's on. Good luck, cool old enduro!
It is not listed as a replacement part on the carburetor. You would have to remove the choke plate, and the choke shaft from the carburetor. These parts are press-fitted into the carb housing and the choke lever is also press fitted onto the choke plate shaft.
Without much other information of what has been done, I would start with the choke system. The choke cable may be detached or far out of adjustment. With a helper see if you can watch the choke cable move the choke lever on the carbs when you move the choke lever to full choke. Cables do break and or stretch. If that is the case then reconnect, replace, or adjust as necessary. If the choke lever and carb choke system is moving correctly then the problem may be in the carburators themselves.
Sounds like the choke is not closing. Perhaps it has become detached from the manual throttle.
A simple test you can perform is to let it cool for an hour or more, remove the air filter and cover the air intake with your hand (making your hand a manual choke). If it starts right up, then the real choke is the problem.
There are two valves that you can see from the top of the carb. The one closest to the air cleaner is the choke. The other one is the throttle. Both valves operate through 90 degrees of rotation. The choke should close all of the way with the lever in the start position and be open all of the way with the lever in any other position.
Three (3) possible carbs were available on your machine.
If you have:
Walbro model WT-606 carb, the choke and throttle levers are available in kit form (which leads me to believe the spacer comes with them). Throttle lever kit part #530071726 and choke lever kit part #530071725.
If you have:
ZAMA model C1Q-W11 carb, the choke AND throttle levers are BOTH a part of the carb itself. (Would need a whole carb to get your part.) Complete carb part #530071465.
If you have:
ZAMA model C1Q-W11C carb, the choke and throttle levers are available in kit form (which leads me to believe the spacer comes with them). Throttle lever kit part #530071715 and choke lever kit part #530071716.