Question about 1999 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder

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My front brakes will not pressure up, what do I need to do, and how do I do it?

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Usaly I will use a small amount of air and I maid a old brake fluid cap with a hose coupler so I can hook It together . I turn the pressure down to 2lb and that all , make sure you have fluid in the brake tank then open and air should come out if not then you have a collapse line internally. If the line is good pressure will come out and then fluid, I would even use a pound of air pressure you can make up some attachment with a hand pump.

Posted on May 17, 2014

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I'm not into motorcycles... but from my experience with cars... note the following.... brake fluid is hydroscopic (it absorbs water). I would drain the brake reservoir... put in new fluid and bleed the brakes to remove any air (which can and would be compressed) in the system. I hope this helps.

Posted on May 17, 2014

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1 Answer

Is it possible that the brake booster is the one responsible for loss of pressure during braking??


Make sure you don't have a leak in a line or in a caliper that is by passing the cylinder. If you can't find any fluid leaks then I would change the master cylinder for the brakes as it may be losing pressure in the master cylinder its self. In addition, be sure you don't have air in the brake lines. You may want to check for air in lines before changing the master cylinder, either way you will need to bleed the brakes.

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1984 Honda Accord Brake pedal sunk to the floor and had to push extra hard to stop. Replaced master cylinder and bled brakes but right front had no fluid or air coming though the lines. So I replaced...


The problem is in the master cylinder. The MC is in effect two cylinders in one, one cylinder for the front brakes and one for the rear (one in front of the other). When the MC gets a bit long in the tooth pressure from one cylinder can leak past it's seal into the other cylinder or into the reseviour. The MC is leaking internally, but not externally, so you see no signs of leakage and don't lose any fluid as leaked fluid ends up back in the reseviour. Sometimes the symptom will be evident and other times not, on my car the pedal tends to sink sometimes on hot days but is always firm on cooler days(?). It really is something that does need to be addressed urgently as a matter of safety, because pressure is leaking from one cylinder the pressure in that cylinder won't be high enough. This will affect front to rear brake bias which can have a substantial adverse affect on braking performance, and may cause premature brake lock up at either the front or rear (not sure which end), which could cause loss of control (i.e. massive understeer or oversteer under brakes). $700 does sound at least a bit steep to supply and fit a new MC, and bleed the brakes. Here in Australia new Accord MCs are around AUD$180 or so. The pedal should be quite firm with little free play with a braking system in good condition, if yours typically isn't (before you had that sinking feeling) then the brakes probably need attention (bleeding most likely, but could also be a soft rubber hose, causing the hose to bulge under pressure, not good as it may burst).

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Brake system failure


I think brake proportional Valve (or Brake pressure regulator) which usually a part of Master cylinder is suspicious.
It regulates pressure to Front and Rear brake line.

If I were you, I try to draw air from Master-cylinder side (not Caliper side).
(Bleed from connector between Master-cylinder and pipe, same way as caliper. someone keep pushing brake then you lose connector then tight. Don't forget to put towel under master cylinder to catch brake fluid)
If air trapped in Proportional valve (pressure regulator), pressure won't relay to rear brake line but only front side.
Front has two separate line from master cylinder (right and left) but rear goes in one line from master cylinder then separate at rear.

Did you noticed both rear brake dragged when it's hot day ?
Because when air get hot, air expand and pushes to caliper and drag but not respond to your pedal.
(calipers don't respond when you push pedal, but it's pushes calipers by itself even you are not pushing pedal, when it's hot because air expand)
Sometimes, seal get old and lose pressure for only one side (front or rear).

if this happened after you did brake job, or you notice your brake was vapor locked (too much brake on hot day then brake fluid boiled), maybe air bleed and whole fluid change may solve.
if you didn't have any unusual activity but it gradually losing pressure to rear, I suspect master cylinder (proportional valve seal).

Sorry I don't have exact e46 master cylinder diagram but basic diagram, hope you can understand what I am talking about.
Picture shows "leak" but this case "Air" in somewhere in pink.
or lose seal on rear piston.

25989474-goldldc3aki35lcvobofcxjr-2-0.gif

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Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Ducati despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Ducati Suite Brake Bleeding
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you need to bleed the brakes,starting from the wheel that's the fartherest away from your master cylinder. if you opened a bleeder valve when you replaced the front brakes,you've let air into the whole brake system.you will need 2 people to bleed the air out of the brakes.1to pump the pedal up for pressure and you to release the pressure of air from the bleeder valves on each wheel.start from the wheel that's the fartherest away from the brake master cylinder. passenger rear wheel.have someone pump the brake pedal up [pump3times]and hold pressure on the brake pedal,you open bleeder valve on the wheel to let the air out,or until the brake pedal goes to the floorboard[never let the person who is pumping the brake pedal to take the pressure off the brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder valve closed.or else,you're waisting your time. you may have to bleed each wheel twice,or until you see clear brake fluid come out with no bubbles or spurting from each wheel. after you're done with passenger rear wheel,move to driverside rear wheel,then go to passenger front,then drivers front,which is last.when you replaced the brakes,you made a common mistake,you opened the brake lines,which let air into the brake system.it's a very common mistake so don't feel bad.just go back and bleed the brake system.after you do this,you will not make the same mistake again,i guarantee it. thank you for choosing fixya.com and if you need further assistance,please repost your question to fixya.com i'm usually here at least 12 hours a day to assist people for free.that's just me thanks!

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1996 Nissan Quest GXE model. Bleeded brakes. No parts replaced. Brake works normally. No drag. With ABS. Now, right rear wheel and left front wheel locks. left rear wheel and right front wheel turns...


you need to first adjust rear brakes per TSB in our file, 98-14=4 I think. (If you replaced or adjusted rear brakes)

Then bleed again, but you may need to loosen the pressure valve on the master cylinder, or apply very hard pressure on the dowm stroke with the front bleeder on the claiper open just slightly. You have to overcome the the valve spring in it as it is deisgned to send pressure to the rears before the fronts to allow the rears to engage at the same time as the fronts. It takes higher pressure on bleeding to over come.

go here for help

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

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1 Answer

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