Question about Harley Davidson FLHR Road king Motorcycles

1 Answer

2009 HD roadking EFI problems bike will only idle??

Dealer told me to turn ignition on and off at 5 second intervals to no avail. then heard nightmare tails of law suites and bikes on hwys and loosing throttle control on hwys. leading to part changing by dealers with no resolution by HD. I took off airfilter to expose throttle control modulator, wiggled plug going into the throttle control actuator along with wiring harness pinch tie on opposite end of the TCA and motor started and ran fine. i started up half a dozen times and seemed to work fine. but have not taken it out on the road yet. Id appreciate any feed back or historic knowledge about this. HD is keeping closed mouth about this issue but i hear their wiring harnesses have multible pinch points and connector problems.

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 3,506 Answers

Lots of bikes have been going into limp home safe mode. My only experience with a correction has been replacement of the hand grip actuators.

Posted on Oct 16, 2014

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: cylinder issue

Well I figured it out. The carbs were rejetted at some point by a previous owner and the bike was running richer than normal. I recently did a tune up on the bike and put in new OEM spark plugs. The oem plugs were getting fouled. I put the old plugs back in which are a step hotter than oem and the bike ran again. Im just relieved it wasnt anything major. Thanks for the advice.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2005 Harley Davidson engine in a custom

I would check the coil first and see if it needs replaced .If it's new and you still have reciept ,take and get a replacement coil for the one you bought and make sure your wires coming out of everything have power be tracing the system to see if there might be something shorting.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Runs great when cold, hesitates when hot.

Hi mmagliozzi
I bought a cbr 600 fy new back in 2000. After about 3 years I've always had the same problem in summer when sitting in traffic, ie. anything that put the temperature up to about half way causing the fan to cut in. I thought it was a carb problem. also thought it could be the spark plug caps(coils built in breaking down only when warm).
Anyway, mine had become so bad recently that it had become almost unrideable as it kept cutting out and spluttering, only at tickover and low revs. Anything over 3000rpm it was fine. I thought it might be an electrical problem so put a meter across the battery. It was only showing 11.5v when running at tickover. Rev it up to 2000rpm it was showing about 12.5v. It should at this rpm show more. If you have the same problem you can rule out the alternator by taking the plug of the rectifier/regulator( under the seat cowling, you can access it by removing the seat) and putting the the leads of the meter across the yellow wires. test all 3 wires. ie if you were to number them 1, 2, 3 then test form 1 to 2, 2 to 3 then 1 to 3. You should get somewhere in the region of 20v at tickover and 50v at 5000rpm. If this figure varies by a large amount between each wire ( alternator winding) then the alternator is the likely problem. But i reckon it will be your regulator/rectifier. They are not cheap at £141 from honda. You can get them from ebay but the guy at honda (mechanic)reckons they are inferior and he has had to repair bikes with boiled batteries and burnt wiring looms. This maybe nonsense but I took the safe route. Whatever one you do decide to get(if it is the rectifier/regulator at fault) then make sure it is the cast ally heat sink type not the original one which has the gubbins incased in rubber.I reckon its a design fault with the originals hence the updated replacement which disippates the heat better.
Going back to diagnosing the problem. I found mine by running the bike stationary until the fan cut in, make sure your lights are on then operate the front or rear brake light. by doing this you are loading the electrical curcuit. When I did this my bike cut out straight away or very nearly did so. Yours might not if your battery is very good. If you notice it running worse then I would bet that you have the same problem.
Hope this helps.
Dan

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2006 road king engine heat

First of all, you need to install a temp gauge as, even if your motor is running within the red-line (below 300degF, preferably lower than 280) the exhaust can still be several hundred degrees. Even if you add most cooling units that claim to lower engine temperatures, lowering your engine temp as much as 20-40 degrees may lower the exhaust as much as 100 degrees or possibly a little more however, lowering exhaust pipe temps from 5-600 degrees down to 4-500 degrees is going to help your engine but, it is still going to produce a lot of heat radiating to the human body.
Have you tried the heat diverter panels that fit on both sides of the upper frame. they are made to divert heat away from your legs. Also, most of the Harley drill teams use a heat blanket that does the same thing. It works a little better but, it doesn't look quite as nice.
I have a new cooling system that actually does work well and is designed specifically for the conditions you described and it has worked wonderfully. It keeps the engine cool enough that the rear cylinder cut-out never even actuates. It completely eliminated the engine overheating issues. None the less, it is still hot on me even though I never hit the red line anymore. If your interested, I can give you the product name. I'll check this site occasionally to see if you respond.
Heat is one of those negatives that are going to occur when riding on an air-cooled bike with a V-twin as the pipes have to be mounted high under the rider. There are a couple companies that claim to produce internal ceramic pipes that supposedly removes nearly all heat down the pipe and out the rear yet, they will be very costly and I haven't heard any actual feedback from anyone using them so, it would be an expensive investment that may or may not remedy your issue.
Wish there was better news. If I had actual oil and/or engine temps to go on, I could possibly give you a better answer. Good luck..................Erik

Posted on Jul 09, 2009

  • 330 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2009 kawasaki klx250s. After starting the

Fuel pump (if you have one) weak or has trash that can move . intermitten short, make sure all fuses are tight not just look good. Probably a re-occuring problem with trash or water in fuel.(fill fuel from clean fuel can ) If it was trash and cleaning carbs made a difference, clean tank filter and lines too.

Posted on Mar 27, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

2009 roadking EFI problems --- starts up but only idles


Limp home mode, possibly the hand grip but if you have been messing with the throttle body module and got ti working it may be the actuator. Please post a comment when you do get it figured out.

May 15, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHR Road king Motorcycles

1 Answer

2009 HD roadking EFI problems bike will only idle??


A few things:

Where the wiring plugs into the Throttle body, there have been some cases of a couple of the electrical connector pins corroding, so remove the connector, check (and if needed, clean) the pins, and use some dielectric grease on them before reassembly.

Do you have a check engine light on?
Does it come on at startup for a few seconds, then go out?

Also, have you checked for any error codes?

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, sppedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module) [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

If you do pull any error codes, repost them for diagnosis.

May 15, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic...

1 Answer

2012roadking1963


Another (slight) possibility is there wasn't a perfect connection between the battery terminal and the post of the battery.
By removing and replacing the battery, maybe you removed a little "gunk" inbetween the connection, and retightened everything up good.

Finally, the "check engine" light for 3-4 seconds "might" just be a glitch.
The best check is to pull the error codes (DTCs) and see what (if) the computer stored any errors.

Nov 20, 2013 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

I own a 2009 street glide, when i go to start the bike the engine light will come on sometimes it will go off sometimes it wont, when the light go's off and i start the bike the engine light will come on...


Try new battery, or try load test and drain test, the efi and starter drain the batt on start up causing check engine light, mention this to your dealer as they do no about the issue. you can also put in a switch to turn your headlight off if you have auto on, also bad earth can bring on the check light.

Nov 04, 2013 | Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide...

1 Answer

520230. 31520193. 7Polaris 550 Xp eps 2009About 20 hours on unitStored indoorsI understand one code is Idle air and the other is power steering is disabled or not functioning. First I would try and...


Diagnostic Mode
The diagnostic mode is for informational purposes only. Please return your ATV to your dealer for all major repairs.
As long as the gauge is in the diagnostic mode, the wrench icon will remain lit.
To leave the diagnostic mode, turn the key switch off and on.
NOTE: Any movement of the tires will also take the machine out ofthe diagnostic mode.
To enter the diagnostics mode:
1. Turn the key switch off and wait 10 seconds.
2. Set the park brake and shift the transmission to neutral.
3. Hold the mode/reverse override button and turn the key switch on.
4. Release the switch as soon as the display is activated.
The initial screen display refers to the software version installed in
your ATV. This information is displayed briefly.
Use the mode/reverse override button to toggle through the diagnostic
screens.

Screen 1: Battery voltage

Screen 2: Tachometer

Screen 3: AWD diagnostic
This gauge indicates whether or not current is flowing through the
AWD coil (only on models with switchable AWD).

Screen 4: Gear circuit diagnostic
This screen displays the resistance value (in ohms) being read at thegear switch input of the gauge.
46 FEATURES
Instrument Cluster
Rider Information Center
Diagnostic Mode

Screen 5: Programmable service interval
The purpose of the programmable service interval is to provide the consumer and dealer with a convenient reminder for routine maintenance. When your vehicle leaves the factory, this feature is set at 50 hours. You must enable the programmable service interval before it
can be used.
Once the service interval mode is set with the hours when service is due, the hours of actual engine operation are subtracted from the set
hours until 0 is reached. When the counter reaches 0, the wrench icon will flash quickly for 5 seconds each time the vehicle is started as a reminder that the periodic maintenance is due.
To set the hours, press and hold the mode/override button until the wrench icon flashes. When it begins to flash, release the button. The setting will increase by one hour each time the button is pressed.
Pressing and holding the button will allow the numbers to escalate much faster. When the desired time increment is displayed, release the button and wait for the wrench to stop flashing. When the wrench stops blinking, your service hours are set.
NOTE: If you scroll past the intended number, hold the button down until the count turns over to 0. You can then reset the number.
If the service interval is enabled on your ATV and you wish to turn it off, toggle to the service interval mode. Press and hold the mode button for approximately 7 seconds until the word OFF appears in the
Rider Information Center.

Jun 28, 2013 | Polaris 2009 Sportsman 550 EFI XP With EPS

1 Answer

Hd 96 roadking efi. Idles ruff and when given gas in gear wants to die unless i give it full throttle. Put in new wires and plugs and after a few minutes of running plugs were black. Also back fires when...


Check the air filter is clean, and the ignition for correct operation. The plug indications are that the engine is running rich (too much fuel) or that the ignition spark is weak.

Mar 17, 2012 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

2 Answers

I have a hyosung 2008 gt 250 r fi model. when i start the engine,idle jumps to 5000-6000 rpm . i checked the isc selenoid and while the ignition switch off the selenoid long,while ignition switch on the...


This doesn't sound like an electrical problem. It sounds more like an air leak between the carburetor and the cylinder. Air that has not gone through the carburetor makes the fuel/air mixture lean. This causes the engine to run super fast and hotter as well. Check all rubber fittings and seals between the carb and the cylinder. Be sure the clamps are tight and all mounting bolts are tight.

May 11, 2011 | 2008 Hyosung GT250R

1 Answer

1994 FLHR RoadKing, 1340cc, engine miss


this is going to sound weird but if your bike has a crankshaft location sensor it is a litte one screw held on wired sensor up by your oil filter that connects to your regulator on front of bike it cuts power to your coil and ecm if it cant read right had same problem on my bike ran like a champ after that

Apr 26, 2009 | Harley Davidson 1994 Harley-davidson...

2 Answers

High idle below 72 degress


If this is still a problem. I had a similar issues with my 06 Road King. Mine ran extremly hot and the idle was horrible too. On cold mornings five miles in I had to get off the bike because it felt like I was going to burn up. Two years dealing with Harley dealerships, who were completely worthless, and nothing. I even got to the point I told them to come pick the bike up I was not making anymore payments. Well that did not work.

I called a chopper shop, PeteG's in Longwood FL, told them what was happening. I had the carb drilled out, a new breather put on, and pipes (of course those were what the hell). Anyway, since the work was done, I don't run hot, my idle is normal, and fuel consumption has improved by almost six miles per gal. I just hit 43 mp/g this week. Since the repairs were comlpeted about three weeks ago I've put almost 1500 miles on the bike no problems yet.

One note... Do not deal with Harley if your bike is out of warranty. Ask around and find the names of some independant shops. Ask them. The benefit is they usually will give you a straight answer and two they cost a lot less.

Hope this helps.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

Not finding what you are looking for?
Motorcycles Logo

Related Topics:

96 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Harley Davidson Experts

Arnie Burke
Arnie Burke

Level 3 Expert

4514 Answers

Gills Lango

Level 2 Expert

195 Answers

Mike

Level 3 Expert

4336 Answers

Are you a Harley Davidson Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...