Question about 2007 Harley Davidson XL1200R Sportster Roadster

1 Answer

The bike won't crank over even with a new battery fully charged.

I have rearranged the positive and negative cables thinking that maybe they weren't connecting correctly. Turn on the key, getting power, push start and nothing but a click!

Posted by Anonymous on

1 Answer

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 3,506 Answers

Be sure the battery is hooked up properly. If loud click the solenoid is clicking if soft small click it is the relay. If the solenoid id making the click it may have bad , corroded points that will not pass sufficient amperage to operate the starter. Do a voltage drop test to locate the problem.

First do a voltage reading on the battery and note what it is.

Using a voltmeter attach the red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which would be the positive post of the battery and attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit (if testing a starter circuit this would be the terminal on the starter, not the solenoid). THEN try to activate the starter and observe the meter reading. The meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in potential between the source and the destination. An ideal circuit voltage drop reading would be 1 volt or less. If there is an open in the circuit (i.e. NO electricity is reaching the terminal) the voltmeter should read source voltage volts which means all the voltage was dropped. A normal good starter circuit should not show more than a one volt drop. If more than 1 volt is dropped there is a problem somewhere in the circuitry before the starter terminal. In this case leaving the red voltmeter lead on the battery positive post, move the negative voltmeter lead to the solenoid stud where the battery cable attaches and activate the starter circuit again. If the voltage reading is now 1 volt or less clean, repair, tighten the starter solenoid to starter terminal stud connections and test again and if no change clean/repair the internal solenoid contacts or replace the solenoid with a new/good one. If there is still a voltage drop greater than 1 volt move the negative voltmeter lead from the solenoid terminal stud to the actual battery cable terminal end at the solenoid terminal stud and again activate the starter circuit. If there is a 1 volt or less reading the battery cable terminal end and/or solenoid terminal stud and/or the connection between the two is faulty, loose, corroded or etc. Clean and tighten and retest. If there is still more than a 1 volt reading on the voltmeter the problem is a loose or corroded or otherwise bad connection between the battery cable terminal end and the battery positive post or the battery cable itself is bad. Clean and tighten the battery cable terminal and battery positive post and test again. If there is still more than a one volt reading on the voltmeter the battery cable is bad and will need to be replaced.

If there is less than a 1 volt reading when the test is done at the starter terminal the circuit up to that point is good so the next step will be to do a negative or ground circuit voltage drop test by connecting the negative or black voltmeter lead to the most negative point which is normally the negative battery post (or the closest thing thereto if, like some Sportsters, the battery post is hard or impossible to get to) and then connect the positive or red voltmeter lead to the starter mounting studs. Then activate the starter circuit again and if the voltage reading is greater than 1 volt clean the battery negative cable ends and battery post and negative cable to motorcycle frame or other grounding point, tighten same and similarly the starter mounting points and studs because there is a problem with the starter ground (could be looseness, corrosion, powder coat/paint problems etc). If the voltage reading is 1 volt or less than 1 volt in this test the ground circuit is okay and it will be necessary to perform a starter current draw test on the vehicle (and/or a starter current free draw test on the bench). If the results are within the specifications for the starter in these tests remove the spark plugs, raise the rear wheel so it can spin unimpeded, put the transmission in 5th gear and rotate the rear wheel to check for engine, transmission, primary and/or crankshaft resistance/bind. If the results are not within the amperage specifications for the particular starter replace or repair the starter motor to bring within the system amperage specifications.

Posted on Aug 31, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: No power when I try to start bike, just a click…

Check the battery connections. Remove, clean and reinstall them. You probably had them off doing the wiring and they aren't making a good connection now. Always remove the negative first and install it last.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

cape cod bob
  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Sportster 1200 Custom won't start

probably starter relay. clicking it it trying to throw over the relay switch, remove it if you can and bang it on the ground and put it back and try it. if not try banging it with handle of screwdriver or something you can get to it with. let me know what happens.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have Harley Davidson 2000 Sportster 883. I

Neg cable corroded thru.
I bet you have 12v at the battery and less at the other end of the neg cable.
I had the same problem.

Posted on May 02, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: harley davidson battery went dead after riding

1.What?

2.What?
You charged the battery off of the battery charger with a trickle charge. The battery wouldn't charge while you're riding, because your alternator took a cr@p.
(Sorry if I seem gruff, but I'm an old biker, and Harleys are all I ride. I'm also a Harley mechanic.
Shhhh! I don't want that to get around! lol!)

3.Battery is at 13.4 volts now? What is the specific gravity of the acid in each cell? Don't have a hydrometer? Do you have a load tester? No? Since you measured the voltage, do you have a multimeter?

Test the voltage with the bike running. It should be around 14.6 volts when charging, less with the battery fully charged.
Don't get the correct reading, then you better look at alternator replacement. (Regulator is built in)

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Battery is charged, but bike will not start. When

First, check the "Run/Stop" switch on the right handlebar switch housing. Make sure it's in the "Run" position. If it is, your starter relay may not be working. The relay is exactly like those on your car, a one inch plastic cube. Now, where it's located, I'm not sure. It could be under the seat or behind either of the two side covers on your bike. Once you find it, turn the switch on, hold on to the relay, and push the start button. You should feel the relay click. If it does click but the starter does not engage, you need to test the voltage coming out of the relay.

To test the output of the relay, look at the end of your starter from the right side of your bike. You'll see a five sided plate on the end of the starter solenoid. At the top of the plate, you'll see a single wire plugged into the starter. Unplug the wire and stick a test light probe in the connector on the end of the wire. Again, turn the switch on and press the start button. If the light lights up, your relay is good. If not, the relay is probably bad.

To do a final test on the starter, remove the five sided plate by removing the three small bolts that secure it. You'll see a plunger inside the solenoid. Make sure the bike's transmission is in neutral. Using a large screwdriver, push the plunger into the starter solenoid. The starter should engage and turn the engine over regardless of whether the switch is "on" or "off". Make certain that you push the plunger all the way in. If the starter does not turn, you starter is bad.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Nov 24, 2010

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