Question about Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard Motorcycles

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Gasoline on 2004 harley softail - FXST Softail Standard Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 3,506 Answers

Use highest grade ie octane fuel you can and limit the ethanol content

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Mitchy123
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SOURCE: 1998 harley davidson softail custom primary cover bolt pattern

Are u asking for the torque sequence for the outer primary cover ?

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: MY 1990 HARLEY SOFTAIL HAS NO SPARK BATTERY IS NEW AND IT TURNS OVER

Either the stator plate, or coil is not getting power. First thing I would check would be power from the coil with an ohmmeter.

Posted on May 28, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: How do you adjust clutch on 2004 Harley Davidson

Get the bike standing as straight up as you can without danger of it falling over. This keeps any oil from running out of the primary. Remove the "derby cover" from the outer primary cover giving you access to the clutch adjuster screw in the center of the clutch pressure plate in the primary.

On the clutch cable, slide the rubber boot up or down to expose the adjuster in the cable. It should be on the down tubes of the frame under the fuel tanks. Loosen the lock nut and screw the cable adjuster in as far as it will go thus shortening the cable.

At the clutch back in the primary cover, you'll see a screw that takes a hex allen wrench with a lock nut on it in the center of the clutch pressure plate. Loosen the lock nut and back it off a bit. Screw the screw inwards until you feel a resistance. You want to adjust this in until you feel a resistance, not to the point to where it starts releasing the clutch. Back the screw back out and do this enough times so that you know you are just going to the point of resistance. Turn the screw inward until you get to the point of resistance and then back the screw out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the nut down.

Now, adjust the clutch cable adjuster out making the cable longer You want to adjust the cable until you have about 1/8 inch freeplay at the clutch lever. Lock the cable lock nut and slide the rubber cover over the adjuster. Test ride the bike. If the clutch does not engage exactly where you want it, use the cable adjuster to fine tune where the clutch engages by lengthing or shortening the cable.

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: harley davidson flstc heritage softail 1997

The fork oil is a very specific job needing a manual and a special tool, I don't want to insult anyones mechanical knowledge but if you have never done it before, best to take somewhere else. Engine oil on the other hand is easy, the drain tube to any softail is on the right side by where the frame meets the swing arm, has somekind of plug in it. Start and run bike for a little while, long enough to get it warm but not hot. Remove fill plug and then remove plug in drain line. Using a peice of cardboard or something put in between filter and frame , directing the oil to your drain pan instead of where ever it goes. Put 1 qt oil back in (after everything is reinstalled) start the bike and make sure the oil light goes out, when it does shut bike off and fill to the point that when it is standing upright you get a little oil on the tip of your finger, over filling may result in loss of oil cap from pressure (been there)

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace rear brake pads on Harley softail

Remove any saddlebags or whatever might be in the way as to impede your access to the rear brake caliper. Remove the two bolts that holds the brake caliper in the caliper bracket. Set the caliper aside so that the hose is not crimped or the caliper is hanging by the hose. The hose can be damaged on the inside and cause the brake to fail to release.

Look at the pads and the anti-rattle hardware and see how it all fits into the caliper bracket. Once you know how it goes, replace the pads and hardware.

Now, you must compress the piston back into the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to compress the piston into the caliper. Use rags or thin strips of wood to protect the paint and finish on the caliper. Once you have the piston fully compressed, replace it on the caliper bracket while being careful not to disturb the pads or hardware. Insert and tighten the screws to 25 foot pounds of torque.

Slowly depress the rear brake foot pedal and release it. Continue to do this until you get a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Failure to test for proper braking action prior to riding the bike can lead to severe injury or death. Make sure you do this job correctly.

Good Luck
steve

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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