Question about Harley Davidson FLHRCI Road King Classic Motorcycles
Dealer told me to turn ignition on and off at 5 second intervals to no avail. then heard nightmare tails of law suites and bikes on hwys and loosing throttle control on hwys. leading to part changing by dealers with no resolution by HD. I took off airfilter to expose throttle control modulator, wiggled plug going into the throttle control actuator along with wiring harness pinch tie on opposite end of the TCA and motor started and ran fine. i started up half a dozen times and seemed to work fine. but have not taken it out on the road yet. Id appreciate any feed back or historic knowledge about this. HD is keeping closed mouth about this issue but i here their wiring harnesses have multible pinch points and connector problems.
A few things:
Where the wiring plugs into the Throttle body, there have been some cases of a couple of the electrical connector pins corroding, so remove the connector, check (and if needed, clean) the pins, and use some dielectric grease on them before reassembly.
Do you have a check engine light on?
Does it come on at startup for a few seconds, then go out?
Also, have you checked for any error codes?
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, sppedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module) [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
7 - Record the codes.
8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.
9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
If you do pull any error codes, repost them for diagnosis.
Posted on May 15, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cylinder issue
Well I figured it out. The carbs were rejetted at some point by a previous owner and the bike was running richer than normal. I recently did a tune up on the bike and put in new OEM spark plugs. The oem plugs were getting fouled. I put the old plugs back in which are a step hotter than oem and the bike ran again. Im just relieved it wasnt anything major. Thanks for the advice.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
I would check the coil first and see if it needs replaced .If it's new and you still have reciept ,take and get a replacement coil for the one you bought and make sure your wires coming out of everything have power be tracing the system to see if there might be something shorting.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
I bought a cbr 600 fy new back in 2000. After about 3 years I've always had the same problem in summer when sitting in traffic, ie. anything that put the temperature up to about half way causing the fan to cut in. I thought it was a carb problem. also thought it could be the spark plug caps(coils built in breaking down only when warm).
Anyway, mine had become so bad recently that it had become almost unrideable as it kept cutting out and spluttering, only at tickover and low revs. Anything over 3000rpm it was fine. I thought it might be an electrical problem so put a meter across the battery. It was only showing 11.5v when running at tickover. Rev it up to 2000rpm it was showing about 12.5v. It should at this rpm show more. If you have the same problem you can rule out the alternator by taking the plug of the rectifier/regulator( under the seat cowling, you can access it by removing the seat) and putting the the leads of the meter across the yellow wires. test all 3 wires. ie if you were to number them 1, 2, 3 then test form 1 to 2, 2 to 3 then 1 to 3. You should get somewhere in the region of 20v at tickover and 50v at 5000rpm. If this figure varies by a large amount between each wire ( alternator winding) then the alternator is the likely problem. But i reckon it will be your regulator/rectifier. They are not cheap at £141 from honda. You can get them from ebay but the guy at honda (mechanic)reckons they are inferior and he has had to repair bikes with boiled batteries and burnt wiring looms. This maybe nonsense but I took the safe route. Whatever one you do decide to get(if it is the rectifier/regulator at fault) then make sure it is the cast ally heat sink type not the original one which has the gubbins incased in rubber.I reckon its a design fault with the originals hence the updated replacement which disippates the heat better.
Going back to diagnosing the problem. I found mine by running the bike stationary until the fan cut in, make sure your lights are on then operate the front or rear brake light. by doing this you are loading the electrical curcuit. When I did this my bike cut out straight away or very nearly did so. Yours might not if your battery is very good. If you notice it running worse then I would bet that you have the same problem.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 23, 2009
SOURCE: 2006 road king engine heat
First of all, you need to install a temp gauge as, even if your motor is running within the red-line (below 300degF, preferably lower than 280) the exhaust can still be several hundred degrees. Even if you add most cooling units that claim to lower engine temperatures, lowering your engine temp as much as 20-40 degrees may lower the exhaust as much as 100 degrees or possibly a little more however, lowering exhaust pipe temps from 5-600 degrees down to 4-500 degrees is going to help your engine but, it is still going to produce a lot of heat radiating to the human body.
Have you tried the heat diverter panels that fit on both sides of the upper frame. they are made to divert heat away from your legs. Also, most of the Harley drill teams use a heat blanket that does the same thing. It works a little better but, it doesn't look quite as nice.
I have a new cooling system that actually does work well and is designed specifically for the conditions you described and it has worked wonderfully. It keeps the engine cool enough that the rear cylinder cut-out never even actuates. It completely eliminated the engine overheating issues. None the less, it is still hot on me even though I never hit the red line anymore. If your interested, I can give you the product name. I'll check this site occasionally to see if you respond.
Heat is one of those negatives that are going to occur when riding on an air-cooled bike with a V-twin as the pipes have to be mounted high under the rider. There are a couple companies that claim to produce internal ceramic pipes that supposedly removes nearly all heat down the pipe and out the rear yet, they will be very costly and I haven't heard any actual feedback from anyone using them so, it would be an expensive investment that may or may not remedy your issue.
Wish there was better news. If I had actual oil and/or engine temps to go on, I could possibly give you a better answer. Good luck..................Erik
Posted on Jul 09, 2009
Fuel pump (if you have one) weak or has trash that can move . intermitten short, make sure all fuses are tight not just look good. Probably a re-occuring problem with trash or water in fuel.(fill fuel from clean fuel can ) If it was trash and cleaning carbs made a difference, clean tank filter and lines too.
Posted on Mar 27, 2010
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