Question about 2005 Yamaha yZ 250 F

1 Answer

Why is there no rear brake pressure after master cylinder change?

Had brake issues last season, ended up being the master cylinder reservoir sight glass was cracked. I just used some glue for temp repair and it worked, but obviously by the 3rd ride it got hot enough and the rest of it melted off and the brake pressure was gone again. Ordered a used master cylinder on ebay and it looks fine and holds fluid. I threw it in place of the old one and when I try to bleed it the brake pedal just goes right down and doesn't seem to build pressure. Is it air or could the innards of the master cylinder need to be replaced or swapped over from my other one? Help Please

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  • Ryan Blevins
    Ryan Blevins May 17, 2014

    Ok so i rebuilt the cylinder and the old one had a lot of dirt and dust under the rubber cap and all the way to the first seal on the spring inside the cylinder. Cleaned it up really good as well, everything looks fine, put it in and the same thing... I'll do the bleed from the rear nipple and it lets fluid out just fine when I pump the brakes then hold and release, but there's zero pressure against the brake pedal. I even took the tire off and pushed the caliper piston cup all the way in with the reservoir lid off and it started to fill up, but still no pressure. Could it be air, or something else wrong with the master cylinder or caliper? I also noticed that the slide pin at the rear of the caliper might be leaking a little, but that wouldn't have anything to do with the pressure for the brake system would it?

  • Strech
    Strech May 17, 2014

    "the slide pin at the rear of the caliper might be leaking a little" If it's leaking fluid out, it MIGHT be allowing air in. Otherwise, some system just take a lot of bleeding to get all the air out. Also, after pushing the caliper's piston in, it might take 3-5 or more pedal pumps just to have them come out enough to firmly contact the disc. Finally, make sure that the bleed nipple on the caliper is at the highest point. On my bike, it's at the lowest point, so I have to take it off the bike, and lay it on the ground with an old disc in plae to bleed it.

  • Ryan Blevins
    Ryan Blevins May 17, 2014

    Do you mean take the caliper off, and old disc in place of what?

  • Strech
    Strech May 17, 2014

    What I do is I have the old disc I changed out a coupe of years ago that I use between the brake pads so the pistons won't come out too far, and dislodge, as I have to remove my rear caliper to bleed it. I have to remove the rear caliper on my bike, because the way it's mounted, the bleeder nipple is not at the high point, and I can't get the air out of the caliper that is above the bleeder. You need to look at your setup, and see if the bleeder valve is at the high point of the caliper, in which case removing it to bleed won't help any.

  • Ryan Blevins
    Ryan Blevins May 17, 2014

    I gravity drained the caliper down to the master cylinder. I pushed the piston all the way in, then bled it and filled it up. When pushing the brake pedal down it takes a good amount of pumping but the piston is receiving some pressure. I pumped it a lot and then pressed the piston back in, I could hear some air and fluid around the banjo bolt on the master cylinder. Wiped everything up and can't see any new fluid or bubble anywhere, it might be the line itself or the banjo bolt or washers. Any thoughts?

  • Ryan Blevins
    Ryan Blevins May 18, 2014

    Would a mityvac or some type of brake bleeder prevent me from having to take it all apart again. I mean as far as getting enough pressure into the system.

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 1,554 Answers

Beings the master cylinder was used, it might need to be rebuilt.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2005-yamaha-yz250f-yz250ft-rear-master-cylinder/o/m145329sch523035

Item #2

Posted on May 15, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 04 Yamaha Yz 125- Rear brake Master cylinder

Are you bleeding it by gravity (flowing down from resevior thru caliper) or forcing the fluid up thru the caliper to the resevior. The latter will get more air out in less time. Simple cheap pump kits are available at you auto dealer and u can use it on your other vehicles.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: I was losing my pedal pressure do to low fluid, I

I don' t think by saying "cracking the lines open to get all the fluid out" he meant he literally broke the line. You probably have a bad cup in the master cylinder and it needs a piston rebuild kit. This is most likely the case if there has been no external leakage at all. Old gelled up fluid can cause this so flushing and bleeding could possibly help. Dot 3 and 4 are interchangeable they just have different test standards for temperature, etc. You definitely got a load of air in the system and it can be very difficult to get out. Forget the rear bleed nipple on the caliper for now. It is useless and only for final bleeding after you have pressure built up. Press the caliper piston all the way in while watching the reservoir on the master cylinder(don't let it overflow). Then do normal bleeding, pump and hold, starting at the brake line banjo bolt. Break it loose and re-tighten it just like it was a bleed nipple. Make sure to never let the reservoir level get to the bottom. Work your way to the brakeline banjo bolt on the caliper, pump and bleed. Final bleed at the nipple. If bleeding doesn't last - rebuild the master.

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My front Master Cylinder doesn't work. I've already tried bleeding the brakes and there's no pressure even drawing the fluid through the line. Any ideas on how to fix this?

I'm going thru the same thing...I blew air in the line with pressure and the caliper worked...open heart surgery master cylinder and caliper and no signs of wear and tear...to me its like if the master cylinder doesn't have enough pressure to push the brake fluid......my conclusion ..faulty master cylinder...

Posted on Apr 18, 2012

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I have an 01 GMC Jimmy 4.3L 4WD & we are trying to bleed the brakes but the scanner says my vehicle is going 3MPH so we manually bleed the brakes but the pedals still easily is pushed to the floor.


Bad master cylinder . What are you using a scan tool for ? No need Unless your Installing a new Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit (EHCU) or new Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).
Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding (Manual)
Caution: Refer to Brake Fluid Irritant Caution in the Preface section.
Notice: Refer to Brake Fluid Effects on Paint and Electrical Components Notice in the Preface section.
Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.
If you have performed a brake master cylinder bench bleeding on this vehicle, or if you disconnected the brake pipes from the master cylinder, you must perform the following steps:
3.1. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir is full to the maximum-fill level. If necessary add GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Refer to Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations.
If removal of the reservoir cap and diaphragm is necessary, clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the cap prior to removal.
3.2. With the rear brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, loosen and separate the front brake pipe from the front port of the brake master cylinder.
3.3. Allow a small amount of brake fluid to gravity bleed from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.4. Reconnect the brake pipe to the master cylinder port and tighten securely.
3.5. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
3.6. Loosen the same brake pipe to purge air from the open port of the master cylinder.
3.7. Tighten the brake pipe, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
3.8. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 3.3-3.7 until all air is purged from the same port of the master cylinder.
3.9. With the front brake pipe installed securely to the master cylinder, after all air has been purged from the front port of the master cylinder, loosen and separate the rear brake pipe from the master cylinder, then repeat steps 3.3-3.8.
3.10. After completing the final master cylinder port bleeding procedure, ensure that both of the brake pipe-to-master cylinder fittings are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level.
Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 8-10 until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
With the right rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right rear hydraulic circuit install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the left rear wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air purged from the left rear hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
With the right front wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve tightened securely, after all air has been purged from the right front hydraulic circuit, install a proper box-end wrench onto the LEFT FRONT wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve, then repeat steps 7-11.
After completing the final wheel hydraulic circuit bleeding procedure, ensure that each of the 4 wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valves are properly tightened.
Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with GM approved brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the bleeding procedure again. If the brake pedal still feels spongy after repeating the bleeding procedure, perform the following steps:
21.1. Inspect the brake system for external leaks. Refer to Brake System External Leak Inspection.
21.2. Pressure bleed the hydraulic brake system in order to purge any air that may still be trapped in the system.
Turn the ignition key ON, with the engine OFF. Check to see if the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated.
Important: If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, DO NOT allow the vehicle to be driven until it is diagnosed and repaired.
If the brake system warning lamp remains illuminated, refer to Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes

Feb 26, 2017 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    How do you bleed the brake system on 2003 suzki grand yitara 4x4 with abs brakes


    The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
    PRESSURE BLEEDING
    1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
    2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
    3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
    4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
    5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
    6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.


    MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.
    1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
    2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
    3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
    4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
    5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
    6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
    7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
    8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

    Hope helps.

    Sep 29, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

    1 Answer

    Cant get any damm presure back in the rear brake even after bleeding sposter


    If you can't get any pressure on the rear brake, you have one of several possible problems. Either you have a brake fluid leak somewhere, your rear brake master cylinder is bad, or your bleeding procedure is not correct. Let's take the simple one first, your bleeding procedure. This is easy to get confused on but it must be done in an exact sequence. To bleed the brakes, first depress the brake lever and hold it down. Then, open the brake bleeder valve and allow the air and fluid to bleed out. Then, close the bleeder valve. Release the brake pedal and give the master cylinder time to refill though the small hole in the master cylinder reservoir. Repeat the procedure until you get a good firm pedal Do not allow the reservoir to run dry during this process. If you have a fluid leak, you should be able to see that. If the master cylinder is bad, it could be allowing the fluid to bypass the pressure cup inside of it. If this is the case, the master cylinder should be rebuilt. If this was done and it is not building pressure, the rubber pressure cup could have been installed backwards. It goes in with the cupped side facing the back of the master cylinder or the end where the brake line connects to the master cylinder.

    Good Luck
    Steve

    Jun 21, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

    1 Answer

    I hit something in the road last night that tore the brake fluid reservoir off of the rear master cylinder. I have ordered a new master cylinder; I've never changed one out before.


    No problem, just change the old one out with the new one, fill the master cylinder reservior and bleed the brakes. To bleed the brakes, do this in EXACTLY this order. Fill the master cylinder. Press the rear brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve on the rear caliper and allow brake fluid and air to bleed out. Close the bleeder valve. Let off on rear brake pedal. Repeat process until you have a full firm pedal. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry during the bleeding process.

    Good Luck
    Steve

    Apr 19, 2011 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXSTS Springer...

    1 Answer

    Is there a special way to bleed the brake system on a 2001 catera


    1. Place a clean shop cloth beneath the brake master cylinder to prevent brake fluid spills.
    2. With the ignition OFF and the brakes cool, apply the brakes 3-5 times, or until the brake pedal effort increases significantly, in order to deplete the brake booster power reserve.

    Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container. Ensure that the brake master cylinder reservoir remains at least half-full during this bleeding procedure. Add fluid as needed to maintain the proper level. Clean the outside of the reservoir on and around the reservoir cap prior to removing the cap and diaphragm.
    1. Install a proper box-end wrench onto the RIGHT REAR wheel hydraulic circuit bleeder valve.
    2. Install a transparent hose over the end of the bleeder valve.
    3. Submerge the open end of the transparent hose into a transparent container partially filled DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
    4. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal fully and maintain steady pressure on the pedal.
    5. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge air from the wheel hydraulic circuit.
    6. Tighten the bleeder valve, then have the assistant slowly release the brake pedal.
    7. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat these steps until all air is purged from the same wheel hydraulic circuit.
    8. Repeat this procedure with the LEFT FRONT, then LEFT REAR and finally the RIGHT FRONT.
    9. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the maximum-fill level with DOT-3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed brake fluid container.
    10. Slowly depress and release the brake pedal. Observe the feel of the brake pedal.

    Feb 27, 2010 | 2001 Cadillac Catera

    1 Answer

    Rear brake cylinder and bleeding


    Relax....KTM's are delicate in this procedure.
    First of all make sure that you are using DOT 5.1 brake fluid and not 4 as we use in the Japan models.
    Then take the rear caliper in your hands and push the piston all the way in.Then bolt it on its position.
    Bolt on the brake hose to the rear caliper tight and leave it loose on the rear master cylinder side (loose but ready to tight it on like half circle loose) and clean up the reservoir completely.
    Take a syringe from a pharmacy and a piece of 3mm clear tube.
    Start pushing brake fluid in the caliper's loose bleeder until you see fluid coming out fron the hose's loose end on the master cylinder.
    The tight the cylinder's bolt and keep pushing fluid until you see it filling up the reservoir.
    When you see the reservoir fully filled up, tight the bleeder, take out the syringe and start pressing the brake pedal 15-20 times and the last one keep it down and loose the bleeder (with a tube attached to it and to a bottle) for a sec to relieve the pressure along with any air bubbles.DON'T LIFT THE PEDAL UNTIL YOU HAVE TIGHT BACK THE BLEEDER or the system will **** air in.FIRST tight the bleeder and THEN loose the pedal.
    Keep doing that until NO air comes out of the system.
    While you are doing this second stage keep filling up the reservoir and do not let the master cylinder **** air in.

    Jun 15, 2009 | 2002 KTM LC8 950 Rally

    2 Answers

    I need to know how to bleed the brakes on a 1999 chevy blazer


    Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

    Mar 27, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

    2 Answers

    1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake


    The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
    Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

    Mar 15, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

    2 Answers

    Bleeding abs brakes


    Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

    Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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