Question about 2004 Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra Glide Standard

1 Answer

Clutch won't disengage on my 1990 HD when the clutch lever is pulled in.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 3,506 Answers

It is possibly quite out of adjustment or the release system is defective or broken somewhere from the clutch perch and lever to the clutch itself.

Posted on Nov 26, 2014

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: clutch not disengaging completely when handle

either your clutch needs to be adjusted or your clutch has something in it preventing it from fully releasing. either way its best to take it to the shop or someone who knows how to properly inspect the primary case. in my case, a plate fell apart and the rivets were in between the clutches.

Posted on May 04, 2009

OneRide
  • 379 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch not fully disengaged, hard shifting - 96 FLHTCU

If the previous solution doesn't fix it, beg, borrow or steal (maybe even BUY) a service manual and run thru the clutch adjustment BY THE BOOK.. I also would suggest removing the clutch cable and checking for binding, fraying, kinks, etc. If the problems still persist, total disassembly and inspection of the clutch will have to be done.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: how do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't

You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: clutch cable broke at handle lever on 1979 harley davidson sporst

To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.

If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net

Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.

The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.

Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.

Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.

As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.

On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: HAVE A 1999 SPORTSTER 1200C PULL MY CLUTCH LEVER

Well, the answer is yes and no. If you hear a clunk noise when shifting to first gear when the engine and transmission is cold, this is normal. Once the engine reaches normal operating temp, the answer is "NO", not normal.

In a cold engine, the oil is thick and even with the clutch pulled in, enough oil is between the plates to drive the mainshaft and cause the noise. Now. once the oil gets hot, it shouldn't do this. If it does, you need to adjust the clutch.

To adjust the clutch, find the cable adjuster in the middle of the clutch cable. Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster inwards to get as much slack in the cable as possible.

Now, remove the derby cover, spring, and locknut at the clutch release mechanism on the outer primary cover. Inside the mechanism is a screw. Turn this screw as far as it will go clockwise but don't try to force it. Once it stops, turn the screw back clockwise 1/4 turn. Replace the "locknut", spring, and the derby cover over the release mechanism.

Now, go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it back outwards until you get about an 1/8" of freeplay. Squeeze the clutch a few times and check the freeplay again. Lock the lock nut and replace the rubber boot over the adjuster.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jan 14, 2011

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I just replaced my clutch cable, but now that I've put everything back together I have a problem. The bike will from neutral to first and back without the clutch lever pulled in. However it also...


Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
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