Question about Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
My expertise does not go that far back and as you have not had an answer fro many months you may need to buy a service manual. Sorry and good luck
Posted on Oct 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1993 FXR Rear Brakes
If the Master Cylinder BORE size is the same as the bore size required for the caliper you want to replace it with, then YES, you can use your existing Master Cylinder.
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
You can find the drain plug , under the crank case, at the bottom, underneath the frame.
If you have a oil filter, you should change it as well as pumping all the old oil out of the cooler, if you have one.
Have fun, hope this helped you out.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
The starter on a late model Harley is a typical Nippondenso gear reduction type starter. They are all basically the same except for size.
To replace the starter clutch inside the starter assembly requires disassembly of the starter assembly.
I you will contact me directly, I will scan the procedure and drawings out of a service manual for you.
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
First off, you have to find the Front Cylinder Advanced timing mark on the flywheels. Lift the rear wheel of the bike off the ground and support it in a safe manner. Remove the spark plugs from the engine and put the transmission in fifth gear.
Now, using a common everyday plastic drinking straw (Note: don't use anything else or you may damage a piston or it may break off leaving part of whatever you used in the cylinder requiring the removal of the head) , bump the rear wheel in the direction of rotation until the front piston it at Top Dead Center. Remove the timing plug from the crankcase on the left side of the engine. You should see the TDC timing mark in the hole. If not, bump the engine slightly forward or backwards until you do. It should be a straight up and down line on the crank.
Now, slowly start bumping the rear wheel in the backwards direction. You may see a mark come into view that looks kinda like this "oo", this is a factory timing mark,not the front cylinder advanced mark. Continue bumping the rear wheel wheel in the backwards direction until you see the Front Cylinder Advanced mark. It will look like "dot" on the crankshaft "o". The piston should be approximately 7/16" down from TDC, If you go further, you will not see anymore marks until you come back around to the TDC mark.
NOTE, you may or may not have the front cylinder on the compression stroke. It doesn't matter, all you're doing right now is finding the correct timing mark. "
This is the mark you want to time the engine to. Put the transmission back in neutral. Reinstall the spark plugs and connect a timing light to the front cylinder spark plug. Start the engine and set the engine speed at 1300 -1500 RPM. Shine the light into the timing hole. You should see the Front Cylinder Advanced timing mark in the center of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the timing plate on the right side of the engine to get the timing mark in the center of the hole. Moving the plate clockwise advances the timing and moves the timing mark towards the rear of the timing hole. Moving the plate counterclocwise retards the timing and moves the timing mark towards the front of the timing hole.
Harley makes a clear plug to go into the timing hole that is supposed to prevent the oil spray from the oil when the engine is running. I've tried to use them but it is very difficult to see the timing mark when using one. There are other tools available, CleanTime or something like that, but I've never used them. I usually start the engine with the plug loosely screwed into the timing hole. Once I get the engine started and up to speed, I take the plug out. DO NOT GET YOUR FACE NEAR THE HOLE. The crankcase pressure will blow oil in your eye and it hurts. Stand back and a bit off to the side to view into the hole.
If you will contact me directly, I'll scan and send you a picture of what the timing marks look like. A picture is worth a thousand words. Contact me directly at wd4ity @ bellsouth.net
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Thirty over is nothing. I just finished a rebuilt on a 1970 model and we went 0.050" over on it. It was already at 30 over and the pistons scored.
Anyway, don't use one of these cheap Chinese made bendix's. Get an ACCEL. They may be made in China but they're better. You can't get good Shovelhead parts anymore.
Now, before you put the outer primary back on, use your hand and operate the fork that shifts the bendix into engagement with the ring gear. Does it engage like it's supposed to. You'll probably have to turn it just a bit. Now, do it again with the outer primary on. Does it still engage smoothly?
Now, here's the cause of most starter grinding problems on a shovel. The starter, ring gear, and outer primary are all out of alignment. The starter housing, the one with the big gear in it is supposed to have alignment pins in it as well as the outer primary. These pins are to ensure that the starter drive and the ring gear are properly aligned with each other. With the starter and outer primary on, you should be able to pull on the plunger of the solenoid and the starter drive engage fully and smoothly. Also don't forget the large brass washer. This keeps the drive from going too far.
If you're worried about low voltage, take the battery to an automotive parts store and ask them to load test the battery. If it drops below 10 volts, buy a new battery.
Posted on Aug 18, 2010
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