Question about 2001 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster Sport
Posted by Anonymous on
Could be an ignition module. Check the coil first.
Check your pick-up sensor located inside the timing cover, behind the adjustor plate. If the filament is not intact you will have no spark.
A defective coil, cam position sensor, or stator will also cause a no spark condition.
First check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). THEN check the condition of the battery and do a voltage test
and recharge the battery if it is below 12.60V. THEN check the condition and tightness of the battery connections
and perform either a conductance test or a load test and replace the battery if and as necessary. THEN remove the spark plug cable from one of the spark plugs and remove the plug and visually check the condition of the plug. THEN attach the HT cable to a SPARK TESTER and clip the tester to the cylinder head bolt and crank the engine over looking for spark and repeat the procedure on the other cylinder also. Be aware that the Engine will not spark with both spark plugs removed, so when checking for spark, use a SPARK TESTER with both plugs installed.
Ignition Coil Primary Circuit Test
Remove the coil. THEN set your ohmmeter scale to RX1 and place ohmmeter leads on the primary coil windings A (front of coil) to B (middle of coil), B to C (front of coil) and check for primary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range is 0.5-0.7 ohms. If primary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
Ignition Coil Secondary Circuit Test
With the ignition coil removed from the motorcycle and the ohmmeter set to the RX1K scale place the ohmmeter leads on the secondary coil windings B (middle terminal) to
R (rear secondary terminal/socket), B to F (front secondary terminal/socket) and check for secondary coil winding resistance which normal resistance range will be 5.5-7.5K ohms. If secondary resistance is not within this range check out test results below.
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding which requires coil replacement.
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals requiring the coil terminals to be cleaned and the resistance test then repeated and if after the test is repeated the resistance is still high after the terminals were cleaned the coil must be replaced.
If there is an infinite ohms or no continuity) resistance value the coil is open and must be replaced.
Posted on Oct 14, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Rear cylinder not firing
The first thing I would do is replace the spark plugs again. You can foul a plug and it will cause you more problems than you can ever imagine. I see you have done all the logical things that I would recommend but I did not see you have replaced the plugs after the 200 miles. You would be surprised at how many times a $2.00 part can cause fits beyond belief.
Posted on Dec 08, 2008
SOURCE: bike cranks and wont start
Hi .... Sounds like regulator/rectifier is defective. Fully charge battery and try starting again, place multi-meter across battery and it should show 12.8-14 volts. If it doesn't replace reg/rec unit.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
Since you have thrown the entire ignition system at it, let's think about fuel. If you were running out of gas it would act as you described. I would start by removing the float bowl. Be careful not to spill any gas because we want to look at the level. It should be over half full. Check the float movement. You should be able to push it up without resistance. Looking from the bottom remove the phillips screw that retains the float axle and the float and needle valve should fall out. If the needle valve has three sides or if the rubber tip is worn, replace it. The 3 sided valves have a tendancy to stick closed and all dealer stock should be the 4 sided version by now. After you re-install the float, leave the bowl off and follow the small vacuum hose from the petcock to the carb. Pull it off at the carb end. Look to make sure it isn't damaged. **** lightly (sorry) or use a vacuum pump on the hose. With the petcock on and gas in the tank, a healthy stream of fuel should pour from the needle valve. If not, the petcock diapragm is shot. If none of this helps, take it for a ride and when it acts up, crack the fuel cap loose and if it takes off the vent in the cap is malfunctioning.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
Sounds like a fuel or intake problem to me, start the bike and spray brake cleaner onto the intake where it goes into the head, if the bike stumbles then you have an intake leak and have to change the seals or just tighten up the intake manifold. Another thing you could do is remove the carb (if it is carburated) remove the float bowl and clean everything including the jets, you could have some **** in there that is plugging things up. Also try removing the air cleaner and spraying a can of carb cleaner into and around the carb. Also try removing the gas tank and completely cleaning it and the petcock screen out, you could have something in the gas tank that is migrating to the petcock and causing a blockage.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
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