Question about 2005 Yamaha TTR 90 E

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How to replace throttle valve on ttr 90 - 2005 Yamaha TTR 90 E

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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Posted on Nov 07, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ttr 90 after 1/4 throttle just dies out

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

If the above does not solve the problem then pull the slide out of the throat of the carb and move the clip on the jet needle one notch lower.

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Posted on May 03, 2009

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Hi, Austin and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
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6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
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13. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
14. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
15. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
16. Damaged carburetor.
17. Incorrect valve timing.
18. Weak or broken valve springs.
19. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
20. Check for engine trouble codes
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor damaged, contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
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14. Old or contaminated fuel.
15. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
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17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
18. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
19. Incorrect valve timing.
20. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
21. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
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