Question about Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide Motorcycles

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Change front brake pads, 2002 FXD

How to change front brake pads on a 2002 FXD

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brakepads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s).

Posted on Oct 14, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 FXD HD speed-o quit and is stuck at 37 MPH

Your turn signal security module, or TSSM is the most likely bad part. Under seat at rear fender

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

v2iper
  • 150 Answers

SOURCE: too much play on front brake, 2002 road king

Its not your pads min thickness is 0.04..you have air in the lines or a loose fitting. You really need a vacmum suction device to bleed harley brakes not the old auto turn the nut pump the valve routine. Take it to a shop and have it done will only take about 15 min. Maybe someone prior to you mixed dot 4 and dot 5 maybe it fluid just needs to be replaced. but its not your pads the brake fluid makes up for the pad thickness.

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Brake pads

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Posted on Jul 18, 2009

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SOURCE: changing rear pads 2002 herridge softtail

Generally if you know how to use and what size tools to use, you can change the pads. Most time it is easier to do the fron than the back but then again on overall actually the back side is easier. Get a friend to help you when you dismantle the brake calipers, you need to press the brake pistons in using a C-clamp and once that is done need to bleed the brake line to bleed brake line just in case there is air bubble in the line.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: my 2002 fxd front forks

Yes your fluid may need to be changed if you want a more firm front end. I don't know what type of fluid you have in the forks now but what you need to do is to go with a thicker oil. In my '94 FXDWG, I went to PJ1 30 weight oil. Since I don't have a book on your late model bike, I can't tell you how much oil to put into each tube. There is a "wet" and a "dry" quantity to add when you've drained them. If you simply drain the oil and refill the fork tubes, use the "wet" quantity of oil. If you disassemble and clean the tubes out, use the "dry" quantity when you refill.

To drain the oil, look on the trailing side of the fork sliders. You'll see a screw or a set screw in the slider. Take this plug out and some of the oil will simply flow out. To get all of it out, hold the front brake and push down on the handlebars. Now, oil will spray everywhere so don't do this job in your living room. Once you get the oil out of both tubes, reinstall the plugs and refill the tubes one at the time by removing the top cap out of the tube and pouring the prescribed amount of oil into each fork tube. Ride the bike and see if the front suspension is too soft, too firm, or just right. Remember, the heavier the viscosity of the oil, the more firm the front suspension is. If you can't get it right, you might want to consider changing the springs in the fork tubes.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on May 04, 2011

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How do i change front brake pads on my 2002 fxd super glide



For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST r
emove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brake pads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s

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1 Answer

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Usually when a brake squeals it's because someone has gotten wax or something on the rotor. The only way to stop the squeal is to install new pads and clean the rotor with brake cleaner prior to installing the new pads. Sometimes you even have to "break the glaze" on the rotor.

You can try taking the pads out and sanding them real good. Then do the stuff I said to do above. Might work.

Good Luck
Steve

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Now, if you start to hear squealing when you pull the lever, take the bike to a shop to have the brakes pads replaced. If you feel vibration when you apply the brakes, take it to a shop immediately and have them check the wheel spokes for tightness.

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