Question about Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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While riding my 2008 fatboy in 6th gear it revs up in clutch slipage..i have to down shift to engage again... this has happened at 65-75 mph..cable is properly adjusted..oils are topped...the actual clutches are like new..it only has 5000 miles...

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 1,554 Answers

You state the cable is properly adjusted.

What about the clutch push rod adjustment, in the center of the pressure plate?

http://www.aim-tamachi.com/instructions/VP-IP-04-L.JPG

Posted on May 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 104 Answers

SOURCE: clutch snatching Madass 125cc

Could be burnt, or scorched clutch discs. DId you check the oil lately? I believe the Madasses have a wet clutch, right? Hope you didn't burn up the whole clutch basket. But you may have. Check the oil now!!!

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: clutch not engaging properly

The clutch is not dis-engaging properly. Cables can stretch a bit. There shou;ld be an adjuster either at the clutch handle or at the transmission. Just take most, not all, of the slack out of the cable.
You should be back to normal now.

Please rate this solution as "FixYa" or post a comment if the problem is still present. Thanks!

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: 1997 Honda Magna VF45c 750 clutch adjustment

Did you do an oil change recently? Sometimes a motor cycles clutch shares the oil with the engine and a different kind of oil then the bike requires will cause the clutch to slip. This happens alot especially if someone switches to some types of synthetic oil when the bike had regular oil before the oil change.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

mxtras
  • 194 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 TTR 125 will not shift into first gear

This is one of those issues that is really tricky to diagnose over the net but would likely take a few minutes to diagnose in person.

When it does drop into gear, does it jump or stall? Will it idle in gear, stopped with the clutch pulled in?

My initial thought is that the clutch is not being fully released (the plates are still in firm contact with eachother).

More than likely, the resolution is a fairly simple adjustment.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

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Adrian762
  • 425 Answers

SOURCE: I put some new 10 40w oil in the case and took

Not being able to see the bike makes it hard to assess. Get your self a manual, if you haven't got one, go to http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp , and download one. Once you have it apart you will be able to see the damage, and rectify it, and you may even work out what caused it. Sounds to me as if you blew a seal, whether from to much oil or not is very hard to say.

Posted on Jan 02, 2010

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1 Answer

6th gear winding noise upon excelleration,engine stall while slipping into gear


It's difficult to discern if these two things are related. To my knowledge I don't believe they are. Providing all the basics are covered, oil good and up to proper levels, clutch cable properly adjusted, did the bike suffer any "trauma" while in 6th gear? (dumped, shut down hard, popped the clutch going in or out of gear?) If the engine is shutting down ONLY when going into 6th I'd say it's binding, a bent shift fork or gears.

Oct 11, 2014 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Clutch problem??


Sounds like the clutch release is not seating smoothly and fully. Operate the release very slowly (preferably out of gear while static or can you put it in 6th while its off? and see if there's any stiction in the clutch release mechanism.Maybe the clearance changes in 6th gear but i cant see why it should.

May 13, 2014 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

1 Answer

Vehicle dies when downshifting to first gear and also makes a squeling noise


Manual Transmission

  1. 1
    Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-1.jpg


  2. 2
    Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-2.jpg
  3. 3
    Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-3.jpg
550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-4.jpg
  • 2
    Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-5.jpg
  • 3
    Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-6.jpg
  • 4
    Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-7.jpg
  • 5
    Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!
    550px-find-out-if-a-transmission-has-gone-out-step-8.jpg
  • EditTips for preventing transmission damages

    • Avoid prolonged driving by slipping the clutch.
    • Avoid jerks and jolts while driving.
    • Avoid "riding the clutch", i.e. needlessly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
    • Never use clutch slipping for regulating the speed of a heavy truck!
    • Make sure the clutch of a manual transmission is fully pressed when shifting
    • Do not use excessive force when shifting a manual.
    • For rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles, avoid driving through places at the minimum of the vehicle's clearance.
    EditTips

    • Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
    • Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
    • Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
    • Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
    • Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
    • The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
    • The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
    • The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
    • There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
    • Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.

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    My 2001 KLR 650 surges in all gears at all speeds. This happened before and the shop I brought it too adjusted the clutch and it went away. I want to adjust this myself but do not know how. Is the clutch...


    If the problem happens while cruising at a steady speed while driving down the road you are having an issue with an intake manifold air leak or an issue with the vacuum diaphragm in the carburetor top (stretched, cracked, pin hole, etc). From the brief description you give (and the fact that the dealer adjusted the clutch cable), I assume you are dealing with an clutch that is not fully engaging when you shift gears. If what you are experiencing is the engine revving/slipping for an instant when you shift the problem is a bad clutch cable. The cable is binding for an instant allowing the motor to slip/rev for a moment before fully engaging. To check this unhook both ends of the cable, grab the end of the cable with your fingers, and slide the cable back and forth. If it binds the tiniest bit , replace the cable . Replacing the cable should fix the slip/ rev you experience when you shift. To unhook the cable from the bars turn the adjuster nut all the way loose, turn the slotted adjustment screw all the way into the perch, line up the slots on the screw and the nut, use the cable slack to pull the cable out of the perch and unhook it from the lever slot. On the engine simply slide the end out of the slot on the lever holder.

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    Take out your middle console and watch your shift cables as your shifting, you may have something stuck or maybe your shift cable bushing has broken. So i would just take the console out, and try shifting in all your gears. And then you will most likely find out what your problem is. :)) Good luck. Hope this helps. I have a saturn too and I LOVE IT!!! Good choice of a car!!! James Booth

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    1997 Yamaha YZF 1000 clutch and/or transmission problem?


    well this is something that is as you said " not normal" i would guess that clutch is smoked. after it warms up do a 3rd gear roll on at about 45 mph. if you drop the hammer and the motor revs and you don't go anywhere stop the ride and R&R your clutch
    something else to make sure of is that you clutch fuild is good and has no air in the line
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    Mark
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