Question about 1999 BMW K 1200 LT

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I HAVE A 1999 K 1200 LT and just had the starter relay replaced due to a low battery (welded relay) . It only clicks and will not turn over and the battery is new. Could it be the starter that is bad? The bike only has 12000 on it.

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  • Eric Common
    Eric Common May 13, 2014

    Looking back to when my bike motor shut down when I was riding it, prior to that I had to jump start it. The bike seemed to start on its own. I have been told that the starter could have been stuck engaged the entire time I was riding it for approximately 6 miles. The battery was extremely hot and swelled. I quickly pulled out the battery worrying it would explode or catch fire. After reading what could the help postings pointed at the relay welding. So now I am thinking the starter could have been damaged during my short attempt to ride home. I also had the new battery tested and it was at 13. I put in on a 2 amp charger and will try again in the morning. I also saw a fix it tip on the starter, advising to shift the bike in high gear and moved the bike forward which sometimes will disengage the starter. The bike is currently at a none BMW dealer which only charged me 150 to install the relay with no fix. The BMW dealer about 2.5 hours away told me it would cost 600 labor and 400 for a new starter if this is the problem. Unfortunately I have only been able to ride this bike 300 miles after buying it new. The original owner told me the battery may need to be replaced and as I have read, most people are not aware of the common problem that the 1999's and 2000 are prone to have. ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREAT. Thanks

  • Chris Southgate May 15, 2014

    Ok if your starter is stuck on shifting the bike to a high gear and rocking the bike should disengage the starter, and to find out if your starter is stuck on shift the bike into neutral and try to move your bike you should fell no resistance if the starter is NOT ingauged if the starter is stuck on you will know when you try to move the bike

  • Chris Southgate May 15, 2014

    Another test you can try is to test to see if power is getting to your starter solenoid

  • Chris Southgate May 15, 2014

    One other thing I can think of is to check your main power and earth lead for damage that may of been caused by a swelling batterie

  • Chris Southgate May 15, 2014

    I have added a break down image of your starter for you

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  • 38 Answers

Have you checked the volts on your new battery as it may not be producing 12.5 volts when you try to start load test the battery with any alt meter when you try to start the bike if not this the rely you have replaced May be faulty hope this helps

Posted on May 13, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: BMW R 1200 C - 1998 - battery good - only clicks when starter but

check the starter it self maybe jammed

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

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1 Answer

BMW K 100 LT won't start


is starter relay...under tank there is an electrical box with relays there...look for the relay( I think it is green) that has the wires from the battery to starter motor and bridge these wires at terminals...this will tell you is the relay is working ...if it just goes click click click then battery is RS
the buzz you hear from fuel tank when u press start button is fuel pump

Jul 04, 2012 | 1987 BMW K 100 LT

1 Answer

This is gwen again no the car dont turn over but i hear a clicking on the right side at a fuse box all the lights come on the dash but does nothing


This clicking is due to one of several possible parts. The Starter relay will click if the Battery is low or has a dirty connection. The Starter relay will click if the relay has burned components inside and is the weak link between the Battery and the Starter.

A bad or Grounded-out Starter will ruin a Starter relay by melting its' contact points and then the Starter relay will make the noise you describe.

A smaller Relay in the fuse panel (Ignition Relay) may be keeping the small wires to your Starter Relay from working.

Start out by cleaning the Battery cables for the battery. If not fixed, have someone bypass the Starter Relay after you disconnect the small wires going to that Relay. When bypassed the Starter should turn and if the Key is turned on the RUN position, the engine should start. Be careful to have a stick-shift in Neutral or an Automatic in Park.

If the Starter does not turn when the Starter relay is bypassed, then the starter is bad. If the Battery is bad, then the Starter will not turn either. Check the Battery before condemning the Starter.

Oct 31, 2011 | 1995 Nissan 200SX

1 Answer

Switch is on, turn key, no signal to starter, no click no contack


COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jun 15, 2011 | Ford Windstar Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Won;t crank


Hi, if the car engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger). Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay). Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).

May 26, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Stealth

1 Answer

I have a 2003 Saturan Ion that won't start


Hi, this is what you should do when your car won't start. Diagnosing a no-start condition requires a logical approach to figuring out what might be preventing your car from starting. First, if the engine won't even crank over when you turn the ignition to START, your car obviously won't start.
When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

If the engine fails to crank, there is a fault in one of the components in the battery/ignition/starter circuit. Check it out.....
  • Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
  • Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
  • Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
  • Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
  • Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
  • Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
  • Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
  • Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
  • Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
  • Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Dec 02, 2010 | 2003 Saturn ION

2 Answers

My 1996 Dodge caravan won't start. There's a clicking sound near the fuse box under the hood when i turn the key. i have checked the starter/solenoid. Any suggestions?


OK...this definetly sounds like the starter/solenoid, but not because it is faulty, but possibly due to low battery power......this clicking you are hearing might be the starter relay........what checks have you done already

Oct 06, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I have a 1997 grand prix. Most days it starts. once in a while it will not start. You can sometimes rock key back and forth quickly and it will catch. But most of the time odly enough wait over night and...


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My car does not start or turn over. The radio works and so does the fan.


When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Jul 14, 2010 | 1995 Suzuki Sidekick

2 Answers

Engine will not turn over. lights, horn, everything else works, no clicks, no nothing, but it will not turn over.


You're describing a no rotation issue and not a no start issue correct? If you dont hear/feel the starter relay clicking, it eliminates everything in the circuit to that point meaning the ignition switch, Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) (you don't have a neutral start switch unless you have a rare manual transmission), ground input from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to the starter relay coil, and starter relay are good. Based on what you've said that leaves the primary battery cable from the battery to the starter, and the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid contact on the starter. Have you checked their continuity? One more voltage to check at contact 30 (input volts from battery to starter relay contacts) on the starter relay socket. Should see 12vdc all the time.

You should check the battery. The true test is a load test. Does jumping the battery using jumper cables make any difference? If it starts, change the battery. I take it to check the starter you jumpered the solenoid contact on the starter to the battery correct? Have you tried wiggling the battery cables as you turn the key? They can corrode and fail internally. Are the engine and chassy ground connections clean and tight?

Jul 14, 2010 | 2004 Dodge Caravan

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