Question about 2009 Suzuki GSX650F
Recently had a death in family and I've ridden it way too fast, a lot ! Now as I'd said it doesn't idle as it once did, and downshifting it doesn't act right. Had to have an oil change after 1400 miles in 2 weeks, the tech suggested Red Line additive to help resolve, but so far it runs fast just has changed on the idle sound and of course when downshifting, it seems I have to keep a little higher RPM rev than I used to. Please let me know of anything that might adjust this issue...I'm about to change out the plugs but it still starts way to easily and runs pretty fast on top end, maybe 10-20 mph difference than what it did before adding the fuel injector cleaner for the cars.
Posted by Anonymous on
Not a good idea to use car injector cleaners for bikes. especially type designed for Ford. They need to be sprayed in in take and left for period of time. They can eat away "o" rings and seals.check for vacuum leaks by spraying around intake with 2+2 carb cleaner. if begins to run normally find the leak,
Posted on May 03, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The carbs should be synchronized every 20k miles. If you are having a roughness in idle then I would recommend the carbs being synched. If the problem is at higher RPM's I'd check to see if the motor has a harmonic dampener that can be adjusted. This often resolves vibration issues. I'm just not sure if this bike has one. These big bikes usually have some sort of adjustable dampening device internally.
I'd also like to have you check the motor mounts. This is a common problem if your bike has any rubber in the motor mounts. The rubber wears or even breaks and you often cannot see it until you actually try to remove the mount. Often they will fall apart in your hands.
These big motors all vibrate a bit so many of the manufacturers have realized that adding modified motor mounts is helpful.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
SOURCE: 04-5 gsxr 1000
My 04 gsxr 1000 was parked for a year and a half when i bought it. I had a ton of rust in the fuel tank. The engine is fuel injected so it needs a free flowing fuel pump to keep a constant pressure. more than likely the strainer at the bottom of the pump housing is plugged up full of rust. You will need to remove the tank from the bike and drain all the bad fuel. Unbolt the pump housing from under the tank take care not to damage the o ring. Separate the pump from the housing by pulling apart. This may take some brute force because the rust tends to stick the pump to the housing. Once separated you will see the plastic micro strainer it will be solid brown impregnated by rust. Carefuly remove it and soak it in some fresh clean gosoline. Swish it around in a glass jar with a lid on it if possible. This worked for me. The alternative is a new strainer for about 100.00 USD. Clean the rest of the pump externally with a soft bristle brush. Drain the pump as best you can. Do not attempt to disassemble the pump as it is sealed and considered maintenance free. Ventalate the tank untill completely dry and blow it out with compressed air untill no more rust dust comes out of it. At this point you can recoat the inside of the tank if you wish, there is a product called kreme for that. Im cheap so i didn't recoat mine. Reassemble, refill with high octane fuel and dont store long term without draining the fuel tank completely and run the engine til it starves itself of fuel. With all this said YOU ARE DEALING WITH FUEL BE CAREFUL, DONT BLOW YOURSELF UP!!!
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Remove the carb , dissemble it and clean the varnish out. After so long in storage I am surprised it runs at all. Remove the petcock, ( gas valve ),water trap and clean it out. Next let one cup of gas flow into a container. Any water or rust in the bottom of the container? If any rust was in the water trap or the container then purchase an inline fuel filter to eliminate the rust getting into the carb.
If cleaning the carb yourself does not do the trick then take it to the dealer and have them clean it and install a carb kit. This should get you back on the road.
Post a comment to let me know how it goes. Then rate the solution > Hopefully it's a "FixYa" rating!
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
SOURCE: oil blowing out of exhaust
Run it out, The oil has collect in the exhaust media and baffles. Iver fill can cause this proble. As long as it has oil in it, run it out (burn it out) If the oil is low when you ck it, and that should be often, Then note it. Valve guide wear is progressive and the engine would smoke. Keep the oil level proper and take it on a mellow ride, no hard throttling. You should see an improvement after about 20 miles down the freewayat 60. Just stay alertand pay attention to the sound of the motor. Good luck and let me know when you get back.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
SOURCE: 83 suziki GS450 idle issues
the problem with the rubber was close but on the gs450 there is a metal insert that even if the rubber was rotted away the metal seals aginst the head so it cant leak. the problem is on the gs 450 suzuki used a cheap throttle cable that kinks behind the gas tank and kinks at the bend to the crabs under the set and the throttle system is a pull only not a dual cable pull push to always close the throttle. if you start the bike a wiggle the bend in the cable that comes out from the twist grip you will see it changes the idle. with either your finger or a screw driver and push the plate down on the carbs that the cable connects too. if the idle drops this conforms your problem. order a new cable from dennis kirk they have the revised one that has metal adjustment screw and metal clip in. better jacket casing as well.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
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