Question about 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Changed cam adjusters and added adjustable push rods motor seems weak on take off or lower end
Posted by Anonymous on
Cam adjusters???? Cam chain tensioners??
Adjustable pusgrods may not be adjusted properly. Hopefully all was allowed to bleed down while you were installing the adjustables.
Posted on Aug 31, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: adjust clutch cable
If you have a stock cable you need a 9/16 and a 1/2 in. wrench. about 1/2 way downn the cable there is a rubber boot. pull the rubber boot over the adjustment. Loosen the liock nut and adjust the cable so you have aprox 1/8 to 1/16 in. slack in the handle. Re tighten the lock nut and pull the rubber back over the adjustment.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
adjustment is in rockers, not springs; take it to a qualified tech; its not hard but does take practice and knowledge of what you are doing that is pretty tricky to convey in a chat room; springers are cool but very maintenance intensive; don't slack on it, it can be very dangerous...T
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
SOURCE: engine noise
If you dd not torque the front sprocket down correctly you could have an issue. If this is a new noise then be concerned, if this has progressed over time, then it is more than likely just the bike loosening up. Which is normal...but loud, could this be pre-detonation, did you make the correct adjustments to your MAP? Check you push rod adjustment with the bike cold, I mean Artic overnight not running cold.
Posted on Oct 07, 2009
SOURCE: vibration during deceleration
The final drive belt may be too tight. After all, Harley techs are human and make mistakes like everyone else. I've made my fair share of them.
The belt is supposed to be adjusted with the rider on the bike. This is difficult to do in the shop but if there's more than one mechanic, it can be done. Your're final drive belt should have about a 1/2" up an down play in it when a force of 10 pounds is applied to the belt on the lower run of the belt. Some bikes have a "guage" built right into the lower belt guard that looks like a slot with markings on the side. You can purchase one the small tool that applies pressure to the belt at the shop. They aren't expensive. Get someone about your weight to sit on the bike and readjust your final drive belt. If you get it too loose, it will squeak when you shift gears.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
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