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The cable tightness is loose therefore causing the light to come on while driving, tighten or replace the eb cable hope that helps or you need to push in the button on it hold the button and pull it back as far as you can. let go then push button pull back farther and release, this should tighten the tension.
First make sure the rear breaks are ajusted or replaced when worn out drum to be skeemed aswell. Usally whe rear brakes are ajusted hand break will stop car on two to four clicks on hand brake rachet. If brakes is ajusted check cables for wear . Then ajust cable insite car remove hand brake cover and you will see a ajustable screw or nut. Rememeber to put the handbrake on four clicks and dont tighten screw or nut to much the brakes will lock
Attach cable to brake shoe before mounting the brake. You might have to wedge it in position. After-which adjust brake shoe pressure against the drum. Loosen or tighten adjustment tension nut at the hand brake lever if necessary (before and after).
You need to
unscrew and loosen the brake pads with an Allen Key until you have enough slack
in the cables to reach tboth he pads and brake levers easily. Clutch one brake lever
(as you do when braking) to maximum, hook the grommet at the end of the cable into the hole slightly
larger than the grommet, then slide it back along the groove leading from the
hole so the cable is anchored in the pivot end of the lever, carefully threading
it through to the static rest that the lever rests against when released.
Extend the cable, now anchored at the brake lever at the end, down towards the brake pad on the same side of the bike. Feed
the grommet of the brake pad end of the cable through the hole in the retaining arm
holding the brake pad.
Holding the grommet to stop it springing back through the
hole with your subordinate hand, use your principal hand to take the Allen Key
and tighten the retaining arm of the brake pad adjusting the orientation of the
brake pad and the rim of the wheel as you go along. Just before the gripping point,
pull the cable down to take up any slack, pulling any extra length down through the hole
with your subordinate hand as you tighten with the Allen Key.
When the cable is held fast at the brake
pad end and the brake pads are well aligned with the wheel rim, test for the
correct tension on the brake lever and adjust the tension of the cable
process on the other side of the bike.
I hope this helps.
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One side of a center-pull brake can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the cable itself (the side with a screw holding the cable in place) The other side will have a small screw to adjust the tension on the spring. Sounds like you need to adjust your spring tension screw.
Give it a full (360-degree) rotation and work
the brakes a few times. If the problem is worse, then you need to
adjust it the other way. If it's getting better, then you're getting
closer. Make several small adjustments, and work the brakes a few times after each one, and you should be all set.
I did no find assembly instructions specific to this model. From what I see in pictures and descriptions it looks like a standard caliper brake on the front wheel. The knob/plug on the cable should fit into a groove and hole on the brake lever if the cable is slack enough to make the connection. You may have to loosen the cable tension nuts at the caliper and at the brake handle (labeled 1 & 2 in the instructions) to get enough slack.
Generic instructions are at:
See pages 21-23 for instructions about adjusting the brakes. You will have to do this after making the connection and it shows the various cable tension nuts that you can use to get enough slack in the cable to connect it. If you loosen the cable tension nuts (1&2) enough you should be able to remove the cable from the slot through the housing, expose the attachment slot in the brake handle by pressing it against the handlebar, insert the knob/plug into the hole and then work the cable back into the slot in the housing. Tighten up the tension nuts and make the final adjustments as described in the instructions.
Hope this helps. This is out of the factory manual. Let me know if this works for you.
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or disconnected for service. When adjustment is necessary, perform adjustment only as described in the following procedure. This is necessary to avoid faulty park brake operation.
Fully back off cable tensioner adjusting nut at equalizer to create slack in cables.
Remove rear wheel/tire assemblies. Remove brake calipers and rotors.
Verify park brakes are in good condition and operating properly.
Verify park brake cables operate freely and are not binding, or seized.
Check park brake shoe adjustment.
Reinstall rotors and make sure rotors turn freely.
The hand brake on Chevy's is self adjusting, if there is a cable to tight, just follow the car from the back wheel inside to the front, in the back inside you will see a cable conduit going in to drum or disk, follow it on both sides are going to join in to one in a triangle shaped to both inside drums, right on center of joint you will see tightening mechanism like long treated bolt and two nuts, loose one and go the oposite way
The handbrake adjustment is at the handbrake. Pull off the rubber boot around the hand brake. (it pulls open at the botto of the handle and slips off over it). Next locate the 10mm bolt under the rear cup holder (there may be a little felt in there covering it). Remove the bolt.
Lift the console at the rear, it should pop loose at the front and lift up. You should have clear access to the adjustment bolt. Loosen the 10mm locking nut and this should allow you to adjust the cable.
Turn the adjustment clockwise to tighten the cable and once adjusted, re-tighten the locking nut. Reverse the whole process to put the console etc back together.