Question about Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide Motorcycles
Posted by Anonymous on
After servicing the brakes in any way and before moving the motorcycle always pump the brakes to build brake system pressure and move the pistons and pads out against the brake rotor.
First remove the rear master cylinder reservoir cap and check the fluid level because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level will rise and you do not want it to overflow the reservoir and spill out and to avoid this you must remove sufficient fluid.
Second, loosen, but do not remove, both pad pins with a 12 point .025 inch socket wrench.
Thirdly pry the inside pad back using steady pressure and a sturdy scraper or large screw driver or similar suitable tool, prying between the pad and the brake disc in order to push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Fourthly, once the pistons have been fully retracted into their bores, pull the pad pins out part way only until the inside pads drop free.Do not completely pull the pad pins out from the caliper at this time because completely removing the pad pins at this time will cause you unnecessary difficulty during re-assembly. ALSO carefully note and remember each pad's original orientation for so you can put the new pads into the correct position and orientation in the caliper. Note that the front left, and the front right (if the front right is present) and all of the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. Install the pad with two tabs on the inboard side of the rear caliper.
Fifthly install the new inside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed (with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle.
Sixthly install the pad pins until the pins snap into place with an audible click but do not fully tighten them at this time.
Next pump the brake pedal lever to move the inside pistons out until they contact the inside brake pads and then pry the outside pad back to push the caliper pistons back into their bores and verify that the inside pads have been captured between the brake disc and the pistons. At this point you can completely remove the pad pins to free the outside brake pad. Again note the pad's original orientation for replacement purpose and orientation
.While the pad pins are out inspect them for grooving and wear and measure the pin diameter in an unworn area, and then in the area of any grooving or wear, and if wear is more than 0.015 in. (0.38mm), replace both pins.
THEN install the new outside brake pad using the same orientation as the pad previously removed and if the inside pad moved during the previous step, reinstall it with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of motorcycle.
THEN install both pad pins through holes in the inner and outer brake pads and tighten them to 180-200 in-lbs which is (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both of the brake pads and verify the correct piston location against the pads.
THEN check the brake fluid level in master cylinder and fill it up to the correct level if necessary using ONLY D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten the reservoir cap screws to 6-8
in-lbswhich is (0.7-0.9 Nm).
WHEN the bike is completely back together test the brakes at low speed in a safe area and also confirm that the brake light works properly and if the brakes feel at all spongy bleed them properly until a hard not spongy brake pedal is obtained. AND avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new pads to condition to the brake rotors.
Posted on Oct 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace rear brake pads
Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.
To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.
Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.
Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.
Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.
Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
Generally if you know how to use and what size tools to use, you can change the pads. Most time it is easier to do the fron than the back but then again on overall actually the back side is easier. Get a friend to help you when you dismantle the brake calipers, you need to press the brake pistons in using a C-clamp and once that is done need to bleed the brake line to bleed brake line just in case there is air bubble in the line.
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
remove wheel, remove brake, use a screwdriver to spread the gap between the pads( to make room for the new pads to fit on the disk...do not do this with the new pads you will mess them up) remove the 2 allen screw pins that hold the pads in place . if you are worried take out your phone and snap a pic of everything before you go to the next step. when the pins come out there is a spring plate in the top. dont forget it when you put the new pads in. installation is just a reverse of what you just did. be sure to squeeze the lever a few times when you are done re installing the calliper on the disk and check your brake fluid level under the seat--next to the battery on the right side- yeah under the starter relay---that thing with the red wir attached and the plug and clear cover.
Posted on Oct 02, 2010
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