Question about 2008 Honda Metropolitan Base

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Purchased a Honda Metropolitan CH50S scooter at an auction - it won't start - no lights - no horn...nothing - put battery on charger and it shows as full. I looked a fuses and they are not broken. There is a plastic connecter coming out of the fuse holder hanging free - is that supposed to be connected to something or is it used to test? Any help would be appreciated!

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  • Expert
  • 214 Answers

Just guessing the fuse holder hanging free is the one that powers the bike.

Posted on May 09, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: starting problems

I would start by checking your starter switch, ignition, the starter relay and then the kickstand saftey switch. There is a few things that happen when you start the bike. One, you depress the starter switch, the headlight shuts off, the starter relay closes and the bike starts. I'm not sure how or what creates this but I bet there is a relay somewhere along the line that cuts power to your headlight when you start the bike and its faulty and is causing both of the problems. It may stuck somewhere in the middle instead of open or closed. I would also suggest jumping your starter relay to see if it starts. If it doesnt, then it must in your ignition switch. Find your starter relay, there should be one red wire leading to it, another leading away. Very important... make sure your bike is in neutral.. the starter will fire not matter what. Take flat headed screw driver and connect the two post. It should fire right up. If it does, the lights should come on. It may be just enough to get that stuck relay unstuck.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Honda Metropolitan Scooter - cold engine starting problem

i had this problem before,i suggest first replacing starter valve w/ a chinese equivelent part(cheaper than honda but the same),can also replace w/ manual enrichener plunger, but it is inconveinent to access, or what i did was seal off plunger hole and squirted gas through fuel line and a primer bulb, teeing off from main fuel line run spigot fitting into plunger bore and jb weld to seal.now mount primer bulb in convienent location.definitely an unauthorized repair and a little tedious to fabricate ,but works like a charm, as those starter valves are notorious for not working correctly.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

goalie39
  • 469 Answers

SOURCE: Honda Melody Mini NP50D scooter - electrical issue?

if teh lights get brighter and the signals blink faster as you rev up the engine. then I would say you need to replace the battery

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: HONDA CBR 125R WILL NOT START WITHOUT BUMP START

I had the same problem with my 636. It turned out to be just a cable problem. Try to see if all the electric cables work correctly and connected.

Good Luck,
Elad.

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 82 honda Magna and it won't start. I

on the ignition switch follow the cable all the way down to where there is a removable connector. pull it off from the other cable and test the switch side of the connector. your will be looking for the solid red wire and the solid black or brown wire. On some bikes there are 2 or 3 brown wires (should have 2 browns and 1 black per the honda manual, but aftermarket wiring harnesses for the ignition switch don't always follow the honda factory color codes). with a multimeter set for diode/continuity (i like to have audible beep on mine) put the test leads on the solid red wire and the solid black wire, when you switch from off to on you should complete the circuit and the continuity will be there. if not then check to make sure the wiring harness is fully in contact with the switch and reseat if possible. retest and if same problem exists with no continuity then the switch is bad. I have found that old bike barn is the cheapest for the switch. (i have an 82 honda magna v45 vf750c) I have been through the same headache twice now with the iginition switch and it seams to just happen with no warning or precursors).

Posted on May 28, 2009

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I recently had the rear plastic off my 05 honda metropolitan and now it wont start only click click click help


Hi, Robert before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries. A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that may or may not be sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK". The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
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I have a honda metropolitan scooter i need to order a new fuesbox that connects to the battery


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2002 Honda metropolitan won't run got spark to plug an gas to the carb I reset ecm spins over but no attempt to start also headlight doesn't work but getting fire to the plug an bulb works with jumper


Hi, Lewis and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enricher.
5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
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10. Severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
11. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
12. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
13. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty MAP, CKP, O2, TPS, sensors.
14. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
15. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
16. Faulty CDI box.
17. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
18. Tip over sensor needs a reset.
19. Check for engine trouble codes.
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Starts and runs but will only go 25 top end and 10 going up a hill. I cleaned carb, and changed plug. Filter good. Any help about how what to try next?


Dennis, Write up found in scooter guide.net link below.This scooter was restricted to 25mph via a series of restrictions to the variator, ECU, intake and camshaft. 2009 was the last model year for this CHF50 in Canada and the USA, although this scooter was available for a few years after this due to excess inventory from the 2009 crash of the scooter market.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
14. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
15. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
16. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
17. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
18. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
19. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
20. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
21. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
22. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
23. Check for engine trouble codes.
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2005 honda metropolitan won't start


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. Faulty ignition relay.
14. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
15. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Scooter's horn works but the battery is not charging when plugged in.


hi, right first of all, check the charger, check the fuse located in the charger if fitted, best way to test it is to try it on another scooter.

Now if youre sure the charger is working ok look at the charger socket is it a loose fitting if so wiggle it about gently, does the charger accept it charging ? is there a charging light on the scooter ? if so does it change colour when inserted , if not bad charger or charger fitting ? now if you have a multimeter , remove the seat and the cover under that , mind how you do this as it easily to hurt your back, show now you can see the batteries , check the leads to the batteries, have they come loose, now using the meter put a prode on a red terminal and the other lead on the other battery black terminal, now change terminal if no reading until you get about 20 to 25 volts , now inserted the battery charger , has the voltage changed or watch as it will start to rise , give it 20 minutes or so and if nothing changed , it pointing at your charger as having a fault ,even if the batteries are no good it will see show some output, now if the voltage measured on the batteries is lower than 18 Volts depending on scooter it will never move but the horn will still work as that requires only 12V.

Please leave feedback if this helps

Regards

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Just bought my dad a second hand go go 3 wheel elite scooter


Hi Linda. Sometimes if there is a blown fuse or faulty connector on the battery leads, the charger thinks the batteries are charged as the voltage coming out of the charger rises to the high level. Some chargers will cut out if this happens. It is probably not the charger.
Make sure the batteries are plugged in correctly, sometimes during transport they will get knocked and become disconnected.
Also make sure that the battery terminals are not loose where the wires connect to the batteries.
Good luck. Neil.

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