Question about 2000 Buell X1 lightning

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How to disassemble a 2000 x1 fork tube

How to disassamble for tube to replace seals fork tubes are off the bike the fork bolt does not come off the inner tube

Posted by Anonymous on

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Hi, Anonymous sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Buell despair not for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day.
2008 Buell XB12SCG Fork Seals
Seal Mate the Tool that Fixes Leaking Fork Seals
http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/x1lightning/2002_x1_manual.pdf
TWIN Motorcycles Buell parts
Buell Motorcycle Owners Manuals

Posted on Jan 14, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

didik23
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Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 buell m2 cyclone leaking fork seals

Check out badweatherbikers.com and I am sure you will find everything you want about working on your Buell. Good luck

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

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How do i rebuild 41mm forks


Depends on how much rebuilding you want to do.
See below:

FRONT FORK 2.16
CHANGING FORK OIL On a 2010 Touring Motorcycle 41 mm Fork
If only replacing the fork oil remove the for, clamp a fork holder tool in a vise in a horizontal position and with the fork cap bolt topside securely clamp the fork into the tool, remove the fork cap bolt, remove and discard the quad ring seal, carefully remove the fork tube plug from the fork tube and because it is under strong spring pressure have and maintain a firm grasp on the plug as the last thread is turned because it will want to fly upwards under the spring pressure, remove and discard the O-ring fork tube plug o-ring, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, being aware that the damper valve if one is installed (All touring models, with the exception of Road King, have a damper valve type fork on both the left and right sides. Road King uses the conventional type fork on both sides.) will fall out when the fork tube is inverted for draining turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a suitable drain pan while slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times and then allow about 10-15 minutes for the fork assembly to completely drain. THEN with the fork tube right-side-up securely clamp the fork slider (not the fork tube) into the fork tube holder, install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider, if it had been removed and tighten the plug to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

MODEL FORK TYPE AMOUNT
OZ. ML IN. MM
All models Damper Valve 10.7 317 4.92 125
Except FLHR/C
FLHR/C Conventional 11.0 325 4.92 125

Pour slightly more Harley-Davidson Type E Fork Oil directly into the fork tube than is specified for the fork type, slowly pump the fork tube until some resistance is felt and then pump a few more times and then for all models except FLHR/C (i.e. for damper valve type forks), install a new wear ring in its groove in the damper valve, with the wear ring at the bottom (spring side up) slide the damper valve into the fork tube, install the fork spring into the fork tube, use the fork spring to push the damper valve to the bottom of the fork tube, remove the fork spring from the fork tube, slowly pump the fork tube a few more times to eliminate air from the damper valve, adjust the ring of a fork level gauge 4.92 inches or 125mm and then with the fork tube bottomed in the fork slider insert the tube of the gauge into the fork slider until the metal ring rests flat on the top of the fork tube and use the gauge plunger to draw oil from fork (if no oil is drawn out, add a small amount to the fork tube and repeat the process) until the oil level is at the specified level in the fork slider, install the fork spring into the fork tube with the tighter wound coils at the bottom, remove the fork slider from the fork tube holder tool, clamp fork tube into the fork tube holder tool, install a newO-ring onto the fork tube plug, install the fork tube plug into the fork tube and tighten it to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm), install a newquad ring seal onto the fork cap bolt and install it into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while working further with it. THEN on right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts, install the fork and assemble the motorcycle.

To remove a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRSTraise the front wheel, remove the front wheel, remove the front fender, and for FLHR/C remove the headlamp nacelle. And for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK remove inner fairing cap, and for FLTRX remove the instrument nacelle, loosen the fork cap bolt, but do not
remove it at this time, loosen the pinch bolt but do not remove it, hold the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug, slide the fork tube down to remove. And loosely install the fork cap bolt to prevent loss of fork oil while working with the fork.

DISASSEMBLY
To disassemble a 2010 Touring 41mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork assembly, the right side fork remove the axle holder from the end of the fork slider, drain the fork, install the fork spring into the fork tube, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down, press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube and remove the metric screw from the end of the fork slider with an air impact wrench, discard the screw and copper washer, remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if equipped) and the damper tube from the fork tube, remove the wear ring and rebound spring from the damper tube, remove the wear ring from the damper valve, (if equipped), remove the retaining clip using an appropriate pick tool, remove the fork tube from the fork slider by using the fork tube as a slide hammer tool, slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off from the end of the fork tube, discard the fork oil seal and the slider bushing, gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing and remove it from its groove at the end of the fork tube, discard the fork leg bushing and remove the lower stop from fork the slider.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts and replace any parts that are corroded, bent, inoperative or otherwise obviously damaged, inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug o-ring for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration and replace if and as necessary, replace the retaining clip if is bent or distorted, check the slider and the fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing needs to be replaced, check both the fork tube and the fork slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace parts if and as required, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure its runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace it if the runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm), inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion, and replace the upper fork spring if its free length is less than19.27 in. (489.4 mm) for Non-Fairing Models and 18.73 in. (475.7 mm) for Fairing Models and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or any time the upper fork spring is replaced.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST coat the ID of the fork leg bushing with clean fork oil, expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only enough to slip it over the end of the fork tube and into its groove on the fork tube, install a newwear ring into the groove at the top of the damper tube, install the rebound spring on the opposite end, with the wear ring topside slide the damper tube into the fork tube so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube, install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube, install the fork slider into the fork tube holder tool, slide the fork tube into the fork slider, coat the ID of the slider bushing with clean fork oil, slide the slider bushing down the fork tube, slide a 41 mm fork seal installer tool down the fork tube and using the it as a slide hammer drive the slider bushing into the counterbore of the fork slider, then remove the tool, place masking tape over edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation, coat the ID ofa new fork oil seal with clean new fork oil, then with the lip garter spring side facing down toward the fork slider slide the seal down the fork tube until it contacts the slider spacer, remove the masking tape from the edge of the fork tube and using the 41 mm fork seal installer tool as a slide hammer, drive the fork oil seal down the fork tube until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal in the ID of the fork slider, remove the tool, install the retaining clip in the groove, install the fork spring into fork the fork tube, remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder tool, place a shop cloth or towel on the floor, turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of the spring against the shop cloth or towel to prevent rotation of the damper tube, install a new screw and a new copper washer at the bottom of the fork slider and while compressing the spring tighten the screw to 132-216 in lbs(14.9-24.4 Nm), remove the fork spring from the fork tube, fill the fork with fork oil to the specified amount and complete assembly of the fork. On the right side fork, loosely install the axle holder with its flat
washers, lockwashers and nuts.

INSTALLATION
To install a 2010 Touring 41 mm fork assembly FIRST remove the fork cap bolt, slide the fork tube up and into the slider cover, lower the fork bracket, the fork stop, and the upper fork bracket, install the fork cap bolt, install the pinch bolt and lockwasher into the lower fork bracket and tighten the pinch bolt to 53-57 ft-lbs(71.9-77.3 Nm), tighten the fork cap bolt to 60-70 ft-lbs (81.4-94.9 Nm) and repeat these steps on the other fork, install the front fender and wheel, and for FLHR/C install the headlamp nacelle, for FLHX, FLHT/C/U, FLHTK install the fairing inner cap and for FLTRX install the instrument nacelle.

May 15, 2014 | 2010 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

1 Answer

I have a 2002 flstc , just replaced the " fork seals ", still leaking on left side. i was told to replace " oil seals " under the " slide tube cap " and spacer. will this...


Well, yes. The fork seals are located at the top of the fork slider un the "slide tube cap". This makes me wonder exactly what did you replace when you say that you just replaced the "fork seals". To get to these oil seals, you have to disassemble the forks tubes. Remove the front wheel and fenders. Down where you took the axle out, look up into the end of the slider and you'll see a socket head bolt, 6mm. Loosen this bolt before you take the tube out of the triple tree. Remove and repair one tube at the time. When you get the slider off the top tube, you will see a retainer ring in the top of the slider. The seal is under this ring. The new oil seals must be replace squarely in the tube. When you reassemble the tube and put it back in the triple tree, there is a specific amount of fork oil that must be added to each tube to properly refill it. You must use the "dry" quantity when refilling the fork tube because you disassembled and completely drained the tube. I'm sorry but I don't have this quantity of fork oil for this late of a model bike. I work on the earlier model bikes only.

good luck
steve

Jul 19, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage...

1 Answer

How do i change fork seals on a roadster 1983?


First you must get your bike off the ground in a safe manner so that you can work on it without it falling over. Safety first. Then remove the front wheel and the front fender. Take the brake calipers off. Loosen and remove the top nut on one tube. Work on one tube at the time. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Slide the entire fork tube out of the triple trees. Hold the spring in the tube and turn it upside down and drain the oil from the tube. Take the spring out. Notice one end is tapered, this end goes into the tube first. Turn the entire tube upside down and you'll see a socket head allen bolt in the bottom of the slider where the axle goes. This is a "piloted hex key" bolt. It takes a special piloted hex key to remove it but you can get it out if you use a brand new hex key or one that has been ground off on the end so that the edges of the hex key are not rounded. The size is 6mm on most front ends. Take this bolt out and the top tube pulls out of the lower slider. The seal is in the top of the slider. Take the boot off, the snap ring out and pry the old seal out. Replace the seal and reassemble the tube in reverse of how you disassembled it. Get the tube back in the triple trees and add the correct amount of oil to the tube Use the quantity listed for a "dry" tube because you completely emptied the fork tube. Put the spring back in and replace the top cap. Then, go to the next tube. Do not forget to tighten the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 07, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLS 1000 Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do i take apart front forks on a 2000 sportster


Jack the bike up off the ground. Remove the front wheel and front fender. Loosen the pinch bolt in the lower triple tree and take the nut off the top of the upper tube at the upper tree. The fork assembly should slide down and out of the triple trees. Invert the fork tube to pour out the oil and remove the spring. Look on the very end of the lower slider where there is an 8mm bolt. Take the bolt out and the lower slider comes off the upper tube. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Add the correct amount of oil for a "dry" rebuild.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 30, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 S Sportster...

1 Answer

Replace fork seal


jack the bike up so it will be stable with the front wheel off of the bike.
Take the caliper and fender off of the forks.
Remove the wheel and loosen the tripple tree fork tube bolts so you can slip the forks out of them.
Take the fork tube top nuts off of the forks ( there is a spring in them , so be careful not to be in the way when it springs out !
Take the drain screw out of the bottom front of the forks and using the fork tube like a pump... push down and compress the fork tube to pump out the oil in the tube...
Take the bolt that goes up from the bottom of the tube out... This will release the upper portion of the tube enough to remove it from the assembly... you may have to drive the seal up toward the top of the tube by using the upper as a slide hammer... but it will come off.
Thoroughly clean the tube and parts in a pats cleaner or solution... and reassemble in reverse order.

Sep 30, 2010 | 2004 Honda CRF 230 F

1 Answer

Fork seal replacement


If all you want to do it replace your fork seals, if you can find a way to jack the bike high enough, you don't have the fork tubes our ot the triple trees. Work with on fork tube at a time. Raise the bike up off the ground and take the front wheel and fender off. Brake caliper off it's tube. Now raise the bike up to where you've got about a foot of clearance below the lowest point of the slider. Look underneath the slider where the axle goes through and you'll see an 8mm bolt. Take this bolt out and your lower slider will come off. The fork oil will start to drain as soon as you take the bolt loose as well. Leave a pan under the upper fork while you work on the lower to catch the dripping oil. Replace the fork seal and reassemble that tube. Then, do the next one. Now, refill the tube with the correct amount of the correct oil from the top by removing the top cap nut. Pour in the correct amount of oil for a "wet" refill. The thicker the viscosity of the oil, the firmer the front fork action. I think they came with H-D type E which seems to be a bit softer action than 30 weight fork oil. Make sure you use fork oil. Regular engine oil or transmission oil should not be used and it will foam if you're riding down a rough road and your forks will collapse and not work until the oil settles again. Not a pleasant feeling. It's really doubtful if you'll get anywhere that is that rough with your Harley.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 12, 2010 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

1 Answer

Change fork seals on 98 fxdl


You'll have to take each fork leg out of the front end to change the seals. I'm not positive what type front end is on FXDL but it it's a standard type (as opposed to an inverted front end), it's not too difficult.

First remove any sheet metal that might be covering the upper and lower triple trees. Lift the bike off the ground and remove the front fender and front wheel. Loosen the pinch bolt on the upper and lower triple trees. Do one tube at the time. Lubricate the portion of the top tube that is between the upper and lower triple tree. You must slide the fork assembly out of the triple trees. Loosen but don't remove the top caps.

With the fork assembly now out of the triple trees, remove the top cap and pull the spring out. Notice if the spring has a tapered end. Remember which way it came out so you can put it back in the same way. Invert the tube and pour out the oil and let it drain.

You'll see an 8mm bolt in the bottom. Sometimes this is a shallow piloted bolt. If so, you'll need at least a brand new hex key or allen wrench to loosen the bolt. Take the bolt out and slide the lower slider off the top tube. You now have access to the seal. Make sure you put the seal in faceing the correct way. Rince the slider out on the inside with clean mineral spirits and allow to dry. When you assemble the tube and install it on the bike, the amount of oil you put in it is the "dry" amount since you disassembled the tube and poured all the oil out. Put the sping back in the tube and install the top cap. Insert the tube into the triple trees and slide the tube upwards until the top of the top cap is 0.420" to 0.500" above the top of the upper triple tree (notice the height of the other tube that you haven't moved yet).

Good Luck
steve

Aug 17, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXDL - FXDLI Dyna Low...

1 Answer

How much trouble is it to change front fork seals on a 2000 wide glide and do you have instructions on it?


If, notice I said "if", your bike has the standard 41mm wide glide front end, changing the fork seals is not that difficult.

Get the bike up off the ground on a stable lift. Safety is paramount.

Now take the front wheel and fender off. Take the large "Bolt" out of one of the fork tubes at the upper triple tree. There are special sockets made to do this with so that you won't scratch your chrome upper tree. Loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. Put some lubricant on the fork tube and work it down and out of the triple trees. You may have to spead the lower triple tree by driving a chisel into the slot from the bottom side.

Once you have one of the fork tubes out. Remove the plug at the top. There will be a large spring under the plug. Usually it doesn't have much pressure on it with the tube fully extended and if it's the stock spring. With the plug and the spring out, you can pour the oil out of the tube. Notice which direction the spring comes out of the tube. I must go back in with the tapered end down.

Look on the bottom of the tube where the axle goes through. You'll see an allen head or socket head bolt in there. It' should be an 8mm sized bolt but it takes a "piloted" hex key. Now, you can use a standard hex key but it must be in new condition since the bolt head is so shallow. I have found that a hex key socket used with an air wrench is best to get the screw out. With the screw, you can now seperate the upper fork tube from the lower slider.

Remove the retainer ring in the top of the slider and pry out the old seal. Install the new seal in the proper direction. Reassemble the fork assembly. Now, add the proper amount of oil to the tube before you install the upper plug. The forks take 10.2 to 11.2 ounces of oil each. The lower figure is for a "Wet" refill and the higher number is for a "Dry" refill. If you take your fork tube apart and pour out all the oil, use the "dry" figure of 11.2 ounces type "E" or 30 weight fork oil. If the forks are too stiff with this oil, drop back to 20 weight fork oil.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 29, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

How do u disassemble forks


Here is a diagram of your forks:
http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaMC.asp?Type=13&A=140&B=28
Assuming you have already removed your fork cap, you will need to remove the clip # 5 and the bolt # 18 then in a slide hammer type action, pull the upper tube out of the lower tube. There is a washer underneath the fork seal that will pull the fork seal out with the upper tube, so you have to compress the fork tube, then give it a good yank to pull the seal and separate the tubes.

A couple of tips here. First, to loosen the fork cap, loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt at each fork leg before removing the forks from the bike, then loosen the fork cap. You don't have to take the cap off at this time, but break it loose. It is very difficult to hold the fork tube and prevent it from turning once the fork is off the bike and out of the clamp. It is much easier to break it loose and leave it finger tight before dropping the forks out of the triple clamps. The key thing to remember is loosen the pinch bolt before attempting to loosen the cap. The pinch bolt applies extra pressure to the cap and can complicate the process of loosening the cap if left tight.
The other tip would be to use a 3/8" air impact wrench to loosen the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. The internals will want to spin if you try to do it by hand.

Oct 03, 2009 | 1994 Yamaha FZR 600

3 Answers

82 honda sabre fork seal replacement


No special tools other than maybe an air-impact whench to remove the Allen bolts in the bottom of the fork sliders. These hold the botom of the metering rods into the forks and will spin if you don't have Honda's special tool which fits down the inside of the fork tube. Air wrench spins them off no problem.

V65 Sabre has fule filter behind battery and fule shutoff valve under seat.

Loosen upper triple-clamp pinch bolt before trying to remove fork cap.

Drain oil out of fork, then remove axle and access the metering rod holder bolt at the bottom inside the area whre the axles goes. Use an air wrench and appropriate Allen bit.

Remove fork cap, being careful of the spring pressure.

Remove fork from bike and take out spring and metering rod. Pry dust seal out of fork slider and use snap-ring pliers to remove retainer from beneath dust seal. Use fork tube to hammer seal and slider bushing out of fork slider.

Replace seal and use old seal to cushion it. Make a fork seal driver from split PVC pipe and hammer seal and slider bushing back in. Remove old seal and replace retainer clip. Install dust seal.

Reinstall on bike and install spring. With bike properly supported, stand on pegs and use ratchet, extension and socket to apply pressure to spring and thread cap carefully onto top of fork tube. Reinstall metering rod holder bolt in bottom of fork using thread-locker and air-wrench. Don't over-tighten; just ue high speed to conteract tendency of metering rod to spin inside slider.

Remove fork cap again and fill to appropriate level with 5 weight fork oil (Pro Honda SS-7 or equivalent). Use turkey-baster to remove excess oil to proper level (5 1/2 to 7 inches fully compressed depending on damping quality desired).

Jun 03, 2009 | 1985 Honda VF 1100 Sabre

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