Question about 1989 Honda GL 1500 Gold Wing
Over all length
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Aug 05, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Fork oil capacity should be 10.9 oz in the left, and 10.8 oz right. Lower pinch bolt torque is 40 ft-lb and upper is 8 ft-lb. The steering stem nut is 72 ft-lb and the steering stem adjustment nut is 17 f-lb.
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks for your help, I made a copy of it so I would have it on hand.. "
SOURCE: 2008 Gold Wing 4783 miles:
Three things can cause this. Low tire pressure. A cupped or damaged tire. But most likely loose steering head bearings. If the bearings in the frame neck are not tight enough it can cause shimmys/wobbles/and vibration.Many mechanics fail to adjust the bearings at the 600 mile check up to save time. Some disassembly required. Many times the tool kit has a curved tool with a single tooth for adjusting shocks. If you have one available you can use this to turn the bearing nut on the top of steering neck.
Posted on Sep 13, 2010
Not sure what you mean by a slide moving, but it sounds like a carb based issue. Carb balancing needs to happen at idle, like most people know, but ALSO at 2500 or so, actuated by throttle control. Balancing at the higher speed makes your machine run tons better and last longer.
Posted on Nov 12, 2010
Honda did away with Reverse Gear in 1991 dropping 40lbs of weight off the bike. The years that Reverse was available on the Gold Wing were 1988 to 1990 and there is no way to add Reverse to later years.
Posted on Jan 09, 2011
Sounds to me like you have a leak in your hydraulic clutch system. Your clutch lever will start to feel odd as (1) fluid leaks out, reducing pressure; and (2) less pressure reaches critical areas because pressure over a certain level is squirting fluid out of the system.
Leaks like these are often caused by one of two things: (1) a hydraulic line that has sprung a leak; or (2) a leaking / cracked fluid reservoir on your clutch slave cylinder. I am discounting the possibility that the slave cylinder itself is going bad, as that wouldn't create fluid leaks external to the system.
To troubleshoot your system, top off the fluid reservoir and then squeeze the clutch lever repeatedly while looking closely to see where fluid may be leaking out. MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING GLASSES OR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES WHEN YOU DO THIS!! A pinhole leak in a hydraulic line can shoot out a thin but forceful jet of fluid, and that's really nasty stuff to get into your eyes (it's bad enough on your skin or on the painted surfaces of your bike). The leak won't dribble all the time, only when you're applying pressure, which is why you'll need to keep working the clutch lever while you're looking for leaks. The location of the leak will tell you a lot.
Though I can't see your bike, I'm leaning towards the idea that a hose or, more specifically, the metal end of the hose, is leaking fluid under pressure. If this is the case, you should be able to obtain a replacement hose/line from a Honda dealer and swap it out without too much of a bother. If you're in the middle of nowhere and can't get to a Honda dealer, it's also possible that a hose shop could fabricate a custom line for you if you're able to show them your old hose.
On the other hand, if you have a cracked reservoir, you most likely will have to replace the entire clutch actuating assembly (slave cylinder? clutch cylinder?). That part should be relatively exposed--it may be mounted to the handlebars out in plain view; you won't have to mess with the actual clutch inside the transmission. Because of the location where fuel is puddling, though, I think this is less likely than a hose / hose connection problem.
Good luck, and I hope this doesn't spoil your vacation!
Posted on Jul 25, 2011
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