Question about kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic Motorcycles

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2000 idle good run good at low speed but will not nur over 55mph. Seems to choke out but will run if i back of throttle.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 254 Answers

SOURCE: choke on a suzuki gs1100 gk /mikuni 34mm carbs

cables too tight , poor lubrication of choke and or throttle cable

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: 93 GSX 750f wont idle w/o choke

sounds like a bad diaphram in one of the carbs

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 83 suziki GS450 idle issues

the problem with the rubber was close but on the gs450 there is a metal insert that even if the rubber was rotted away the metal seals aginst the head so it cant leak. the problem is on the gs 450 suzuki used a cheap throttle cable that kinks behind the gas tank and kinks at the bend to the crabs under the set and the throttle system is a pull only not a dual cable pull push to always close the throttle. if you start the bike a wiggle the bend in the cable that comes out from the twist grip you will see it changes the idle. with either your finger or a screw driver and push the plate down on the carbs that the cable connects too. if the idle drops this conforms your problem. order a new cable from dennis kirk they have the revised one that has metal adjustment screw and metal clip in. better jacket casing as well.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE WON'T IDLE UNLESS CHOKE IS OUT.

Sounds like you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Either your intake seals or the carb seal is leaking air. Have you replaced the air filter housing? On the Evolution and later engines, the carb is designed as a "spigot seal" type carb. In other words, it just pushes into a seal instead of bolting on like the older carbs did. This means that the carb has to be aligned correctly or an air leak can occur around the seal. The air filter assembly is what holds the carb. into the seal and aligns the carb.

If you haven't messed with the air filter assembly there is one other thing that I've seen cause this problem. Your bike has two vacuum operated devices on it. One is the VOES switch and the other is the fuel petcock. The VOES switch is part of th igniton system and the petcock is the fuel valve on the fuel tank. The vacuum comes from either the carb or the intake manifold and is routed to the devices by a vacuum hose. Make sure this hose in connected to all three locations and has no holes in it. The vacuum hose to the petcock is on the backside of the petcock and the VOES is located on the bottom of the frame top tube under the fuel tank near the carb.

I have seen the vacuum operated petcock cause a vacuum leak in at least one occasion. Normally, when they go bad they just shut the fuel off to the carb and the engine won't run. But, I did have one that caused a severe vacuum leak and the bike acted exactly like you're describing. I took the petcock out of the tank. Drain the fuel first, not easy to do with the petcock being vacuum operated. I got a large funnel and held it under the petcock while I slowly unscrewed it. Once you have the petcock out, you'll see four small screws on the back side of it where the vacuum hose connects. Remove the screws and check the diagraphm behind the plate. Be careful, there is a small spring behind the plate. Take the petcock apart carefully so you can remember how to properly reassemble it.

Personally, I would eliminate the vacuum operated petcock and replace it with a high quality manual operated petcock. Like I said earlier, if they malfunction they usually shut the fuel off to the engine. There you are, a full tank of fuel but none to the engine. I'd replace it with an original Harley unit for a 1995 or earlier bike or a high quality aftermarket unit like a Pingle.

You need to find this problem before you ride the bike too much. The lean mixture resulting from a vacuum leak will cause the engine to run very hot.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: yamaha xv 1100 virago

To me it sounds like the coil is breaking down and not working at higher RPM's. You can take them off and have them tested at a service shop.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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Triumph Tiger 885 rough idle


Hi, Margret and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
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1 Answer

Why does it run only with the throttle in choke position?


Hi John:
Sounds like it's too lean.
Try backing out the high speed screw 1/2 turn at a time until you don't need the choke. Then tune the high speed with saw running at full throttle. Screw in (lean) until RPM starts to drop, then back out 1/3 to 1/2 turn. Then set low speed at idle so engine is smooth but chain does not turn.

Nov 30, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

2013 Honda Activa will not idle when warm


Hi, P and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Choke problems


I take it that you have a carby in which case adjust the choke cover so that the cam engages the throttle lever and holds the throttle open until the bi-spring in the choke cover moves enough to move the cam out of the away allowing normal idle. If you have efi (Not from your choke word) then run fault codes and see which sensor is faulty. There should be an idle speed around 1200 RPM idle in efi for around 3 minutes and then the idle should drop back.

Sep 22, 2013 | Dodge Ram 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Poulan 45cc chainsaw will start running with starting with choke, but will not stay running.


Sounds like the low speed fuel adjustment is out of whack....you can reset it by turning it in all the way clockwise...then as a starting point, turn it out 1 and 1/2 times, start the engine and slowly adjust the screw until the engine starts to choke out..when this occurs, turn it back in until it starts to choke again...then you need to set it somewhere in between to find the "happy medium"....thew high speed screw is adjusted after you get the engine idling properly...if you haven't messed with this then I wouldn't worry about it..unless you have poor high speed operation, then you will need to set the high speed screw...the object here is to obtain the best low to high speed throttle...if , when you throttle up the saw, the engine bogs or goes to high speed slowly , here is where you adjust to get the best throttle response...use small increments until you achieve the desired response

Apr 26, 2011 | Poulan Garden

3 Answers

My 2000 ranger idles really low and sonetimes even dies. ihave to push gas pedal little bit to get it started


The Idle Air Control (IAC) is not working.... This is a very common problem and very easy to fix. The IAC will run you about $50 (USD) and the only tools needed is a 8mm socket. Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the 2 8mm hex screws, remove IAC. Reverse order to install.

It looks like the picture below


dttech_6.jpg

Mar 25, 2011 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Husqvarna 51 idle seems to struggle, runs OK when I throttle then chokes and dies out as soon as the throttle is released. What can I do?


will it start right back up after it dies? you could use a small screwdriver and turn the idle screw in a little to raise the idle speed that should fix it.

Oct 09, 2010 | Husqvarna , No.455 Rancher, 20" Gas -...

2 Answers

Mighty lite 26ss starts fine, but needs half choke for a long time. Runs for 10-15 mins. and seems to starve out. Acts like an air leak at carb or downstream. Any ideas?


I fixed one of these with the same problem yesterday. Theonly thing I've found wrong with this little saw is the carbs are terriblyadjusted from the factory and the mixture screws have a 'proprietary' head.they're a flat-topped cylinder with a notch in the side.

fortunately, there is a way to turn them. The insulation on a blue solderlesselectrical terminal will grip the outside of the mixture screws enough to movethem. you use the big end of the insulation you stick the wire into. doesn'tmatter what kind of terminal it is. splices work the best because theinsulation is long enough that you can grab on to it, but I just pulled theinsulation off a spade terminal and used pliers to turn it, as I didn't haveany splices.

I pulled both mixture screws out and cut a slot across the top with a smallfile so I can turn them with a flat head screwdriver. if you do this, only pullout one at a time, they need to go back in the respective seat they came fromor they won't seat properly.

I also took a file and cut an access notch in the air cleaner housing so Icould adjust the high mix while the trimmer was running. takes 10 seconds witha coarse round file, but a chainsaw file takes forever.

To set your mixtures, screw both mixture screws all the way in until theylightly seat. DON'T tighten them way down, just lightly seated.
now, look at where the notch is pointed and turn them out 1 1/4 turns. turningthem out (counterclockwise) makes the mixture richer. turning them in(clockwise) makes the mixture leaner.

now, screw the idle in a full turn so it idles very high (you'll turn this backout later, but this takes some of the frustration out of tuning the carb). You maywant to take the string head off, as it will 'run' at idle now.prime the trimmer (10 pushes if you haven't tried to startit earlier, 2-3 if you did. you can't over-prime, though, you're just removingair bubbles from the fuel pump)

put it on full choke, grab the throttle with your left hand and pull the recoiluntil it tries to start. if this takes 10+ pulls, turn the low speed jetout(richer, counterclockwise) 1/16 to 1/8 turn. you want to work in smallincrements, or you'll waste a bunch of time overshooting where you want to be.

once you get it to bump over full choke, back the choke off a bit. if you'requick you can usually do this while thetrimmer is trying to run fully choked. most likely you're still going to belean on the high mixture, so having the throttle pulled may kill the saw. if itseems like it's dying when the throttle is pulled, but not at idle, then you needto turn out the high speed mixture screw.Concentrate on getting the low speed jet set so it will idlewith the choke off and the throttle off first. Once you get it so it will idle unattended, you can startbacking the idle speed down. From there, you can adjust the low speed jet whilethe saw is idling. Start by turning it leaner in small 1/16 turn incrementsuntil the speed picks up. If this kills the saw before the idle picks up, youhad it a bit too lean to start. if you get the idle to pick up, richen up themixture 1/16 turn. You want to be just richer than where the speed picks up. Ifthe saw died before it picked up, richen it up 1/2 a turn and start it again. Leanit out as before until the speed picks up, then richen it up a bit. This may sound time consuming, but you can stick ascrewdriver on the idle screw and gently turn it in continuously, so itactually goes pretty quickly once you get the saw to idle.Now that you have it idling nicely, you can adjust the highspeed jet. Start by 'blipping' the throttle. If the trimmer bogs down, richenthe high mixture. Now, if you're WAY rich, it will behave similarly, but with thistrimmer, that's pretty unlikely if you're starting at 1 1/4 turns. One way youcan tell if you're way lean or way rich is with the choke. If it will run fullthrottle with the choke part way on or if it picks up faster with the choke partway on, you know it's too lean. The choke richens the mixture up to compensatefor the gas condensating in the throttle bore when the saw is cold. If thechoke kills it, you're too rich.if it will run, then you can adjust the high speed similarlyto the idle. A leaner mixture will have more power and spin a higher RPM to apoint, but it will also run MUCH hotter and an excessively lean mixture willseize the piston. So, you're going to want to err on the rich side. You'lldefinitely be able to hear the rpm change, a way rich mixture will be almost 1/2the speed of the proper mixture, and a too lean mixture will sound like thetrimmer is going to fly apart at the seams. Once you get the high mixture to the point that you can grabthe throttle and the saw will pick up to max speed in less than a second, thenyou're ready to cut something. You may need to adjust the mixture leaner for abit more power if it bogs down in normal grass trimming, or if it is running througheverything including big weeds without changing speed, you should probablyrichen it up. This is NOT a big trimmer, it SHOULD bog down a bit if you loadit up.A final note about this trimmer, I never could get it to acceleratesmoothly from idle to high speed. It lags for about 1/4 second just above idlethen it picks up as it should. It runs fine once it gets past that hesitation,you can vary the throttle to be delicate around things, ect, but if you let itidle, it does hesitate when you pull the throttle again.I was pretty surprised how well it ran once I tuned itthough, this one is my boss's and he's got a 3-blade cutting head on it that'sa lot heavier than the string head and it will spin it just fine. It will cutdown saplings to maybe 5/8".Good luck!

Jun 26, 2009 | Homelite Mighty Lite Lawn Trimmer

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