Question about 2002 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted or pinched.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZF600R Forums View topic Tired of this issue random high idle
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Posted on Aug 12, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
hey dude,, just thought id come in and give u some tips or 3,, i take it when u pull clutch lever in, and try and change gear it feels like your foot will snap b4 it goes in gear,, if that makes sense,, firstly mate,is to make sure the clutch cable slides freely ,easest way is to take cable off and just grab 1 end and make sure it isnt sticky,, if so dip one end of the cable in a bit of old oil ,,whilst holdin the other end ,pull and push the cable inner, this will **** up a bit of lubricant inside the cable ,, keep doin this each end till free to move, ,,next step if the cables ok,,, and may need help if u dont no,drain the oil out,,and as u r sat on the bike is to remove the clutch casing on the right hand side of the moter,where the bottom end of the cable goes,remove the casing being carefull not damage the gasket,,then u will see clutch plates and friction plates housed,, undo the 7 or 8 spring loaded bolts carefully take the first fibre plate out then metal friction plate then another fibre plate and so on,, wen u take the 1st plate out place that on the bench ,stacking each plate on top of one another, cause they have to go back in as they came out,,wen out,,u need a piece of wet n dry paper ,or fine emery,,and just wipe round both sides of the fibre plates taking the shine off them,as u put them back in,, put casing back on with a decent gasket,, oil back in cable on, make sure cable has no free play on the lever so wen u r about to pull lever in it bite straight away,, start her up, warm it up and try it,,any probs still il eat my shoe,, take care m8
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
SOURCE: clutch pulling
Your clutch is not fully disengaging.Adjust the cable at the lever until you have plenty of free play.Then adjust the cable at the motor until you have full engagement then readjust lever to 3/8 in play.Fine tune at the motor.It may take a few trys but you can get it.
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
SOURCE: idles revs by itself
You have an air leak in the intake system. The fuel mix is getting lean from excess air mixing with the gas. New gaskets and seals between carb and head will usually take care of the problem. Any oil stains around the base of the cylinder head? Head gasket going bad.if there is. The gasket could be the leak. Time for a valve job? Air getting sucked in past an exhaust valve or two? Have the compression checked. Find the leak(s) and you find the fix.
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Posted on Jun 07, 2009
SOURCE: Yamaha motorcycle stiff clutch
Disconnect the cable at the engine. Does the cable move freely when disconnected? If it does, remove the left side cover then check the operation of the clutch arm. Does it move freely and spring back freely? If not then clean it up. If it does move freely, remove the clutch push rod from the center case. Roll it on a flat surface. Does it roll smoothly or does it sort of lope along. If bent, replace it. If rolling smoothly then put it back in the center-case and remount the side casing. Lube the clutch cable and remount it also. The adjuster #23 should be screwed in until it is snug then back off the screw 1/4 turn.
Assuming no one has tinkered with the actual clutch and it was operating properly a few months ago or when it was put up for the winter, now is the time for an oil change. Dirty, gritty oil can stiffen a clutch big time. Drain the oil and refill with 10w40 motor oil. No synthetics or oils with "special" additives or friction reducers. No oil marked ECII. Just normal motor oil. Shell, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc., the major brands. Ride the bike for an hour or so then change the oil again. Doing this will flush most all of the grit from the gearbox. Hey, oil ain't that expensive. This should take care of the problem.
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Posted on Jul 02, 2009
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