Question about Motorcycles
Swing arm bushings will wear unevenly and this is the primary issue that you have. Check for wear at the steering head also. Both of these will cause "wobble".
Posted on May 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The Road King shocks are air adjustable via an air valve located on the right side of the bike just above the rear tire. Your Harley Davidson owner's manual will tell you what the shocks should be pressurized to depending upon the load on your bike (for instance - if you'll be carrying a passenger - the pressure should be a bit higher than it would be if you were riding solo). Don't even attempt to read the pressure unless you have the specialized hand pump that is used to pressurize the shocks. You can purchase this from Harley Davidson or via a third party online. The valve is a typical bicycle / auto air valve - but ... DO NOT attempt to pressurize it with anything but the specialized hand pump. Using anything else will risk over pressurization of your shocks and that's not good. The shocks hold a very small volume of air at relatively low pressure levels - so the hand pump is a must have.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
Using synthetic is all "pros" in my opinion. I've done a lot of research on line and talking to motorcycle mechanics, local riders, local landscapers who all use synthetics. There is a ton of scientific data and wear comparison data out their- so much that, for me, it's a no brainer to use synthetic. After hours of research I decided to use nothing but Amsoil. Make sure you specify the Motor Cycle oil as it is specifically formulated for bikes. You can usually find it locally. Harley has theirs made for them by one of the major oil refineries- they just put their name on it and mark it up tremendously. Amsoil's specs are the best I've found. I have a 2007 Dyna Super Glide with Vance Hines pipes and a 96 Harley Low Rider with a Crane cam, tricked out chrome and 2 piece 3 spoke "saber" wheels- a real beauty!
Hope this helps and good ridin'!
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Sounds like the intake manifold is leaking. The area where the leak usually happens, are those two rubber sleeves that go from the heads, (Cylinder heads) to the intake. Sometimes the clamp/s loosen up. Sometimes these rubber sleeves deteriorate, and cracks form.
This makes the engine backfire, pop, and idle fast.
The added air at the wrong time cause a backfire, when you let off the throttle. The added air causes the engine to pop, because the exhaust valve has sucked up some cold air.
The engine idles fast, because more air is being introduced, and not metered by the injection system.
(The exhaust valve thing. Exhaust valves are supposed to open, and let exhaust out right? Well there is a thing called Valve Overlap.
The Exhaust valve hasn't closed all the way yet, and the Intake valve is opening.
The 4 stroke engine, (Of which a Harley is), has these four strokes.
1.Intake Stroke. Fuel/air is sucked in.
2.Compression Stroke. The piston comes up and squeezes the fuel/air mixture.
3.Combustion Stroke. The spark plug lights the fuel/air mixture off.
4.Exhaust Stroke. The spent gases are expelled out.
Your Road King has one camshaft. There are four cam lobes on it.
Intake, Exhaust, Intake, Exhaust.
If you had the camshaft in your hand, and had the gear end facing you, look down the camshaft. You will see those egg shaped cam lobes. You will notice that No.1 cylinder Intake lobe is facing to the left.
No.1 Exhaust is facing to the right.
If you put a degree wheel on the gear end of the camshaft, and had the No.1 Exhaust lobe ramp nose facing straight up, you would see that it's about 110 degrees, before the Intake lobe ramp at .050 lift, comes into play. (The roller, of your roller lifter has raised the Exhaust valve up .050 inch) There is about 55 degrees before the Exhaust valve hasn't quite shut.
This is okay for normal running. Introduce a vacuum leak, and the surge of extra cold air, makes it pop.
Solution? I suggest checking to see if the clamps on those rubber sleeves are loose. You can also spray WD-40 towards the ends of each rubber sleeve, when the engine is idling, and see if it speeds up. Means, one or more, of those rubber sleeves has deteriorated.
Posted on Apr 25, 2009
I am having problems viewing the reply but if you have a FLHRCI then to replace the fuel filter you will need to be prepared to put some time into it.
First remove the console off the fuel tank, one nut below speedo and the phillips screw lower close to the seat. You will have a disconnect on the top left side of the fuel tank to disconnect. Then disconnect the vent tube from the tank with a gentle pull & twisting motion. Now the fun part there are ten torx T20 screws you need to remove, but first you must go buy new ones along with the gasket and fuel filter kit. DO NOT reuse the screws. Now for whatever reason they call this piece a canopy, go figure. Once you have your parts go ahead and raise the canopy slightly and twist it to the left a little. Now this can be tricky because there is a spring loaded hng to work here, be care not to over stress any thing. Then you can begin to pull the canopy and components from the tank. You will be limited by the convoluted tubes (hose) attached as to how far you can raise the canopy, if you remove one be careful as where they attach is plastic and breaks....easily sometimes, then you need a $350 part.
Next read and look at the diagrams that come with your new fuel filter to install it. Once done carefully reverse the canopy removal process and tighten the canopy bolts in cross pattern o somewhere between 18-27 in-lbs. Hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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