Question about 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom
Posted by Anonymous on
If all you replaced was the switch.. back it out a couple turns and make sure it isn't blocking the port. I've seen aftermarket come with a longer thread that blocks ports. pedal should be stiff if blocked.
if the pedal is free than it must have gotten a gulp of air. sometimes takes forever to get it to moved
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replace rear brake pads
Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: Won't start?
With just this info.Not knowing if the engine is stock or has bigger cams or high comp pistons.I would say check the starter solenoid by running jumper wire from one side to the other.then check ALL connections for corrosion and tightness
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
The only idea that i can come up with is that you dont have a good ground..or the guage was bad when you bought it..i hope this..Keith
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
To change the switch, first unplug the wires at the switch. Screw the old switch out and install the new switch into the tee connector. Do not depress either brake lever while the switch is out. Tighten the switch and reconnect the wires.
Usually you don't have to bleed any air out of the brake system but check the rear brakes for proper operaion. If the rear brake pedal goes too far down, bleed the brakes at the rear caliper. Make sure you don't run the rear brake master cylinder dry while bleeding the rear brake. Use only the approved type of brake fluid, do not mix the different types of fluid. Make sure the rear brakes are working properly before riding the bike.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
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