Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTN- FLSTNI Softail Deluxe

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Were is the diaphram on a carb - 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTN- FLSTNI Softail Deluxe

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Its on the top. usually 4 screws. cover off. the rubber is the diaphragm. its connected to the barrel or gate and needle, be careful on reassembly make sure needle goes in hole. needle is easily damaged.
don't try to clean it with anything petroleum based or it will swell up and be ruined

Posted on May 08, 2014

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1 Answer

My chainsaw carbarator is not getting gas. model# 358357230


Chainsaws have all position diaphram carbs, this is because it has to work in all positions, one side of the carb will have a pump diaphram, this is actuated by a positive and negative pulse from the piston riseing and falling ( there will either be an impulse pipe from the crankcase to the carb, or a hole in the induction block and gaskets to achieve this ) the other side of the carb will have a metering diaphram, a needle and jets, this takes the place of a float bowl on a normal carb, as the engine is cranked the pump diaphram pulses, this in turn draws fuel from the tank via the fuel hose and filter. So if there is no fuel in the line, either the filter in the tank is blocked, or the hose is trapped,split or leaking, or you have no impulse to the carb.

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1 Answer

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If this is an older edger with a 3 hp Briggs and Stratton engine, there is a diaphram in the side of the carb. Look for a plate approx 1"x1.5" with about 6 screws in it.
Remove those screws, and you'll find a paper thin rubber diaphram and a spring. Replace that diaphram, you can use the old spring. There is one spring loaded carb adjustment screw, close it all the way, and then open it 1 and1/2 turns.

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1 Answer

Can you give some chainsaw trouble shooting laws and theory..?


Most chainsaw issues are fuel related, basically you need clean fuel/oil mix in the fuel tank, a breather in the tank to stop a vacume forming,a fuel hose with a filter on the end to deliver fuel to the carb, you have an all position diaphram carb, this is for two reason, the fuel is below the carb so there is no gravity feed for the fuel, and the machine is used in many different positions which would make a standard carb flood, there will be a pulse tube to the carb, this takes the positive and negative pulse from the piston riseing and falling to the pump diaphram in the carb, the diaphram pulsates and so draws fuel up the delivery pipe, the flip side of the carb is the fuel metering side, here you have a inlet needle, and a spring loaded metering lever, if the chamber is empty atmospheric pressure pushes the diaphram down on the metering lever allowing fuel to flow in, once the chamber is full, the diaphram expands, the needle shuts, and fuel flow is stopped, within the carb body is low and high speed jets, the fuel is controlled to these via two screws, a H screw and a L screw, the L screw contols idle and revs up to half speed, and the H screw controls the maximum revs, atomised fuel is taken into the bottom of the engine where it is compressed and forced up the transfer ports and above the piston, this is why you need air tight seals on the crankshaft. the fresh charge is compressed, a spark occurs via a magnet on the flywhell passing the core of the ignition unit, and so a power stroke is delivered. So the filter on the fuel hose needs to be clean, the hose needs to be sound with no leaks, the carb diaphrams need to be in good condition, the jet screws need to be set correctly, the crank seals need to be air tight, and you need a spark at the correct time to ignitr the fresh fuel charge,

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I rebuilt the zama carb but it will not run for more than 30 or 40 seconds what did i do wrong


There are plenty of things you may have inadvertently done wrong, start first by checking fuel to the carb, replace the fuel filter in the tank, check the fuek hose up to the carb for signs of leaks, if all ok, re check the carb, on the pump side it is very importent the diaphram goes against the carb body followed by the gasket and the cover, this is because there will be two small flaps on the diaphram that act as non return valves, so must be against the carb body, there will also be a filter under the diaphram, this should be replaced, on the metering side of the carb it is very importent that the gasket goes against the carb body followed by the diaphram and cover, this is because the gasket is used as a spacer if not there the diaphram will be too close to the metering lever and it will flood, under the diaphram will be the metering lever, needle and spring, make sure this all moves smoothly, the metering lever should be level with the sides of the carb body, there will also be core plugs pressed into the base of the carb, these will be covering the jet holes, dirt can accumalate under these, however you need to pearce the plugs to remove them, and replace with new.

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1 Answer

After the engine began hunting i cleaned out the carb ,jets etc & replaced the carb diaphram & gasket correctly ,now it wont even start,there is a good spark but the plug is dry when removed...


did you replace you diaphrams or just clean them, does it have a float bowl or just diaphram? sounds like during all you cleaning you did'nt adj the tab to the needle, therefore diaphram is not opening needle which is not giving gas to the carb. tab should be flush with carb body and when you push on it needle should move to open and let fuel in, good Luck

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1 Answer

Carburettor letting to much fuel through.may be gaskets replace in wrong position


If you have dissmantled the carb and fitted new diaphrams, it is very important to re assemble in the correct order, starting with the pump side ( the diaphram without the disc in the middle ) the diaphram goes against the pump body, followed by the gasket, followed by the cover and securing screws, the metering side is the opposite, so the gasket goes against the carb body followed by the diaphram, followed by the cover and securing screws, the metering lever should be set level with either the sides of the carb body or the base of the carb body dependent on what brand of carb we are talking about, to service the carb correctly yoy should do a final pressure test with a bulb tester, the carb needle should hold a continual 2 psi pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

Cannot start my mcculloch mac160s. geting spark. i heard that a diaphram in carb could be suspect. is this common? what else should i look for?


Start with the easy things first, pull the fuel hose from the tank and replace the filter on the end, check the fuel hose up to the carb for cracks or splits, the carb has two diaphrams, a metering diaphram, which controls the amount of fuel in the carb, much like a float bowl on a normal carb, and a pump diaphram, which pulls fuel from the fuel tank, into the carb, these two items have a long service life, if they have aged or the material attacked by the fuel they can become stiff and not work very well, however i think it unlikley that the saw would not actually start, it may run bad, but it should start.

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1 Answer

Won't start. possible diaphram problem?


Chainsaw carbs are all position pump carbs, and do have diaphrams, there will be a pump diaphram, and a metering diaphram, the pump diaphram pulsates via either a hole through the cylinder and induction block, or a pipe from the crankcase, the negative and a positive pressure produced as the piston rises and falls is fed into the carb, this diaphram shoud be flat show no signs of blistering or cracks, under this diaphram is the main inlet screen, this should be clean, any doubt and it should be replaced, the metering diaphram controls the amount of fuel allowed into the metering chamber, it should also lay flat and be supple, the metal disc in the middle should be flat and not distorted, both of these components are very robust and only need replacing if they are damaged, worn or have become stiff due to fuel attacking the material.

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3 Answers

Lawnmower won't start


I am not having any luck with crossing the number you passed. I really need just the number off the engine air shroud just above the spark plug. Having said that. I understand you have a fixed speed automatic choke Briggs and Stratton engine without a primer bulb.

To gain access to the carb diaphram it is not that hard. The carb and gas tank are removable with just 2 bolts after the air-cleaner is removed. One bolt with spacer is near the gas filler opening and takes a 1/2 inch socket to remove. The other bolt is on the front bracket and is a 3/8 head. Once you have the bolts out, pull gently and carb will slide off of the intake tube.
Then tip the bottom of the carb toward you (STOP note the linkage position) and then remove the linkage.

Tank and carb off....

NOTE: The diaphram may stick to either the tank or the base of the carb so be careful when separating carb from the gas tank. Remove the 5 screws holding the carb to the tank and lift straight up making sure the diaphrm is not stuck.
The diaphram is under the carb and will have a spring on it if yours has an automatic choke. Note which side of the diaphram the spring is on. On the side of the carb there will be a rectangular plate with ONE 1/4" head on it. Remove the plate. This is where the choke attaches to the diaphram. Before removing the diaphram inspect it for holes in places where is not supposed to
have holes. If there are no holes visible on the bottom of the diaphram remove the diaphram by disonnecting the linkage inside the side plate. Again inspect the top of the diaphram for holes. If you find any tears or holes take the diaphram to your nearest lawnmower parts supply and get a replacement. They
usually cost around $6.00
If your carb has a single fuel adjustment screw turn it closed until it just starts to snug up counting exact number of turns from the original position.
Remove the fuel adjustment screw. If you loosen it until it is almost removed the whole assy will pull out with pliers while screw is still installed.
(O-ring type mating area) Clean the hole and reinstall the fuel adjustment jet.
Turn it closed until snug then adjust to original position.

NO HOLES in Diaphram or before installing NEW diaphram.
Check the fuel pick up tube for obstructions especially on the bottom screen.
You should be able to pass air though the tube orally. Noting the tube is free of obstructions install the diaphram by connecting the choke link on the side of the carb and install the side plate. Install the carb onto the gas tank and evenly tighten the mating screws. Then take the tank and carb assy to the engine and connect the carb linkage. Slide the carb onto the intake tube and make
sure the O-ring on the intake tube is inside the carb intake throat. Install the 2 mounting bolts for the tank and carb assy.

Test engine.
Install the air cleaner screw. Fill the gas tank all the way to the lip of the tank where the gas cap screws on. (This will ensure that the diaphram has gas in it) It should start within 2 or 3 pulls.
If it runs... your almost done.
AIR CLEANER
Take the air cleaner foam and wash it with gas until clean. Then oil the filter with oil gently squeezing it to make sure oil is evenly distributed.
Once oil is evenly distributed SQUEEZE out all excess oil by squeezing the foam as tightly as you can. Then install the foam and air cleaner.

Task complete.
Thanks for using FixYa

Kelly

Apr 10, 2010 | Yard Machines 24a 021h700 4.5 Horsepower...

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