Yesterday, i noticed my speedo was dead when i was driving down the road. I tried speeding up and it stayed dead, but when i started decelerating is started working again. It now works on and off when going down the road.
Anyone else seen this? Where are the cables located on the bike so i can check for a loose connection?
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LSI 4cylinder or 3cylinder? engine. , all answer USA cars.
all answers now, are 3cylinder
did the odometer quiet too?
and in USA< connect any scan tool and see if VSS died.
the usa 96, 1.0L 3cyl has the VSS sensor in the speedo
and when the cable snaps, Speedo to transaxle flex drive cable.
the speed goes dead
the odometer goes dead
and Vss goes dead.
easy huh, if all 3 are dead.
but if speedo ONLY goes dead, that means ITS dead.
vss= veh.speed sensor. or MPH sensor.
If the speedo and odometer are both dead, you should have shifting problems and a check engine light. The speed sensor in the transmission has probably died.
If the speedo does not work but the odometer does, chances are the problem is in the speedometer head.
does the speed change at all? does the speedometer if you noticed is working? if the speedo is not working then the problem is your speed sensor on the gear box is not working and that is the reason the automatic transmission stayed on safe mode. renew the speedo and will work ok.
The following drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to "sit" overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.
. Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
Try holding your key fob button down for about 20 seconds. This may resync the alarm. If that doesn't work, it's most likely in the speedo. You can try cleaning the speed sensor for the speedo. It is magnetic and picks up metal shavings which short it out. Pull it out of the trans and wipe off the shavings.
First off, I have a 1987 Supra non-turbo and I have seen a similar problem on my car. Probably one part of the two part speedo cable has broken, or the speed sensor has failed. The speedo cable turns a speed sensor which is part of the speedo gage cluster. The signal right now from the speed sensor to the computer is probably zero so the PCM thinks the car is stopped. The PCM has a limit on how high the engine will rev while the car is not moving. This is also the "limp home mode" max rpm in case the speed sensor fails. So if you fix your speedo/speed sensor, I think the acceleration problem will go away. The cable is in two parts--a "lower cable" which goes from the tranny to a junction and an "upper cable" which goes from the junction to the speedo. You will need to determine which cable is broken or if the speed sensor itself has a broken part.
To check the cable, find the junction under the car on the passengers side and disconnect it. The cable frequently breaks right at this spot. You will be able to turn the upper speedo cable by hand and have a partner listen/look for results on the speedo cluster. If the cable checks out, you may have to pull the instrument cluster to check what is wrong with the speed sensor.
Secondly, the flashing O/D light is signaling you that there is a trouble code waiting (probably for the transmission which also needs a speed signal). You can obtain trouble codes from the PCM via the diagnostic connector in the engine compartment. The connector is on the driver's side of the compartment just behind the fuse box. It is labeled "diagnostics". Using a paper clip or a hair pin and a jumper wire, connect the terminals "T" and "E1". (there is a guide to the terminals on the inside of the plastic flip cover.) Turn the ignition to on but do not start the car. The check engine light will start flashing two digit codes. (Four flashes followed by two flashes=Code 42= speed sensor signal lost.) There will be a pause then the next code. At the end of the codes, it will start repeating the sequence of codes again until you turn off the ignition. If there are no codes, the check engine light will just flash continously once every second. Don't forget to remove the diagnostic jumper before starting or driving the car.
I don't know what is causing this problem, but I know phil140701's answer is completely wrong on two counts. First, 740 Volvos starting at least in 1986 have electronic speedometers and no cable. There is an electronic sensor on the differential which sends a signal to the speedometer cluster. Second, if it were strictly mechanical with a cable then the voltage regulator could have no effect on it at all.