Question about Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic Motorcycles
Brand new battery installed , after driving 35 miles notice volt meter drop to 8 , shut bike off would not restart ,would voltage regulater be bad
Posted by Anonymous on
This depends a lot on yeqr of bike, Could be regulator but did it do this before battery was replaced is a good thing to know etc.
Posted on Nov 26, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: bad battery
Don't rely on on whether the bike will start at a gas station to determine if the charging system is working. Get the multimeter out and do a proper test. Should be getting about 14.5 volts @ around 3K RPM. It's too easy of a test to to just skip. If it is charging then start looking for something else. Was the new battery properly charged to begin with? Loose battery connection? I suppose the GPS could be too much but you said that it was dying last november, so I would suspect something else. P.S. you need a properly charged battery to get an accurate reading for the charging test.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
i would be looking at the voltage regulator,if the regulator is faulty the alternator will not be replacing the voltage that the bike needs to keep running
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
under the seat there is a reset button that taked a metal prong thingie (dont know whent it's called) you can use a paper clip - just jump the two terminals and try to start it,, doesnt happen all the time but it does happen.
Posted on Jul 23, 2010
SOURCE: After leaving the last gas
Ok, let's check the charging system. The battery is easy. Take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts store. Ask them to load test the battery for you. If the battery is over two years old, it could need replacing.
Once you're sure the battery is good and it is FULLY CHARGED, we can test the rest of the system. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the system. With the battery back in the bike, connect the DVOM across the battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal of the battery, black meter lead to the negative. Put the meter's function selector switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLTS or greater. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5 - 15.0 volts.
Now, to test the stator, follow the wires from your regulator down to where it goes into the engine cases. Disconnect the connector and look into the engine side of it. You'll see two metal contacts down in there. Set you meter's function selector to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each one of the metal contacts down in the engine side of the connector with a meter probe. It makes not difference since we're measuring AC voltage at this point. The meter should read at least 30 volts.
Now, if the alternator (stator test) does not put out at least thirty volts, the stator is bad and needs to be replaced. If the alternator does check good but not enough voltage at the battery, your regulator may be the culprit. Make sure all connections are clean and tight and that the body of the regulator is grounded good. Recheck the test at the battery. If it still fails, replace the regulator.
Now, I've seen may problems such as your's that are intermittant. In other words, the problem is here on minute and gone the next. I fought that on one bike for over a year until we finally replaced the entire charging system and fixed it. If your bike proves to be doing that, you may wish to consider that option. Fix the thing and be done with it. I wouldn't buy the rotor, just the stator and the regulator.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
Testimonial: "right on with the test procedure. Battery didn't show it was charging. While the stator test showed 30vac, an ohm test showed it was grounded. Thanks "
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