Question about Honda F6 C Valkyrie Motorcycles
Remove and disassemble the carburetors, clean the carburetor body, replace the main jets and the pilot jets with new parts, being careful not to damage the brass when reinstalling the new parts. Reassemble the carburetors and reinstall on the bike. Drain the fuel tank, inspect the fuel tank for rust or sediment, seal with Red-Kote or Caswell Epoxy if necessary. Remove the petcock, disassemble and clean all parts of the petcock, buy a rebuild kit if the vacuum diaphragm is dried or damaged. reinstall the petcock and fill the fuel tank with premium fuel. Clean or replace the spark plugs, and check that compression is within specifications on each cylinder. Synchronize the carburetors. Change the oil, drain and refill the cooling system, flush the brake system with fresh Dot4 fluid. Check the exhaust system for possible obstructions (rodent nests). Check the air in the tires. Each of these steps is essential for safe and proper performance of your motorcycle, especially after sitting for as long as 3 years.
Posted on May 07, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
sounds like the main jets are partly pluged, you must remve all brass jets and seats including needle jet and its slide soak in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air only.. hold up to bright light to verify if all are clean. jim
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
SOURCE: bike won't start
Check compression ratio and valves clearance.The carbs leak any fuel from their o-rings.Spray through the air box with a carb cleaner spray while pressing start button but little bit at a time.Don't twist the throttle too much and always use choke until she fires up for good.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
What is the compression on the cylinder compared to the other cylinders? It should be within 10%. Some causes can be - as you suggested - the valve stem seals. Also, the sleeve could be rusted, as the valves could have been open on that cylinder. Generally speaking, on a 4-cylinder motor 1 cylinder has both its valves closed, 1 has both open, 1 has an inlet valve open and one has an exhaust valve open at any given time. Another possibility is that the valve could be sticky - try Wynn's Valve Ease or a similar product.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
Synchronizing and balancing the carbs will be a nightmare. I would make a diagram of what hoses attach where and mark each hose. If you remove any adjusting screws or jets, write down the number of turns it takes for removal and than put each one back the same number of turns. Before removing the carbs, drain them (assuming there is anything in them). Now get a spray can of Berrymans carb cleaner (or another brand), and fill the float bowls full of cleaner by disconnecting the fuel lines and spraying into each fuel line until the level in the line is reaching the top of the float bowl. Now wait for a couple of days while the cleaner softens the dried varnish residue in the carbs. Now remove the carbs as a set then dis-assemble and clean with a couple more cans of cleaner.
Getting the pilot jets cleaned out is the big trick. If it will not idle, the pilot jet is problem.
Below is a diagram of your carb. The same diagram with the entire carb assembly AND your entire bike can be found at Babbitt's.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
You need to disassemble the carburetors and soak in cleaner for awhile, then blow everything out with compressed air. Did you get rid of the original fuel, clean the tank and put in fresh fuel?
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
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