Question about 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Drain the fuel either by siphening or removing the cross over tube at the front of the tank and letting it drain that way or just block off those cross over lines and leave the fule in the tank for removal.
0) remove seat
1) drain fuel
2) undo cross over line (bottom front of gas tank.
3) shut off pet **** and remove fuel line from pet ****.
4)there should only be 2 bolts holding the tank on, one at the top front of the tank and one at the back of the tank.
All in all a pretty easy (but possibloy messy) job.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
Turn the Bike on and the Radio off and then follow the buttons on the screen. Most people think you have to do it while it is running and this does not work
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Disconnect battery , remove the outer primary case, pull back the lock tab on the starter jackshaft, unbolt the retainer screw, then remove the two starter bolts from the right side, sometimes you need to loosen the oil tank mounts to get at these, slip the starter and coupler out as a unit, replace the coupler and jackshaft the same way they came out when the new starter goes in, install bolts , retighten the jackshaft bolt and bend over the retainer, install and fill primary case, connect battery thats it buddy
Posted on Oct 12, 2009
camplate check valve sticking,good time for an upgrade SEcamplate,hydraulic camchain tensioners,high volume oil pump,comes as complete kit for about $420. add another $150 for adjustable pushrods and never worry about it again,or replace the existing component youd save maybe $180 bucks but youll be back
thats why they changed the camplate and tensioners in 07, I just did the complete conversion on an 02 heritage it costed with labor about 1100 in your case your looking at 7 to 800 dollars just to get you going for another 30 or 40,000 miles or less and then do it again Im for a 1 time fix myself
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
To adjust the clutch, first find the clutch cable adjuster. It should be somewhere along the downtube of the frame in front of the engine. Slide the rubber bellows cover either up or down to expose the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards shortening the cable as much as possible.
Remove the Derby cover from the primary cover. In the middle of the clutch assembly is an adjuster bolt and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjust inwards until you feel a resistance. Don't not force the adjuster, go inwards until you feel the resistance of the throwout bearing on the other side. Try it a couple of times until you get the feel of it. Go inwards until you feel the resistance and then come back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the lock nut down and replace the derby cover.
Then go back to the cable aduster and and adjust the cable adjuster out until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the lever. Lock that lock nut down and reposition the bellows cover.
Posted on Jul 21, 2010
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