Question about Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim Motorcycles

1 Answer

Only runs 3 cylinders

Motor seems to run smooth but the 4th cylinder is not firing. Exhaust cool to touch. We have spark and appears to be getting fuel

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 43,010 Answers

Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
1985 xj700 runs on 2 cylinders
Inner cylinders don fire
Yamaha XJ700N Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-xj-owners-manuals

Posted on Jun 27, 2016

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
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SOURCE: 1979 suski 750,bike runs on 2 left side cylinders,

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

With the indulgence of craigjamesbt...

A few additional ideas to consider:

  • it would be an electrical/ignition issue if 1 & 4 or 2 & 3 will not fire but not 3 & 4;
  • almost always, raw fuel on exhaust indicates a flooded engine. A flooded engine would most likely be a carb issue;
  • best way to determine if it is an engine concern is to do a compression test;
  • a way to test the right carb pair is to deliberately starve them of fuel by temporarily plugging/blocking the inlet port/seat with rubber similar in appearance as to those used for glue gun, not installing the needle and float. Assemble the carb and install. Start the bike and use/spray carb cleaner on the right side carb. Note if 3 & 4 will fire even intermittently.
Would appreciate a postback on results/updates on any developments.

Good luck and thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

pippall
  • 1486 Answers

SOURCE: number 1 cylinder not firing. it has spark to the

Valve burnt out.Check comprsestion on that cylinder first.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 850 Answers

SOURCE: Back firing and doesn't fire on on cylinder until warm

Typical of xv,s itcould be a fuel blockage or damaged diaghram in carb! check all hoses!

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: 1982 XJ 650 maxim cylinder 2 & 4 won't run

Are you saying that 2 & 4 got gas with external tank but not with gas tank? If so something else has happened ,if gas is getting to the carb it cannot by-pass 2 to get to 1. Take the tank back off ,connect to external, again. See what happens.

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

wayneman01
  • 301 Answers

SOURCE: honda 1986 vf400f nc13 engine front two cylingers not firing help

If the spark appears to be weak only for the two front cylinders, then I would suggest checking the electrical connections for the ignition coils.
If the spark for the other two cylinders looks the same (yellow), then I'd suggest checking the compression on the non-functioning cylinders. A compression reading of 140~160PSI is what you're looking for. Low compression indicates internal engine damage - or could be from something relatively simple - like insufficient valve tappet clearance.

If the bike has been sitting for a long period of time, it could be that the carburetors are plugged up with fuel varnish. This can cause some cylinders to not run. A complete carb disassembly and clean-out will be needed.

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks for that feed back . there is plenty of fuel and compression is non existant on front left and 80 psi on front right,I suspect cam wear????"

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If you have spark and compression and it not firing then you must not have fuel. the fuel is fed from the demand regulator thru the intake independent for each cylinder. Check the intake and make sure that the NG/LP pin is all the way to the NG side.

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1 Answer

Cylinder


It takes all 4 ingredients to fire a cylinder - Air, Fuel, Spark, and Timing. If you only have one cylinder misfiring, it should be a relatively easy diagnosis and fix. You dont mention which cylinder, so I will pick one - #2. Let's start with Spark. First, remove the spark plug in #2 cylinder. Examine the threaded end. Is it wet and/or smell like fuel? If so, chances are the misfire is caused by a weak/absent spark. To confirm, swap it with a known good cylinder - example #3 cylinder. Start it and let it run for a couple of minutes. If cylinder #3 misfires, then you have found the culprit - bad spark plug. If the misfire didn't move - still on Cylinder #2, then swap out the spark plug wire (both ends). Start and run for a couple of minutes. Again, if it appears on Cylinder #3 - the plug wire is the culprit. If the cylinder #2 is still misfiring, get a new distributor and rotor cap - one of those is your problem.
Now, when you first pulled the plug from Cylinder #2, if it wasn't wet or smelled of fuel, chances are Spark is not the issue. Was the plug dry and/or ashy? Possible cause is no fuel reaching the combustion chamber (cylinder). Using an automotive stethoscope, listen to the fuel injector for cylinder #2 while the motor is running. Should hear a regular and rhythmic ticking sound. Like a fast clock. (Use a long handled screwdriver touching one end to your ear and the other to the top of the injector if you dont have a stethoscope). No clicking or irregular clicking means fuel injector is not working (no sound) or is not working properly. Like searching for the Spark problem, swap the injector in #2 cylinder with #3. Start and run. If the problem moved to #3, that injector is the culprit. If it stayed on #2, it is likely your wiring to that injector - check the whole harness for loose connections or swelled with oil wires/connectors. Keep pecking away at the fuel delivery system for that cylinder. Stay looking for things that affect only that cylinder.
When you pulled the plug, was it fairly normal looking? Then this misfire code might only be a timing problem. It is likely not a timing problem in your case, because timing affects all cylinders, but I thought I would just mention it since Timing is an important part of combustion. Also, if timing were a culprit here, another symptom would usually appear signifying the Camshaft Positon Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor was/is failed, or it is possible for the timing belt/chain to skip a knurl on a sproket and throw the timing off, but like I said, it would almost always cause multiple/random misfires or a no-start/no-run symptom.
And finally, when you pulled the plug earlier, if it was an oily sticky mess, then the culprit might be Air - or compression/lack of compression. Lets hope not, because when Air is the cause of a misfire, it is usually an expensive fix. Need to perform a compression test. If you have little or no compression in the cylinder, it is likely a bad head gasket or a stuck/sticky/broken/chipped valve (exhaust or intake). Any of these things are bad news and expensive to fix in a shop. Also bad news and time consuming and difficult task for a shade tree mechanic.
Here is a chart of pictures of various spark plug conditions. It can help diagnose all kinds of troubles in engines. Good luck!
edc57e39-c387-44d7-a59f-d5affdb7d7d0.jpg

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This is a simple engine to work on. Check for compression in the dead cylinder. If low or none, you found your problem....likely burnt exhaust valve.
If compression good, check injector for fuel spay or fuel delivery head for fuel delivery. With engine idling, crack each line nut at the fuel distributor and see if any fuel squirts out.

If so, check spark delivery by pulling lead to dead cylinder and install used/spare spark plug into plug lead. lay this against engine and run engine watching for spark at plug tip. Do not touch the plug or wire while engine running.

If no spark, check distributor cap for cracks inside. The electronics are primative on these so the above should get you close to the reason cylinder is not firing.

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I have a 1994 Chevy s10 truck with a 4.3 liter - vin W. The problem Im having is number 2 cylinder and number 3 cylinder dont seem to be firing properly. Changed plug,wires,cap and rotor. Has spark, and...


probably the injectors are not working
run the fault codes or have the injectors for those cylinders checked
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Verify the cylinder is not firing by measuring the temperature on the exhaust right out of the cylinder. If it is not firing the tempature will be much cooler than the front cylinder. Once you have determined the rear cylinder is not firing then you need to perform a compression test on the rear cylinder. If it is not with in specifications, you may have broken rings, burned valves or hole in piston. Until you run compression test you will not know which way to go.

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Could be a loose connection at the plug or at the coils. Look at in the dark and see if you see any spark off.

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Engine starts, runs rough (like cylinder missing), after a minute will run smooth a few seconds, then back to rough idle. new gas, new oil, gas filter seems clear. What else to check?


Establish which is the 'lazy' cylinder (touch the exhaust pipe header with a WET finger). There will be a marked difference in temperature. Change the plug on the 'lazy' side. If no better, check for a good spark - with engine running on the good cylinder, connect the other plug lead to a spare plug and grund the plug body. A weak/internittant spark will be readily apparant.

If there is a spark problem, replace the coil on the dud side. If not, check for equal compresion on both cylinders.

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My 91 honda accord is running on 3 cylinders. should I just replace the motor?


If it's running on 3 cylinder's due to bad compression on the 4th cylinder yes, if not repair.Could be just as easy as a spark plug wire.

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1 Answer

Still performance problems. ISOLATED cylinder(s)


Since you are getting sparks to all the plugs thn the problem could be tht of fuel to those two cylinders 2 & 3.
What was the condition of the spark plugs in those two cylinders? ( 2 & 3 ), were they wet or dry?
Try te following,
Swap the spark plugs form the firing cylinders and fit them to the cylinder 2 & 3.
Try to block up the air intake side of those two cylinder carburator and start the bike's engine see if they would fire, if they do fire thn theres a problem to those two carburators, fuel is not going into the combustion chamber, the problem could be float level , or the jets may need to be blown with compressed air.
Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

It seems like the injector is having problems one of the cylenders is not firing and is has a los of power and seems to run rough what could be wrong


Look you are looking at a number of things when a Cylinder, it can be electrical,1 like the spark plug can be not working, 2 the distributor cap if the car has one, 3 The spark plug wire that runs from the distributor to the spark plug that spouse not to work, 4 The fuel distributor if the car has mechanical fuel injection,5 The injector it self, is a way to diagnose it by first identify which Cylinder is not firing, also can be a burn intake or exhaust valve, to find out that you need a compression test at that not working cylinder. 2A
NOW if Your car is electronic fuel injection it can be a defective injector or the computer, You can try by taping on that injector wile motor idles, good luck

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