Question about 2005 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer
Posted by Anonymous on
Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
YZF R1 Idle problem
Yamaha YZFR1W 2007 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha YZFR1Y Owner Manual
Posted on Nov 11, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is just a guese ive never worked on a R1 but most bikes are similar with chains.
Firstly to loosen the axel and the chain tightners and pull the wheel as far foward as you can. then to find the master link in the chain its a funny looking link with a clip on it, it might not have one if its a compressed link chain, but for this sake lets hope you have it, when you find it use some needle nose pliars and take the clip off and then pull the link outwards it will come off like a washer and push the other side out, theres the chain broken so it can come off, its its a new chain your installing you could cut the old chain off with a hack saw or grind on one of the links. as long as the new chain comes as one long peice not a circle with no master link.
to get the sprocket off the front find where the chain goes too and un bolt the cover for it it should not be water tight. then the sprocket will have a Circlip or a bolt on it, if its a circlip get a flat screw driver in the space and turn or use the right tool. if its a bolt nock it in gear and try to undo it with a ratchet if it just turns the engine you will need to undo the timing plug on one side of the engine and put a ratchet on the flywheel while un bolting the sprocket you could also do this while the chain is on the bike and put the rear brakes on and un bolt the sprocket, this will stretch the chain but your changing it anyway.
new sprocket is same way just slide it on and clip or bolt get your chain all the way around all sprockets and the master link will probly be an O-Ring chain, if so you need some vice grips and a 8 or 10mm nut or a 1/4 american nut and you put the rubbers on either side and the plate
and put the nut over the link heads and clamp down til the clip slots are showing do this to both sides of the link. then put your clip on with needle nose pliars and pull the wheel back with the chain tensioners and tighten your axel
you want a bit of play with your chain so it can stretch when you sit on the bike, you will need to tighen it for a few hundred miles dayly while the chain stretchs and wears in.
if you need any more assistance email me ( Skuly@hotmail.com )
Posted on Feb 16, 2010
Check this ilustration out
Shoild be where a hose from the radiator, goe into the engine, just behind a small cover, which will require a new gasket as well.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
If you havent gone to synthetic oil yet then it is almost pointless to do so now. Your best bet is to just keep up on regular oil changes and filter changes with a good quality oil.
Posted on Oct 10, 2010
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