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Re: Engine coolant not circulating
Hi mate if you gerabox oil is rising this means your water pump seal has gone you can only see the water circulating when you rev it with the cap off also take the water pump cover off and see if the propellor spins with then engine running but dont run it too long as you will seize the engine if it doesnt spin you need to replace the water pump shaft as it could be broken or worn also make sure there is no air in the system good luck
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Re: Engine coolant not circulating
No thermostat sound like you have a ubstruction somewhere make sure the oil is not milky if it is you need to replace you impellar seal behinde the blade make sure your radiator grates are clean with a preasure washer
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If the bearing failed, it will howl or be noisy. If the pump seal failed, it will be leaking coolant from behind the pulley- through the "weep" hole at the bottom of the pump. If the impellers on the pump that push water through are worn down, it won't leak or be noisy, but your coolant circulation will be impaired, and maybe critically impaired if worn down severely - some pumps use plastic impellers that wear quicker than metal ones. One way to check is with radiator cap off the warm engine (so the thermostat is open and coolant will flow from engine through the top hose into the radiator) and look inside the radiator to see if coolant is flowing in through the top hose. If unsure, squeeze the top hose as tight as you can to stop flow through hose, then release. You may feel the surge of coolant behind your hand as you release hose and you should see the coolant in the radiator moving. If still unsure, have a tech or mechanic check for coolant circulation. Be very careful opening radiator cap on a warm engine. Turn engine off first. You may want to use a heavy rag on top of cap. Turn cap to first release and wait until any steam or pressure is gone. If coolant is hot it may scald you, and it may be under enough pressure that turning cap to first release will cause hot coolant to start coming out the radiator filler neck where cap sits. When pressure is gone go ahead and remove cap (turn some more to second release-then remove cap). With cap off, start engine and check circulation. Good luck.
the coolant is probably not circulating because either the water pump impellers are worn or broken off of the shaft,the rad maybe plugged or possibly the thermostat has seized closed causing a restriction in the system.the coolant blows back because its not circulating and over heating and will escape were it can.
To see if it is your water pump - remove the radiator cap and start your vehicle while it is cold. the water should not circulate due to the thermostat being closed. When it is warm, the coolant should be seen to ciculate as viewed through the rad cap opening. (be sure there is lots of coolant - of course) Also if there is no thermostat - the water will circulate after the engine is started wheather hot or cold if the water pump is working. You say it is a new thermostat so I assume it is not stuck closed.
Sometimes a water pump will fail
internally due to severe corrosion wearing away the impeller blades, or
the impeller comes loose on the shaft, or the shaft itself may break
from metal fatigue (caused by flexing due to an out-of-balance fan).
Many late model vehicles (Chrysler in
particular) have plastic impellers to improve cooling efficiency and to
reduce cavitation (drag). But the plastic can wear down quickly if the
coolant is dirty and contains abrasives. The pump may not leak, but it
may not circulate enough coolant through the engine to keep the engine
at normal operating temperature.
One way to test for a bad water pump is to squeeze the upper radiator
hose when the engine is hot and idling. Careful, because teh hose willb
e HOT! If you do not feel much coolant circulating through the hose
when you rev the engine, the pump may be bad. The other cause might be a
bad thermostat that is not opening properly (remove and inspect the
thermostat), or a clogged radiator.
If you haven't replaced your water pump, chances are it could be the original part (OEM). This use a composite material impeller similar to hard plastic. They are prone to cracking at the shaft connection for the pulley and doesn't spin with the engine. Replace it with an aftermarket part which have metal impellers. I'd advice to invest on replacing your timing belt at this time because the water pump is behind the belt. Also keep in mind to use G12 only coolant (VW red coolant), these are phosphate free keeping the system cleaner.
Your having a cooling problem which your after run coolant pump couldn't handle requiring the main fan to gradually lower the temp down. While this is happening in the background your after run pump is circulating the coolant around the hot engine block preventing the coolant from getting cooked since the main h20 pump is not operating.
Have you replaced your original water pump that uses a plastic impeller to an aftermarket metal unit? This could be your problem, the plastic impeller cracks where it is bonded to the shaft that connects to the pulley. It would spin but not enough to circulate the liquid even at high rpm's.
Could be the water pump or the serpentine belt is slipping on the water pump pulley. Is the radiator coolant hot? If it is, the coolant is not circulating through the block and heater core. I am assuming you see and hear no leaks and you have installed the thermostat in the correct direction to match the coolant flow.You should be able to squeeze the radiator hose before the thermostat and feel it expand when you have the engine running. You might be able to splice a hose with a T connection and valve to see the flow. Otherwise you would have to take out the pump and check the impeller.